FS: Modded 951
#1
Jane Bond 007
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It's time to pick the 951 up in MI and bring it to Toronto, but the more I think about importing it, the more I'm tempted to just let it go. The turbo went out last summer and I'm tired of having to crawl around under it. I have also been diagnosed with Meniere's Disease and that makes it difficult to work on it. So:
1986 951 with 87 engine, Black with Cashmere interior
-Ported, polished and O-ringed head
-T04e turbo with .57 trim
-knife edged and perp drilled crank
-lightened flywheel
-teflon coated pistons (Lindsey Racing)
-Lindsey fuel rail
-AFPR (3 bar)
-Lindsey catch can with venturi delete and drilled AOS
-Brand new engine wiring harness
-Link G4 Storm with knock block (KB uninstalled)
-57# Racetronix injectors with ballast resistors
-Griffin Radiator
-Factory LSD with cooler
-MAF and ARC-II included, but not needed with the new G4
-SFR hard pipes with GReddy BOV
-TiAL 38mm wastegate
-Bursch test pipe
-Zeitronix with all the goodies
-Speedline wheels with proper early offset (clearcoat is lifting on the fronts - they were built for me by Jim Dorociak)
-Spare 993 style wheels
-968 handles, mirrors, and wing (side pieces not installed, but included)
-AJ/USA CS Steering wheel with Porsche crest
-Pioneer stereo with 6 disc changer in glove box
-Air front splitter (with black gel coat)
-Clear turn indicator lenses (front only)
-Euro-style rear bumper
-Vented nose panel and euro fogs
The bad:
-Turbo seals are bad. I have no idea how much it would cost to rebuild. It is Matt H's old turbo he had built at Majestic.
-Front end bushings are worn out
-Power steering is shot. The reservoir is not even on the car. I have a spare one lying around. Pump is also off, but I have a rebuild kit for it. The hoses are shot - not sure about the rack.
-Car has been sitting for about 3 yrs. Has less than 1000 miles on a newly rebuilt engine, but hasn't been driven.
-I was told by the PO that the car had a salvage title, but when I bought it, the title was clear. Just disclosing what I was told.
-Speedline clearcoat mentioned above. The 993 wheels are also scuffed - 2 of them pretty bad.
This car is pretty easy to research on Rennlist - a lot of the pics are listed in my sig line!
I know the economy is bad (another reason I would sell), but I need to get $12K (the Link system is $3K and the Speedlines are $2.5K alone).
1986 951 with 87 engine, Black with Cashmere interior
-Ported, polished and O-ringed head
-T04e turbo with .57 trim
-knife edged and perp drilled crank
-lightened flywheel
-teflon coated pistons (Lindsey Racing)
-Lindsey fuel rail
-AFPR (3 bar)
-Lindsey catch can with venturi delete and drilled AOS
-Brand new engine wiring harness
-Link G4 Storm with knock block (KB uninstalled)
-57# Racetronix injectors with ballast resistors
-Griffin Radiator
-Factory LSD with cooler
-MAF and ARC-II included, but not needed with the new G4
-SFR hard pipes with GReddy BOV
-TiAL 38mm wastegate
-Bursch test pipe
-Zeitronix with all the goodies
-Speedline wheels with proper early offset (clearcoat is lifting on the fronts - they were built for me by Jim Dorociak)
-Spare 993 style wheels
-968 handles, mirrors, and wing (side pieces not installed, but included)
-AJ/USA CS Steering wheel with Porsche crest
-Pioneer stereo with 6 disc changer in glove box
-Air front splitter (with black gel coat)
-Clear turn indicator lenses (front only)
-Euro-style rear bumper
-Vented nose panel and euro fogs
The bad:
-Turbo seals are bad. I have no idea how much it would cost to rebuild. It is Matt H's old turbo he had built at Majestic.
-Front end bushings are worn out
-Power steering is shot. The reservoir is not even on the car. I have a spare one lying around. Pump is also off, but I have a rebuild kit for it. The hoses are shot - not sure about the rack.
-Car has been sitting for about 3 yrs. Has less than 1000 miles on a newly rebuilt engine, but hasn't been driven.
-I was told by the PO that the car had a salvage title, but when I bought it, the title was clear. Just disclosing what I was told.
-Speedline clearcoat mentioned above. The 993 wheels are also scuffed - 2 of them pretty bad.
This car is pretty easy to research on Rennlist - a lot of the pics are listed in my sig line!
I know the economy is bad (another reason I would sell), but I need to get $12K (the Link system is $3K and the Speedlines are $2.5K alone).
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Sorry to hear you're selling the car - I'm sure someone will pick it up for all the goodies it's got!
Can I ask a favor? I see that you've got the LR adjustable FPR, breather can, and you kept the cruise control. I'm doing exacly that with my can in a few weeks, but I haven't figured out how to squeeze all that in there... would it be possible to send or post a close-up pic that shows all that stuff so I can see how it's mounted?
Can I ask a favor? I see that you've got the LR adjustable FPR, breather can, and you kept the cruise control. I'm doing exacly that with my can in a few weeks, but I haven't figured out how to squeeze all that in there... would it be possible to send or post a close-up pic that shows all that stuff so I can see how it's mounted?
#6
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That sucks. Your 951 has always been one of my favorites, the FSU theme throughout is really cool. Definitely a one of a kind with some really nice additions. 12k is a hell of a price for all that.
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Sorry to hear of your troubles Michelle. It's a beautiful looking car with a ton of work and great mods on it. Some easy fixes to bring it up to 10/10. A bargain for someone looking for a great car.
Glws.
Glws.
#10
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HEy sorry to see u go. I remember my 1st 944 fest and your car was there and Andy was helping you fix it at the fest. Great times.
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Just a thought – it you got rid of the catch can and reinstalled the stock AOS plumbing I bet you ‘bad’ turbo seals will magically fix themselves. I have seen it way too many times, many turbos need a small amount of vacuum in the crankcase to help the oil to drain out – especially at idle. If yours smokes at idle once warmed up then that is the cause.
#13
Jane Bond 007
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It actually smokes as I increase the rpms and the shaft has some play. Still think it could be the catch can? I really don't know that much about turbos
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All the shafts have ‘some’ play. As long as the impeller is not close to hitting the housing its not a problem.
It does not take much oil leaking past the hot side deal to make a butt load of smoke. The seals in a turbo are not like the usual seals in an engine, they are much more similar to a piston ring. It’s a metal on metal seal (due to the heat and high shaft speed). If there is too much oil it will get past the seal and out into the hot side. The ‘old school’ fix is to install oil restrictors in the feed line. This does work but its more of a band aid than a real fix. The real fix is to make sure that the oil the is being fed to the turbo can drain back to the pan faster than it is being fed to the turbo. If you don’t have a small amount of vacuum at idle this is the worst case situation for the oil draining. There is no pressure inside the turbo (hot or cold side) to help keep the oil form getting past the seals and is there is not vacuum there is nothing helping to clear the oil from inside the turbo.
For those of you with stock engine management systems you can tell that there is a partial vacuum in the crank case at idle by removing the oil filler cap with the engine running - you will notice a change in the idle quality.
The only reason to run a catch can is if you are starting to hemorrhage a lot of oil under boost – and this means that your piston rings are worn out or you have massive scoring.
It does not take much oil leaking past the hot side deal to make a butt load of smoke. The seals in a turbo are not like the usual seals in an engine, they are much more similar to a piston ring. It’s a metal on metal seal (due to the heat and high shaft speed). If there is too much oil it will get past the seal and out into the hot side. The ‘old school’ fix is to install oil restrictors in the feed line. This does work but its more of a band aid than a real fix. The real fix is to make sure that the oil the is being fed to the turbo can drain back to the pan faster than it is being fed to the turbo. If you don’t have a small amount of vacuum at idle this is the worst case situation for the oil draining. There is no pressure inside the turbo (hot or cold side) to help keep the oil form getting past the seals and is there is not vacuum there is nothing helping to clear the oil from inside the turbo.
For those of you with stock engine management systems you can tell that there is a partial vacuum in the crank case at idle by removing the oil filler cap with the engine running - you will notice a change in the idle quality.
The only reason to run a catch can is if you are starting to hemorrhage a lot of oil under boost – and this means that your piston rings are worn out or you have massive scoring.
#15
Jane Bond 007
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I actually have a stand alone engine management (Link). The rings are brand new. I'll try removing the catch can before I yank the turbo and see what happens. Thanks Chris.