How to remove Oil Filter ?
04-20-2011, 10:25 AM
#62
The higher the resistance (senders job), the higher the oil pressure. If you disconnect the wire(s) it would probably read 500 bar oil pressure if the gauge went that high.
Clarks has a section on testing sensors, but it uses a potentiometer, which I'm guessing you don't have. If it was mine, I'd have someone watch the gauge while you hold the blue/white wire against the block or the side of the sender.
What made you want to switch the wires?
Clarks has a section on testing sensors, but it uses a potentiometer, which I'm guessing you don't have. If it was mine, I'd have someone watch the gauge while you hold the blue/white wire against the block or the side of the sender.
What made you want to switch the wires?
04-20-2011, 10:29 AM
#63
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15 quarts wont change the resistance of the pressure gauge.
If you're on a budget, get a used sender and put it on. You've already removed the wires, so you're halfway home.
If you're on a budget, get a used sender and put it on. You've already removed the wires, so you're halfway home.
04-20-2011, 12:19 PM
#64
I ordered a sender from Pelican parts it should be here tomorrow. I am more worried about getting it off I had NO space to work down there i couldn't even get the wire clamp bolts off. I found some instructions on how to do the job and it seems straight forward but I cant figure out how I will unbolt that sender and re bolt the new one in such a tight space. May need some special tools.
04-21-2011, 11:57 PM
#68
Hey everyone - I got my first oil change completed successfully (so far).
-Sealed up the tiny hairline crack in the oil pan with a few layers of JB Weld.
-Also got the old oil pressure sender replaced with a new one and the pressure is being read correctly.
Could not have been done without the help from everyone on this board!
Thank you all very much!
(Now I will be trying to drain my coolant and change the auxiliary turbo cooling pump, and thermoswitch I have another thread where I am getting some help on that, feel free to drop some pointers)
-Sealed up the tiny hairline crack in the oil pan with a few layers of JB Weld.
-Also got the old oil pressure sender replaced with a new one and the pressure is being read correctly.
Could not have been done without the help from everyone on this board!
Thank you all very much!
(Now I will be trying to drain my coolant and change the auxiliary turbo cooling pump, and thermoswitch I have another thread where I am getting some help on that, feel free to drop some pointers)
04-22-2011, 12:00 AM
#69
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Just to be sure you are on the up and up, post pictures of your car and the repairs in progress. Lots of jokers out there. All oil pans have casting marks that look like cracks. That seems strange to me that you would glue them.
04-22-2011, 12:31 AM
#70
I ordered a sender from Pelican parts it should be here tomorrow. I am more worried about getting it off I had NO space to work down there i couldn't even get the wire clamp bolts off. I found some instructions on how to do the job and it seems straight forward but I cant figure out how I will unbolt that sender and re bolt the new one in such a tight space. May need some special tools.
I just gave this a read through, and it did actually teach me a couple of things. I didn't really spend a lot of time working on cars growing up, and having this kind of thing around now and then actually keeps me from needing to ask dumb questions. Thanks, Rennlist!
04-22-2011, 01:13 AM
#73
Rennlist Member
Hey everyone - I got my first oil change completed successfully (so far).
-Sealed up the tiny hairline crack in the oil pan with a few layers of JB Weld.
-Also got the old oil pressure sender replaced with a new one and the pressure is being read correctly.
Could not have been done without the help from everyone on this board!
Thank you all very much!
(Now I will be trying to drain my coolant and change the auxiliary turbo cooling pump, and thermoswitch I have another thread where I am getting some help on that, feel free to drop some pointers)
-Sealed up the tiny hairline crack in the oil pan with a few layers of JB Weld.
-Also got the old oil pressure sender replaced with a new one and the pressure is being read correctly.
Could not have been done without the help from everyone on this board!
Thank you all very much!
(Now I will be trying to drain my coolant and change the auxiliary turbo cooling pump, and thermoswitch I have another thread where I am getting some help on that, feel free to drop some pointers)
04-22-2011, 03:04 AM
#75
I was driving over a speed bump and it grinded the bottom of the oil pan after that it started to seep a little bit of oil a few drops a day. When I got under the car I could see where it scraped the pan and I found the oil was coming from a small crack which had formed. I decided to JB Weld it for a temporary fix. I'll see how long it holds up.
Reno what manual would you send me? I have the 300+ page workshop manual if thats what you were talking about.
Reno what manual would you send me? I have the 300+ page workshop manual if thats what you were talking about.