Just hit the dyno
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Sound good Patrick, thanks for the reply. To me, the real test is if the car goes faster around a track. I think the dyno is for testing that a car is ready to go. Then YOU have to have to make it go faster. The dyno part is easy, the going faster is hard.
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Lol, well now that our dollar is worth 1.07US you might have to shell out a few more hundred $ to pick one up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 333pg333
303whp at 15psi w a k26/8 w stock exhaust is the same as I got with 23psi gt3076, big cam, big intercooler, big exhaust, Vitesse VFlex on E85 race map. Guess you win.
Dyno's outside the US always seem to run lower. I'm guessing different conversion factors and such.
Originally Posted by 333pg333
303whp at 15psi w a k26/8 w stock exhaust is the same as I got with 23psi gt3076, big cam, big intercooler, big exhaust, Vitesse VFlex on E85 race map. Guess you win.
Dyno's outside the US always seem to run lower. I'm guessing different conversion factors and such.
I kid….
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On a more serious note – its always a good idea to get the boost curve on the print out – it will explain a lot about the torque curve fall off.
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Like I said earlier, the uncorrected seems closer to actual than the SAE corrected. That being said, the shop that put my 26/8 on had two 's' cars with mods (autothority on one and an old LR maf on the other) and said my car at 13 psi felt stronger than those other two.
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Zeff, very nice dyno charts. The first chart is comparable to what others have experienced, compare it to the dyno on our website. The power curve is nice and the AFRs are dead on.
A dyno chart is just a indication of what the car is doing (before/after) and to identify any problems. Not all dynos report the same. When it comes to correction factor, things can be off. A "generous" correction factor, cooling the intake with ice, or doing a run after a heat soak will change the numbers. The key is to have dyno conditions as close to real life as much as possible.
Your car seems to be running as it should, good job keeping it in top running condition.
A dyno chart is just a indication of what the car is doing (before/after) and to identify any problems. Not all dynos report the same. When it comes to correction factor, things can be off. A "generous" correction factor, cooling the intake with ice, or doing a run after a heat soak will change the numbers. The key is to have dyno conditions as close to real life as much as possible.
Your car seems to be running as it should, good job keeping it in top running condition.
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Yeah that wasn't something I was able to get. I did record my wideband and boost gauge. It is hard to see but if you look close you can see the car hit 15psi and slowly drop to around 12 at the end of the pull.
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And he was dropping to 13psi also.
Speaking of, why with a tial and 26/8 would boost roll off? I thought most of the 8 hotsides on the 26 were able to hold 15psi to redline from dyno's I have seen.
Yes, his corrected but be a bit high, but if it was a load dyno "Mustang" style, they usually read 5-10% LESS than dynojet style. So, 6 of 1, half dozen....
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I always heard you needed an ebc to keep the 26/8 holding till redline. I picked up my tial used with plates from here. Maybe it is the type of spring I've got in there. I don't really know.
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Coincidentally I'm putting down similar HP numbers but I'm down about 20 ft-lbs. Unfortunately I have no clue what turbo or chips are involved, as the PO had no records from the owner previous to him and I'm finding it difficult to ID the turbo without taking it off the car. AFAIK for sure I have the wastegate, mbc, some kind of chip (rev limiter is higher than stock). Keep us posted about the 27/6 and M-Tune, I'm very interested if I can get my car to stop going through axles like tissues.