Replacing HG, time to do some other mods?
#16
Race Car
I know I generally do things a little differently, but if I were going to recommend a path for someone else that I would expect great reliability I would suggest
3" exhaust
o-ring head using widefire
stock studs
new wg (good brand)
turbo would depend on whether you want to fab something or buy direct fit. I'd either look at t a gt30r (fabbed and change DP) or a 50 trim dbb using an 8 cm hs I believe Pauer tuning has a stocked item.
M-tune with injectors. I know Josh is a new guy on the block with this but I have experienced great drivability and performance as well as others have.
New clutch for sure IMO. Southbend is a great item.
If the budget allows I'd look at some headwork and a cam.
I am pretty maxxed out right now, unless I run crazy boost, and I can see that the head and cam become a bottleneck around 340 hp. Over that the boost to HP ratio starts to diminish.
3" exhaust
o-ring head using widefire
stock studs
new wg (good brand)
turbo would depend on whether you want to fab something or buy direct fit. I'd either look at t a gt30r (fabbed and change DP) or a 50 trim dbb using an 8 cm hs I believe Pauer tuning has a stocked item.
M-tune with injectors. I know Josh is a new guy on the block with this but I have experienced great drivability and performance as well as others have.
New clutch for sure IMO. Southbend is a great item.
If the budget allows I'd look at some headwork and a cam.
I am pretty maxxed out right now, unless I run crazy boost, and I can see that the head and cam become a bottleneck around 340 hp. Over that the boost to HP ratio starts to diminish.
#17
my turbo is worn and it makes sense to replace it while doing the head gasket. Vitesse might be a good option, how much can I expect from stage 3 in terms of reliable hp with 99RON fuel?
EDIT: What about the Precision 55mm dual BB from SFR?
EDIT: What about the Precision 55mm dual BB from SFR?
#18
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the more hosepower you put out the less reliable your engine will be. but depends on how you drive.
if you have around 350 rwhp and it's street driven and sees low boost and now and then high boost, it'll be reliable, if you drive with your foot to the floor and see full boost on every chance you get, don't expect your engine to last as long.
Your engine is as strong as the weakest part.
if you have around 350 rwhp and it's street driven and sees low boost and now and then high boost, it'll be reliable, if you drive with your foot to the floor and see full boost on every chance you get, don't expect your engine to last as long.
Your engine is as strong as the weakest part.
#19
RL Community Team
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Those cylinders don't look so great. I'd recommend dropping the crossmember to change your rod bearings, change or reinforce your oil pickup tube, and install an extra baffle in the oil pan. IMHO these things are more important than anything else if it's to be tracked.
When you have the crossmember off, you might want to consider the Lindsey 3-piece crossmember for future rod bearing changes. It's not essential, but I've been told you will be 100% in love with it the next time you need to drop the pan.
When you have the crossmember off, you might want to consider the Lindsey 3-piece crossmember for future rod bearing changes. It's not essential, but I've been told you will be 100% in love with it the next time you need to drop the pan.
#20
Looking at the expenses and the likely drop in reliability, I'm starting to consider rebuilding my 26-6 to a 26-8 and just add a MAF kit.
BTW, whats wrong with the cylinders? To my untrained eye they look good.
BTW, whats wrong with the cylinders? To my untrained eye they look good.
#21
RL Community Team
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Well, they're scratched. If the scratches aren't deep enough to catch a fingernail, it's OK, but still represent instances of oiling problems at the rings. It could be because of oil supply (starvation), pressure (too hot and thin), or something else. I'm no expert, I just know enough to see that the engine needs some improvement to survive the flogging it's getting.