How to remove dowel pin from the block?
06-11-2011, 04:29 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
For future reference, where did you get the roll pin? Make sure it is in deep enough not to scratch the crank, accounting for wear of the bearing over time...
10-08-2016, 01:20 AM
#18
5th Gear
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
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Related thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...rn-freely.html
I had this happen earlier today. I did everything right when using the plastigage. During the final torquing I rushed, knowing I was on the clock with the gasket maker, and forgot to line up the nose bearing with the roll pin.
I first suspected something was off when a stud began to pull out (#11 in the sequence) on 2nd and final stage (37 ft/lbs). I left it and finished torquing. The crank wouldn't rotate at all.
So the bearing is out of round and the roll pin is crushed into the block. I took 2 spare nuts and bottomed them out on the stud and got the stud back in place, for now.
Need:
1. A front bearing without buying the whole set
2. A machine shop that will safely remove the pin
3. The appropriate pin replacement. N10109001 works? It looks like a solid dowel
4. To remove the problem stud and re-apply threadlocker?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
I had this happen earlier today. I did everything right when using the plastigage. During the final torquing I rushed, knowing I was on the clock with the gasket maker, and forgot to line up the nose bearing with the roll pin.
I first suspected something was off when a stud began to pull out (#11 in the sequence) on 2nd and final stage (37 ft/lbs). I left it and finished torquing. The crank wouldn't rotate at all.
So the bearing is out of round and the roll pin is crushed into the block. I took 2 spare nuts and bottomed them out on the stud and got the stud back in place, for now.
Need:
1. A front bearing without buying the whole set
2. A machine shop that will safely remove the pin
3. The appropriate pin replacement. N10109001 works? It looks like a solid dowel
4. To remove the problem stud and re-apply threadlocker?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Last edited by Detox; 10-08-2016 at 01:52 AM.
10-08-2016, 06:37 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I can send you a new front bearing if needed.
To clarify, the pin in the front main bore is only there to locate the bearing during installation. It has nothing to do with preventing it from spinning. The bearing is secured by the 'crush' provided by the lower crankcase half when torqued since the housing bore OD is slightly smaller than the bearing ID. This, btw, is how all the engine bearings are held in place.
Further, under normal conditions, there is no metal to metal contact that would allow a bearing to spin. If there is, it would be due to lack of lubrication and much bigger problems would be at hand.
To clarify, the pin in the front main bore is only there to locate the bearing during installation. It has nothing to do with preventing it from spinning. The bearing is secured by the 'crush' provided by the lower crankcase half when torqued since the housing bore OD is slightly smaller than the bearing ID. This, btw, is how all the engine bearings are held in place.
Further, under normal conditions, there is no metal to metal contact that would allow a bearing to spin. If there is, it would be due to lack of lubrication and much bigger problems would be at hand.
10-08-2016, 07:17 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Related thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...rn-freely.html
I had this happen earlier today. I did everything right when using the plastigage. During the final torquing I rushed, knowing I was on the clock with the gasket maker, and forgot to line up the nose bearing with the roll pin.
I first suspected something was off when a stud began to pull out (#11 in the sequence) on 2nd and final stage (37 ft/lbs). I left it and finished torquing. The crank wouldn't rotate at all.
So the bearing is out of round and the roll pin is crushed into the block. I took 2 spare nuts and bottomed them out on the stud and got the stud back in place, for now.
Need:
1. A front bearing without buying the whole set
2. A machine shop that will safely remove the pin
3. The appropriate pin replacement. N10109001 works? It looks like a solid dowel
4. To remove the problem stud and re-apply threadlocker?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
I had this happen earlier today. I did everything right when using the plastigage. During the final torquing I rushed, knowing I was on the clock with the gasket maker, and forgot to line up the nose bearing with the roll pin.
I first suspected something was off when a stud began to pull out (#11 in the sequence) on 2nd and final stage (37 ft/lbs). I left it and finished torquing. The crank wouldn't rotate at all.
So the bearing is out of round and the roll pin is crushed into the block. I took 2 spare nuts and bottomed them out on the stud and got the stud back in place, for now.
Need:
1. A front bearing without buying the whole set
2. A machine shop that will safely remove the pin
3. The appropriate pin replacement. N10109001 works? It looks like a solid dowel
4. To remove the problem stud and re-apply threadlocker?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
1. As mentioned, I have a front bearing if needed.
2. That's the easy part (see #4)
3. Once the pin is out it likely can be reused. Clean up the boogered end, turn it over and install at the correct depth. Best to have the shop do it.
4. The threads are pulled and need a proper repair at a competent machine shop. Once repaired, do NOT install with Loctite unless you torque it IMMEDIATELY (see Loctite instructions). Just use a thick anti-seize like Extreme Pressure Lube #3.
