George D

Yes.

George D

Well yes, unless you are a nut like me. During the build the entire motor was dry, then we put air pressure into the heater core and flowed are till there was NO moisture left. If you can do this, then you don't need the prep fluid.

theedge

Another thing for anyone thinking of this, you absolutely want proper drain valves on the block drain, rad drain, and bleeder valve. I replaced all those with ball valves that I can hook a hose up to, so that come coolant drain time im not splashing money all over the floor.

DLS

yes i remember that you have that from an old thread

Was it a straight fit o did you have to retap the threads?

Whats the threads on the radiator drainplug?

67King

Ford tried it, too. GM tried it as early as the 60's. Cross flow cooling is the prominent method, nowadays, where a coolant log "collects" the hot water. The hot water just doesn't want to flow downward. Cross flow cooling is much, much more effective. I had actually been pushing using reverse cooling on the new 5.0L when we were starting that program, until I learned more about it.

When we had problems, it was usually on 4V chambers (the older Mods, not the new 5.0L), where air would collect in the exhuast valve bridge. It was often very tough to get fresh coolant in there. Interesting in that the air pockets collected on a low point, but that's what happened.

zerMATT951

Is there a block drain on these cars, or are we talking about tapping into a freeze plug or some other location?

I've got the LR radiator drain valve kit to install soon and I'd love to stick a valve in the block is there is a convenient place to put one.

DLS

I´ve tried evans now and for a moment i did think that i´ve solved my overpressurize coolant problem but no it´s back again

it did hold up for 1,2 bar (17,5 psi) for a day but yesterday when i tried to do some 1/4 mile races the coolant puked out on my windshield again after race nr 3.

everytime i have removed the head i see no signs of broken headgasket, if i remove the head and can´t find some signs this time either i don´t know what do do anymore

perhaps it´s a tiny crack in the head or the block that´s only opens when the car gets really hot but i don´t thinks so.

or is it headlift?
time for arp studs.......

or can the turbo pressurize the coolant it´s the only thing i havn´t changed?

i can´t smell any exhaust gases in the coolant and my exhaust gas leakage tester don´t indicates exhaust gas in the coolant.

it only pukes coolant if i go over 1 bar (14,5 psi)

can the turbo leak air into the coolant from the compressor side?

Tom M'Guinn

Did you see my thread re the same symptoms:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...are-studs.html

DLS

Yes Tom i did read your thread some time ago and i thought that now the problem is solved and ran out in the garage and measured the dowel pins on my old block and then measured the holes in the turbo head but no, the pins where shorter than the holes in the head.
But that was on my old engine, maybe this engine have longer pins or the NA head does not have as deep holes in the head as the turbo head.

Or maybe my engine is not meant to run on E85 :/

Maybe the cylinders are to weak and moves due higher cylinderpressure from E85.

I´m going to try and back of the ignition some and see whats happens.

Next step will be going back to petrol.

If nothing is working then i will tear the head of again when the season is over.

Tom M'Guinn

I've found that once you start pushing coolant you compromise the gasket and it will leak regardless. I'd change it if it's been pushing coolant out the overflow on boost.

I'm more inclined to think my problem was too much timing, so would suggest you try that for sure, on a new gasket with 100 ft. lbs. on raceware studs.

Have you checked the deck and head with a true precision straight edge?

Do you have a knock counter? That might give you big clues as well if the problem is the tune. They are very cheap and easy to install, with all the connections available from the connector hooked on to the back of the glove box c clamp bracket.

Crackership

yep there is a block drain... on the passenger side. IIRC, it's a 13mm and it's below and a little behind the #4 exhaust port.

Crackership

FWIW, I spoke with a gentleman at Evans on the phone last week, and he said that the NPG+ is being discontinued, and the NPGR is not long behind it... there's a new product that's supposed to cover both bases called NPG+C (I think)... he also said that there had been reports of the Evans coolant seizing electric water pumps for turbos... I'm not sure what to make of that.

Thom

Johan, what kind of headgasket do you use?

I got coolant overflow when I was running E85 and when I replaced the (stock) headgasket it showed no sign of failure. I was running Raceware headstuds torqued to 85 lbs.ft.

My understanding is that there was too much cylinder pressure with regards to my configuration and that a metal headgasket and very high amounts of torque on the headstuds are necessary when running E85.

zerMATT951

Thanks for pointing that out! I had my engine totally stripped down and I guess I was never at the correct angle to see that. After I pulled the head, I used paper towels shoved down in the water jackets to get all of the old antifreeze out.

DLS

Thom
I use a stock headgasket and stock studs torqued to 120nm and i´m thinking the same as you, 0,8-1 bar is fine but not more, it must be the cylinder pressure thats to high.

So either back of the ignition or go to raceware or ARP studs and maybe a cometic gasket is the cure?