Hey guys,

So I am finally in the final stages of getting my car back together. It is going to require an alignment and I am looking to do this myself.

I have searched and read a lot of what is required, however, I cannot find any reference for the rear width, vs the front width.

My car is an 87 951. Does anyone know the width at the rear and front, with a description of what exactly you are measuring between? Or if anyone has done this, what did you use as a reference starting point?

Cheers,

Alex

 

I think you mean for setting rear toe...

It doesn't really matter - you just make sure it's even on both sides. What I do is use a tube I can sight down (think of a rifle sight) and look at a tape measure on the front hub (or centercap).

So, I'll set my toe, maybe 1/16" to 1/8" toe in (using tape measure and two 24" pieces of aluminum angle iron bungee-corded to the spokes), then make sure each wheel is sighting to the same same distance to the front hub.

The other way is to use something like the "smart strings" setup - where you make a string "box" around the car, then just measure to the front and back of the rim to measure toe. As long as your side strings are parallel, and you "box" is square, the tracking will be correct.

 

+1, the width thing was confusing me. I think you just need to set the basics, caster camber and toe.

 

I guess i should have phrased what I was asking differently.

As an example:

Distance in the rear from the outside of the rim to the outside of the rim is 6 feet.

Distance in the front from the outside of the rim to the outside of the rim is 5.5 feet.

I know if I draw a straight line from the centre of the rear wheel to the front, with zero toe, the rim will be exaclty 3 inches from the line. So now I can set the proper toe.

Maybe this makes more sense?

 

This should help, it's the square box with string thing.

http://elantragtclub.tripod.com/elantra/id554.html

 

That's a good DIY website.

As for the width measurements, they will also change as the ride height changes (or with different rims) - so, whatever my measurement is, it might not be the same for you.

Also, to do a good alignment, you want to be accurate to at least 1/16th of an inch on the toe.

 

Thanks, thats what I was looking for.

 

No prob, that bit about the slide plates is pretty cool never saw it before! keep us advised on how it goes, this is a tool I should add to my skill sit! Well assuming I have skills!

 

I've set my toe in for years by just using a measuring tape. I've never sprung for the slide plates, so I just roll the car back and forth a little and remeasure. I made me a bolt tool to lock the rack in center. I picked up some tips over on the 928 forum on string alignment. I am having trouble getting 1° camber out of the drivers front suspension. Something the last alignment shop told me he got out. Now I find inside wear on my new tire.

 

In the link the guy used 12 by 12 tiles with grease between them!

Pictures of the tool you made would be cool! I know stock Mcpherson struts don't have much camber adjustment is the ecentric damaged on that side?

 

I have found, if I jack the car in the air, so the weight is off of the suspension, I can get more camber movement out of the front (especially if I have a helper push or pull on the top of the wheel while I adjust the eccentric).

 

Aww hence no need for the slide plates! But then the suspension would be unloaded? Oh and wasn't that a huge issue ion the 928"s? I heard those things were a bear to align?

 

Susp. should be loaded, if I remember my tech school alignment class from 20 yrs ago.

 

Aww, hence the need "for" the slide plates!

 

The slip plates just make it "easier" and "quicker". Less taking off the jacks and rolling back and forth... For raising the car the car up to make the front camber adjustments, it's like this:

-I measure a front wheel with a Fastrax camber gauge: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Fastrax_Gauges
-Let's say the measurement is -2.1 degrees
-My target is -2.8 degrees (remember, I have a track car)
-I'll jack the car up, and measure the camber again... now it's +1.5 degrees (because of suspension droop and or not being level)
-I loosen the lock and eccentric nuts, I'll adjust the eccentric until the Fastrax reads +0.8 degrees
-Tighten everything down
-Lower car
-Settle suspension (either with rolling or with slip plates)
-Bingo, I have -2.8 degrees.