Alignment
05-18-2011 | 12:53 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 4
From: Carson City NV
The slip plates just make it "easier" and "quicker". Less taking off the jacks and rolling back and forth... For raising the car the car up to make the front camber adjustments, it's like this:
-I measure a front wheel with a Fastrax camber gauge: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Fastrax_Gauges
-Let's say the measurement is -2.1 degrees
-My target is -2.8 degrees (remember, I have a track car)
-I'll jack the car up, and measure the camber again... now it's +1.5 degrees (because of suspension droop and or not being level)
-I loosen the lock and eccentric nuts, I'll adjust the eccentric until the Fastrax reads +0.8 degrees
-Tighten everything down
-Lower car
-Settle suspension (either with rolling or with slip plates)
-Bingo, I have -2.8 degrees.
-I measure a front wheel with a Fastrax camber gauge: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Fastrax_Gauges
-Let's say the measurement is -2.1 degrees
-My target is -2.8 degrees (remember, I have a track car)
-I'll jack the car up, and measure the camber again... now it's +1.5 degrees (because of suspension droop and or not being level)
-I loosen the lock and eccentric nuts, I'll adjust the eccentric until the Fastrax reads +0.8 degrees
-Tighten everything down
-Lower car
-Settle suspension (either with rolling or with slip plates)
-Bingo, I have -2.8 degrees.
05-18-2011 | 01:04 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,699
Likes: 80
From: Midwest - US
Van,
Do you have much luck doing the rear toe and camber with the suspension unloaded?
I have to figure out how to get the car high enough (stands, blocks w/ some sort of slip plate) to make adjustments under the car. Raising and lower it to roll it, and having the strings mounted to the car instead of everything stationary, gets extremely problematic and time consuming.
Do you have much luck doing the rear toe and camber with the suspension unloaded?
I have to figure out how to get the car high enough (stands, blocks w/ some sort of slip plate) to make adjustments under the car. Raising and lower it to roll it, and having the strings mounted to the car instead of everything stationary, gets extremely problematic and time consuming.
05-18-2011 | 02:39 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,008
Likes: 97
From: Hyde Park, NY
Jim, I do, but it's slow going. I have a set of "old-school" corner balance scales - they are bathroom scales with a fulcrum to reduce the weight on the scale, they look a bit like this, but mine have ball bearings so they roll the the side as the suspension settles.
Anyhow, I have a lift, so I lift the car up, put the scales under there, lower the car, take a measurement, raise the car, make a change, lower it and re-measure.
For the rear, while it's in the air, I will loosen the three trailing arm nuts, make an adjustment with the sway bar link (camber) or the toe tool, tighten the trailing arm nuts, lower it and measure. It takes 4 or 5 cycles to get it where I want.
Anyhow, I have a lift, so I lift the car up, put the scales under there, lower the car, take a measurement, raise the car, make a change, lower it and re-measure.
For the rear, while it's in the air, I will loosen the three trailing arm nuts, make an adjustment with the sway bar link (camber) or the toe tool, tighten the trailing arm nuts, lower it and measure. It takes 4 or 5 cycles to get it where I want.
05-18-2011 | 11:39 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 2
From: St Augustine FL
I have tried many methods over the years.
Longacre toe plates for toe. worth every penny. Cheap, Simple effective and can be used at the track.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b.../?autoview=SKU
For camber I use a simple straight edge/spirit level and steel rule and use cosines and measure. Also very quick and effective. I also have a camber gage but find this quicker and more acurate.
With 18" wheels and long extension I can get to the special tool at the rear with the wheels on.
Longacre toe plates for toe. worth every penny. Cheap, Simple effective and can be used at the track.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b.../?autoview=SKU
For camber I use a simple straight edge/spirit level and steel rule and use cosines and measure. Also very quick and effective. I also have a camber gage but find this quicker and more acurate.
With 18" wheels and long extension I can get to the special tool at the rear with the wheels on.
