HELP! What' wrong with my 951
05-12-2003, 09:07 PM
#17
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Sami951:
<strong>Also, when bleeding the cooling system, you must have the heater turned to max and also run the engine long enough to get the fans come on. Open the bleed valve, wait until fluid comes out, close, run for a while, open... I was watching when the mech who works on my car went through this, and it did take some time to get the air out.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yes, good point about turning the heat on. In general though, the key thing I discovered relative to what others had posted previously is that you can bleed the system through the reservoir and cap, rather than trying to do it all through the bleed valve/bolt. Much less messy, and more obvious when the air has all cleared out.
Ron
<strong>Also, when bleeding the cooling system, you must have the heater turned to max and also run the engine long enough to get the fans come on. Open the bleed valve, wait until fluid comes out, close, run for a while, open... I was watching when the mech who works on my car went through this, and it did take some time to get the air out.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yes, good point about turning the heat on. In general though, the key thing I discovered relative to what others had posted previously is that you can bleed the system through the reservoir and cap, rather than trying to do it all through the bleed valve/bolt. Much less messy, and more obvious when the air has all cleared out.
Ron
06-24-2003, 02:46 PM
#18
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by RJP 951:
<strong>Just a tip on effective bleeding of the cooling system...
1) Put front end of car up on ramps or on a decent incline.
2) Starting with a cool-warm engine, open the bleed bolt while at idle.
3) Open the throttle to 2000 RPM or so, just long enough to see coolant stream out of the bleed bolt, then close the bolt.
4) Crack open the radiator cap seal on the coolant tank.
5) Open throttle again and vary speed from idle to 2500 RPM. You will see the bubble as they flow into the coolant tank from the small return line at the lower front of the tank.
Depending on the amount of air in the system this may take several minutes to flush, but this method worked better than anything else I tried, and it worked in one shot.
Ron</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">i allways thought that you were to let the air bubbles come out of the bleeder nut,but ill have to try cracking the raditor cap and leting the air out there. you say it worked for you with good results?
scott
<strong>Just a tip on effective bleeding of the cooling system...
1) Put front end of car up on ramps or on a decent incline.
2) Starting with a cool-warm engine, open the bleed bolt while at idle.
3) Open the throttle to 2000 RPM or so, just long enough to see coolant stream out of the bleed bolt, then close the bolt.
4) Crack open the radiator cap seal on the coolant tank.
5) Open throttle again and vary speed from idle to 2500 RPM. You will see the bubble as they flow into the coolant tank from the small return line at the lower front of the tank.
Depending on the amount of air in the system this may take several minutes to flush, but this method worked better than anything else I tried, and it worked in one shot.
Ron</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">i allways thought that you were to let the air bubbles come out of the bleeder nut,but ill have to try cracking the raditor cap and leting the air out there. you say it worked for you with good results?
scott
06-24-2003, 06:44 PM
#20
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I read it on the digest and tried it myself ( Not my idea, just passing it on ) ... use a 8.0mm straight grease gun fitting on a 6' length of 1/4" I.D. clear tube held on with a tye wrap. Remove the bleeder screw and attach this jig. Place the other end in the overflow tank and follow all the above suggestions, including leaving the heater on HOT. Run the car for about a half hour and you will be suprised at how much air will flow. Also add some water wetter as this helps remove the air from the coolant!
Stay COOL!
Jaak Lepson ... been there, done that, bought the t-shirt and wore it out!
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Stay COOL!
Jaak Lepson ... been there, done that, bought the t-shirt and wore it out!
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
06-26-2003, 07:00 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by RJP 951:
<strong>Just a tip on effective bleeding of the cooling system...
1) Put front end of car up on ramps or on a decent incline.
2) Starting with a cool-warm engine, open the bleed bolt while at idle.
3) Open the throttle to 2000 RPM or so, just long enough to see coolant stream out of the bleed bolt, then close the bolt.
4) Crack open the radiator cap seal on the coolant tank.
5) Open throttle again and vary speed from idle to 2500 RPM. You will see the bubble as they flow into the coolant tank from the small return line at the lower front of the tank.
Depending on the amount of air in the system this may take several minutes to flush, but this method worked better than anything else I tried, and it worked in one shot.
Ron</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">i tried this this afternoon and did exactly the way you said and with the raditor cao off i noticed the level in the coolent tank started to rise.is that a indacation of a thermostat not opening?
scott
<strong>Just a tip on effective bleeding of the cooling system...
1) Put front end of car up on ramps or on a decent incline.
2) Starting with a cool-warm engine, open the bleed bolt while at idle.
3) Open the throttle to 2000 RPM or so, just long enough to see coolant stream out of the bleed bolt, then close the bolt.
4) Crack open the radiator cap seal on the coolant tank.
5) Open throttle again and vary speed from idle to 2500 RPM. You will see the bubble as they flow into the coolant tank from the small return line at the lower front of the tank.
Depending on the amount of air in the system this may take several minutes to flush, but this method worked better than anything else I tried, and it worked in one shot.
Ron</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">i tried this this afternoon and did exactly the way you said and with the raditor cao off i noticed the level in the coolent tank started to rise.is that a indacation of a thermostat not opening?
scott
07-11-2003, 03:34 AM
#23
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[/qb][/QUOTE]i tried this this afternoon and did exactly the way you said and with the raditor cao off i noticed the level in the coolent tank started to rise.is that a indacation of a thermostat not opening?
scott[/QB][/QUOTE]
Good question... Does anyone know?
scott[/QB][/QUOTE]
Good question... Does anyone know?
07-11-2003, 06:10 PM
#25
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Check something just out of curiosity. Watch your temp gauge come up to 1/2. Make sure the fans aren't on. Then once the fans come on watch the gauge to see if it spikes at all.
Mine was doing this and after the spike it would gently creep up to the red. My local mech took 2 weeks to figure it out. Turns out I had a bad ground in one of my gauges and in another spot. After the fix it didn't indicate overheating.
If you are "boiling over" though, that would indicate that this is in fact a mechanical problem.
Mine was doing this and after the spike it would gently creep up to the red. My local mech took 2 weeks to figure it out. Turns out I had a bad ground in one of my gauges and in another spot. After the fix it didn't indicate overheating.
If you are "boiling over" though, that would indicate that this is in fact a mechanical problem.
07-13-2003, 07:27 PM
#26
Not that it's good news, but my car JUST starting acting very similar. (Unfortunately it happened at the track this weekend
The temp needle rose up towards the high mark(never done this before) which caused some suspicion.....then everytime we'd shut it down it would spew coolant out of the overflow.
We bled the system every time.....same thing would happen after shutdown.
According to a very competent 951 mechanic at the track, these are the symptoms of a leaking head gasket.
So it looks like that's the route I'll need to go.
I was told about $1200 for labor (15 hours @$80/hr)+ parts.
Does this sound about right to others???
The temp needle rose up towards the high mark(never done this before) which caused some suspicion.....then everytime we'd shut it down it would spew coolant out of the overflow.
We bled the system every time.....same thing would happen after shutdown.
According to a very competent 951 mechanic at the track, these are the symptoms of a leaking head gasket.
So it looks like that's the route I'll need to go.
I was told about $1200 for labor (15 hours @$80/hr)+ parts.
Does this sound about right to others???
07-13-2003, 07:39 PM
#27
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The symptoms leads me to believe it's a blown headgasket. However, more investigation is needed before you start tearing things apart.
Is your thermostat sticking? Do you have a collapsed radiator hose? Is your water pump going bad? Do a coolant system pressure test.
Do a leakdown test, it will be a good indication.
Find a shop that can test your Coolant to determine if exhaust gases are mixing in it. It's a kit that relies on a chemical reaction...
Since you track your car, it might be a good long term goal to learn how to work on it yourself (just a suggestion). The more you track it, the more things require maintenance.. Much cheaper if you do your own work...
Is your thermostat sticking? Do you have a collapsed radiator hose? Is your water pump going bad? Do a coolant system pressure test.
Do a leakdown test, it will be a good indication.
Find a shop that can test your Coolant to determine if exhaust gases are mixing in it. It's a kit that relies on a chemical reaction...
Since you track your car, it might be a good long term goal to learn how to work on it yourself (just a suggestion). The more you track it, the more things require maintenance.. Much cheaper if you do your own work...