michael2e

Which of the three vacuum ports have smaller diameter inlets? TIA

evil 944t

What are you trying to do drill it out?.If so , you flip it over and look for the letter "R". this is the tube to drill out. Use a 13/64 bit. drill through approx 1 1 /4" and drill only through the first wall.DO NOT DRILL ANY FURTHER!!keep the bit on the "c tube" side of the "r" tube.this will prevent the drill from breaking through to the outside at the junction of the two cylinder chambers that start from the r tube outlet..I would suggest using a drill press so, you can mark off 1 1 /4" point and drill slowly.

be careful you can drill too far and ruin it!!
also the plastic is usually fragile and IT WILL BREAK !!

michael2e

I'm actually trying to fabricate some brass replacement spouts for a couple of the ports that have cracked over time (the piece that the hose attaches to). It appears one of the spouts 'C' has a smaller diameter opening but I'm not sure which port it attaches to on the main unit. Sorry dont have a picture. Thought I'd try this before buying a new one

alpenweissisnice

Not trying to be a smart-a**, but seeing as how time is money, aren't the stock Bosch valves pretty inexpensive? Just seems like a lot of work for a part that I believe is less than $75.00?

badcoupe

Do you even have to use the cycling valve? Mine's pretty much bypassed

blu951

I bypassed the CV also then the boost hit harder than before.

James86-951

For $80 you can purchase a Boost Enhancer and pull the CV out.

Danno

Or for $39 you can get the ReliaBoost-1 controller with the same operating mechanism as the LBE. With all metal internals, it won't get clogged up and leak like other controllers with plastic and rubber innards.

michael2e

I'd prefer to just bypass the CV myself. My understanding following a discussion with one of the GURU guys is that it is necessary to keep the CV for a MAP/MAF conversion even though the updated Link modules have boost control features. Is this incorrect?

Danno

No 'need' to keep the CV if you're using a ReliaBoost. You can run your own line directly from the controller to the wastegate. Re-using the stock lines through the CV just allows for quick installation. However, in some cases with bad CVs with those broken plastic ports, this causes overboost and spikes.

The new MAP-sensor boxes we're using does have an electronic boost-controller built-in, but it still requires a boost-solenoid to manage boost. The stock CV would work in this capacity.

turboven

Danno, doesn't the CV has an electrical conection on the top? You just live it unplugged? Whow does the DME overboost protection works then?

Danno

Once you install a manual-boost controller of some sort to increase boost, it takes precedence over the CV's actions in managing the wastegate, regardless of whether it's hooked up or not. The overboost-protection method of dialing back boost by sending more pressure to the wastegate to open it and dump boost is disabled. That's because the CV can try to let air through to the wastegate all it wants, but the manual-controller (either check-valve or pressure-regulator type) will hold back the air, so nothing gets to the wastegate and boost stays high.

The other overboost-protection scheme of retarding ignition when knock is detected still works like before. But this is a fail-safe mechanism that only works to a limited degree.

turboven

Thanks!

michael2e

thanks for the clarity Danno. From a picture it appears that the middle port on the CV has a restrictor jet on the plastic nozzle. Anybody have one available to confirm? thanks

Hey Turboven- where are you from in Ven? I just returned from a few weeks windsurfing in Margarita. Awesome!

turboven

I'm from Caracas and I'm glad you liked our country.