¤!"# rear shocks
#1
Drifting
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Espoo, Finland
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¤!"# rear shocks
How do you get them out?!? They're held by two bolts, right? Upper one in the rear wheel well, and the lower one in trailing arm? Seems they're tightened up real good in my car... do I just force it or is there a special trick?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
On the upper mount, loosen the nut on the inboard side instead of trying to break free the entire length of a semi-frozen bolt. As far as the bottom goes, can you say "leverage".
#4
Drifting
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Cool. Basically, I just want to play around with the shock adjustement (yellow konis), so all I really need to do is to get the bottom bolt out, correct? And it really is that 22mm sized one? (can't imagine it being anything else, but ...)
#5
Burning Brakes
Sami you sneaky sob, what are you doing..
Or is your cars butt too tight.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
So you are loosening konis, right?!
Or is your cars butt too tight.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
So you are loosening konis, right?!
#6
Drifting
I used a jack to help loosen the lower shock bolts (and crankshaft bolt ). Just make sure you keep in mind which way is to loosen the bolt, and which way is to tighten. And I think you might want to take the whole shock off the car to adjust it, b/c the shock requires a good amount of pressure to bottom it out before you can tune it...
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#8
Drifting
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Sami951:
<strong>"lefty loosy, righty tighty" ...
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yup, but sometimes that's hard to remember when you're laying on cold, wet concrete <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
<strong>"lefty loosy, righty tighty" ...
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yup, but sometimes that's hard to remember when you're laying on cold, wet concrete <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
#9
Race Director
"lefty loosy, righty tighty" ... "
That's also only true if you're looking at the bolt head. But what if the bolt is facing away from you or if you're looking at the side? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
I prefer the 'right-hand rule'. Learned this from some basic physics classes (electromagnetism) in high-school. Imagine wrapping your right hand around the bolt. Point your thumb in the direction you want the bolt to move. Your fingers wrap will point in the direction you want to twist the bolt.
Of course, if you have a reverse-thread bolt, you can use the 'left-hand rule'.. heh, heh...
That's also only true if you're looking at the bolt head. But what if the bolt is facing away from you or if you're looking at the side? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
I prefer the 'right-hand rule'. Learned this from some basic physics classes (electromagnetism) in high-school. Imagine wrapping your right hand around the bolt. Point your thumb in the direction you want the bolt to move. Your fingers wrap will point in the direction you want to twist the bolt.
Of course, if you have a reverse-thread bolt, you can use the 'left-hand rule'.. heh, heh...
#11
Former Vendor
Hi!
1.Use some lubricant meant for frozen bolts,like WD-40 or CRC.A lot of it,let it soak for a long time.
2.Yes,they're metric,can't remember now the size.
3.You migh have to use some extension to get enough momentum...steel bolts tend to stick hard with aluminium.Upper ones are easier but you don't necessarily need to take them off to adjust those Konis.
I needed 1(one) meter of steel tube added to my socket wrench to open the lower bolts...with a loud bang...nothing was broken,they're just tight.Just be sure that tools DON'T slip!
Pete
PS.Mine are set F:75% & R:50% from max.This was suggested setting for street use.For track rears needed to be stiffer.See eg. Jim Pasha's article.
1.Use some lubricant meant for frozen bolts,like WD-40 or CRC.A lot of it,let it soak for a long time.
2.Yes,they're metric,can't remember now the size.
3.You migh have to use some extension to get enough momentum...steel bolts tend to stick hard with aluminium.Upper ones are easier but you don't necessarily need to take them off to adjust those Konis.
I needed 1(one) meter of steel tube added to my socket wrench to open the lower bolts...with a loud bang...nothing was broken,they're just tight.Just be sure that tools DON'T slip!
Pete
PS.Mine are set F:75% & R:50% from max.This was suggested setting for street use.For track rears needed to be stiffer.See eg. Jim Pasha's article.