+++++1

I pulled 12-14 with small vacuum leaks. In the neighborhood of 18 when they were fixed. The NB will never give you useful information the way a WB will. Go with an Innovative or Zeitronix, IMO.

 

sort of -

A Narrow Band is useless as a tuning tool........

However a NB can be useful to identify new problems/change. So if you had a spot on tune and all working well for a period of time you start to be able to predict the NB bahavior. Then all of a sudden the typical NB characteristics change you have a tip off something is not working well or changed.

That is really the only effective use for a NB I can see

 

i guess i will be looking for vacuum leaks.... the car idles fine and all vacuum powered components work...
we are talking about PSI right? -18psi is norm?

the car is running rich and gets bad MPG, it runs like *** too.... it all fits with vac leak....

we will see what i find

 

ok, i noticed something when i was coming home from work this morning..... i have a hks, evc-s EBC and the lowest the PSI goes on the gauge is -9.9 and it sits at 6-8... ?

 

It's not ENTIRELY common to measure vacuum in psi... it's more commonly in psi for the BOOST part of a gauge, and inches of mercury for the vacuum part.

If your gauge really DOES read vacuum in psi, then that number seems reasonable. -If it says "inHg" or "inches mercury" in the vacuum section, then that number is a problem.

~18psi vacuum isn't the norm, ~18inHg vacuum is the norm. I haven't seen where you confirmed that you'd double-checked the units of measurement indicated in the vacuum section of your gauge (if it's a combined boost/vacuum gauge, that is...)

Also, A/C to be switched off for any vacuum measurements... you'll see that turning it on lowers the vacuum.

Keith

 

the gauge is digital and i said more than once that it WAS in PSI....

it is in PSI

so i guess im looking for a different problem..... i replaced all vac lines when i rebuilt the head and did the head gasket and other stuff.....

 

the popping on decel is because your tps isnt adjusted correctly, should cut fuel off when not on the throttle. if original, may need popped open and cleaned and also your throttle body resealed because its leaking boost into the tps. mine was bad enough it actually blew off the cover to the tps.

 

FWIW, my Zeitronix Zt-2 "says" PSI all the time, boost or vacuum, but it displays values in inHg when the manifold pressure goes negative. I can't speak for the functionality of any other digital boost gauge, but it's worth looking into the possibility that your gauge just says psi when on vacuum but means inHg

 

You sure its not your MAF? Running rich might be an indication of a poorly tuned maf addition. Not to mention all your other parts.

 

My tps is new and is adjusted correctly.

My EBC WIll only display a single digit when negative and only displays in PSI

I have cleaned my MAF and I looks good but it's been running this way ever since I bought it and fixed it....

I am thinking about the M-tune...

 

Double check your connections, and your grounds. Examine the sensors at the DME as you could have iffy wiring. I can't count how many times a ground problem is found or installation screw up is discovered.
Since you purchased the car used, you have no idea what has been done; leaving the burden of discovering the issues on you.

Check the recent videos posted recently and you'll get a idea how it should run and operate when it's sorted out.

 

what videos are you talking about John?

 

I understand you made it to the track. How did the car feel?

Videos are Here
Second page.

 

Car ran great. Clutch was slipping at 6psi boost and it was still was one of the fastest cars out there. (Fixed now) I am running it without the ebc actuating. I want to drive the car a few miles to let the motor brake in before I wake it up.

Thanks again John for all of your help.

Guys! he spent a ton of time with me trying to figure out my problem and would not even let me pay him.
John, I still think that I owe you something..