Kierf - ¿§?

Okay...here is what I know (sort of):
To wire the AVC-R;
KLR terminal #22 - 'throttle position angle sensor pick up'
DME terminal #1 - RPM sensor
Speedo - Dark blue with red wire coming out of the right side of the speedo
DME terminal #14 - injector duty cycle - not needed

Okay...here it the problem. Those terminal numbers mean less than nothing to me. Which is #1? #2 #3 (so I know how it is numbered)? Is #1 #2 and #3 in the same posistion for both the KLR and DME? KLR #22 - What color is the wire (just to make sure I don't get the wrong one)? Same with DME #1.

The speedo wire...how can I get to it? Does it go to the DME? If so, what terminal (color)?

...thank you...

Rob

Also, when you pull the dme and klr connectors apart, the numbers are imprinted on the connectors. As for the speedo wire, it does not go to the dme or klr. You can pick up the signal on the right side of the instrument panel. It is a blue wire with a red stripe at pin b-14.

Rob

Kierf - ¿§?

Thanks, Rob! I hope to get my car back on the road today... <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Danno

ALso here's some tuning instructions I've found in my archives:
[quote]1. Set gear judge, drive in 5 gears, any speed, AVR-R will know what gear you're in
based on speed vs rpm.

2. Choose Program A or B. Set target boost level (say, 1.00kg/cm3)

3. Start at a low duty, say, 50%.

4. Set to monitor the boost, then do a run in 3rd gear to redline (you'd want a highway)

5. If boost too high, lower duty. If boost too low, raise duty. Repeat step 4.

Once the target boost is close enough, the AVC-R will then set a duty curve automatically
to get to your target boost level. It'll keep learning as you drive.

Final step, if you're not getting enough boost in 1st and 2nd, you can use the start duty
for the individual gears and raise the initial start duty cycle to get boost to shoot up quicker,
and hit your desired boost. It's a dangerous feature IMO, cause you'll overboost in those gears
going uphill.

Of course, this is if you want to get the most out of the boost controller
(get to max boost quicker without overboosting). You can use it in what I call "dummy mode"
where you set a flat duty cycle and just get the same boost level at all rpm's
(if your turbo can provide) with a small sacrafice in turbo response.
That takes about 10 seconds to setup.
<hr></blockquote>

Kierf - ¿§?

[quote]Originally posted by Rob:
<strong>You can pick up the signal on the right side of the instrument panel. It is a blue wire with a red stripe at pin b-14.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Huh? Do I have to remove the instrument panel? I looked from underneath, and saw only 1 harness that looked like it could be the harness for the speedo...but there is no way, I can tap into a wire all the way up there. How can I get access to that wire?

I swear, after I'm done with this, I'm going to do a write up complete with clear instructions and pictures, so anyone can figure this out.

Rob

[quote] How can I get access to that wire?
<hr></blockquote>

I did remove the instrument cluster to tap into the wire when I did mine. it's not too tough and only takes about 5-10 minutes to get it out.

Rob

Kierf - ¿§?

[quote]Originally posted by Rob:
<strong>

I did remove the instrument cluster to tap into the wire when I did mine. it's not too tough and only takes about 5-10 minutes to get it out.

Rob</strong><hr></blockquote>

How do I remove the instrument cluster?

Danno

To remove dash:

- set wheels straight, remove steering wheel (pull-off center pad). May not be needed depending upon steering-wheel and your dexterity.
- remove about 6 small phillips screws holding black instrument/vent bezel
- inside vent remove 4 phillips screws
- pull off bezel/vent
- remove 4 larger phillips screws around instrument cluster
- pull cluster partially out (carefully)
- remove 3 plugs with lock/ejector tabs often labeled A, B, C (mark/tape them somehow if no
mark visible)

Kierf - ¿§?

Slick.

Thanks, Danno and Rob.