951Flash

Temperature is increasing until boil over when standing still (1000 rpm)

When giving it trottle, the temperature drops.

When driving up-hill, the temperate increases.
When driving down-hill, the temperature decrease.

I have exchanged the coolant, and both thermostats.

Please give tips?
My car has gone 137K Km.. timing belt was exchanged at 104K/km.. it was last tightend at 118K...

Please help? desperate,

Sami951

Do the cooling fans come on?

Did you bleed the cooling system properly when you changed the fluid?

Just the first two things that came to my mind

sybelix

water pump workin' ok?..
oil ok in the motor?..

Van

Thermostat?

dmoffitt

sounds like you need to properly re-bleed the cooling system, make sure you have the heater control set to "hot" and the fan blower on while doing so...

could it also be your water pump, the whole up-hill / down-hill thing seems odd, as if coolant isn't flowing w/o the assistance of gravity or the throttle --- or, maybe the belt isn't properly against the pulley that turns the pump?

Luke

is there oil in your coolant?

951Flash

1. I have bleed the coolant and removed air pockets properly
2. I have allready installed new thermostats

I will check timing belt against water pump, thanks for tips...

Cooling fans are working...
No oil in coolant.

fast951

Change your coolant filler cap and rebleed.

ELLSSUU

When you think you've bled the system correctly that's when you need to do it about 10 more times. Seriously!

adrial

Definetely check the tension of the timing belt!

If thats OK (and you're 100% sure that its ok and there's no sign that the belt has been slipping on the water pump), then rebleed the cooling system.

I wish Porsche had made a better way to bleed the cooling system.

Has anybody thought of replacing that bolt with something similar to the brake bleeders?? That would make bleeding the cooling system SO much better and SO much easier. I think I'm gonna look that up actually....anybody know the size of the bleeder bolt??

Danno

"I wish Porsche had made a better way to bleed the cooling system."

This is the first car I've ever had that even required bleeding the bubbles out. On all the other ones, the bubbles work their way out to the radiator and collect under radiator cap. Then just open the cap, fill to the top, close cap and that's it! I guess having a radiator without a cap at the very top kinda messed up that simple procedure. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />

RJP 951

Just a tip on effective bleeding of the cooling system...

1) Put front end of car up on ramps or on a decent incline.

2) Starting with a cool-warm engine, open the bleed bolt while at idle.

3) Open the throttle to 2000 RPM or so, just long enough to see coolant stream out of the bleed bolt, then close the bolt.

4) Crack open the radiator cap seal on the coolant tank.

5) Open throttle again and vary speed from idle to 2500 RPM. You will see the bubble as they flow into the coolant tank from the small return line at the lower front of the tank.

Depending on the amount of air in the system this may take several minutes to flush, but this method worked better than anything else I tried, and it worked in one shot.

Ron

Peckster

Maybe your rad's no good.

Olli Snellman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">1) Put front end of car up on ramps or on a decent incline </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">That usually help !!!

Sami951

Also, when bleeding the cooling system, you must have the heater turned to max and also run the engine long enough to get the fans come on. Open the bleed valve, wait until fluid comes out, close, run for a while, open... I was watching when the mech who works on my car went through this, and it did take some time to get the air out.