Silverbullet951

So i got stuck in the middle of the road when my clutch failed; the car was sitting for a bit until I bought a brand new clutch master and slave cylinder. When the car failed, the clutch pedal was completely pressed to the floor, and there was no longer any pressure in the system. a few days prior to failure, when I would press the pedal to shift gears, it would get stuck halfway, and I'd have to forcefully pull the pedal back up. It would work fine for a little while, then it would do it again.

Just recently I replaced the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder, and sure enough, the car was working fine for a few days, until tonight. I was driving home, and the pedal got stuck half way again. I had to forcefully pull the pedal back up with my foot to get it to the upper most position, then thereafter the pedal was working fine. I'm worried it will fail again. I do not know what the problem could be, since I replaced the slave and master with new parts. There was plenty of pressure in the system and there are no leaks. The reservoir has not changed level in even the slightest amount.

Any ideas guys? I am completely lost and need some experienced mechanics to guide me in anyway. Any information is greatly appreciated of course.

Thanks all for everything. hopefully I can figure this out.

David Floyd

I would try bleeding again

Silverbullet951

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow, other than that, can it be anything else?

David Floyd

When you changed master cylinders did you use the new rod ? if so it could be an adjustment at the pedal.

I leave the old rod attached at the pedal and slide the new master on, no need for adjustment.

AScholtes

Seems to have some air left in the system. I'd also suggest bleeding it again.

Bri Bro

Check the clutch spring and pivot pin.
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...88_KATALOG.pdf
Look in Main group 7 then 702

chrly924s

Bleed it some more. I put my motive on mine and just pumped the pedal. You can see all kinds of air coming up through the motive hose. It's hard to force all of the air down through the bleeder, but it will go up eventually.

Turbo17

I found that jacking the rear and pressure bleeding worked best for me. A simple pressure bleeder is a disk of plastic with a 1" piece of brass tube glued in to replace the brake fluid sensor on the reservoir. Flexible tubing runs from the reservoir to a mayonnaise jar with two brass tubes glued in, one short 1" and one long to the bottom. Connect the flexible plastic tubing from reservoir to long brass tube in mayonnaise jar. Put fluid in the mayonnaise jar, pressure to the short tube in mayonnaise jar.

Don't forget to move the clutch a few times while bleeding, or you won't remove air in the thimble piston in the master cylinder.

Silverbullet951

Thanks so much guys, I'll re-bleed and let you guys know.

gruhsy

Interesting that this is happening to you. I posted some info on bleeding my clutch I think you may have seen it if that was you that posted a few weeks ago having clutch issues.

So I hope this helps. My first 86 951 back in 93 I change the clutch master by myself with no bleeder just pedal method by myself... No problems at all and put 50000 miles on the car afterwards.

My new build.....holy f@#$#$#@@#$#$@# I flushed the system with new super blue then began getting air out to set up the pedal properly.

Replaced clutch slave......pedal stuck won't come up
replaced master.....pedal stuck won't come up
bought second new slave thought I damaged the first....pedal stuck won't come up

adjusting the piston on the slave the whole time
bought the tool that holds the piston in place
bought a flexible line so I could pull out the slave.... bleeding with motive bleeder highest point with the slave in the special clutch slave clamp i bought

50 f@$#$$@#$@#%#%# liters recycled and still nothing....

Then I finally thought...... I wonder if I take and adjust the 13mm spring on the clutch return...... which I left alone to begin with never having touched it because it worked with the original motor with only 27000 original miles

Anywhooooo. I loosened the spring on the pedal a few turns and bang the F@#$#$@#$@#$ pedal pops up and smacks me in the back of the head

Pedal works great now and all I had to to was loosen the dam spring off a couple turns on the pedal......Ya I'm still pissed off at myself for not trying that in the first place. Just because I never touched it to begin with was my theory.....

Try the spring on the pedal maybe that will help maybe not but at least you won't end up wasting 4 weeks of your life you will never get back like I did

I'm not an expert on the right way of working on these cars but pretty good at what not to do

hope that helps

Jason

Tom M'Guinn

Did you replace the hydraulic line connecting the master to the slave. They can and do leak, especially after changing the master and slave.

Silverbullet951

I did not replace the hydraulic line connecting the master to the slave. It's not leaking at all. There are no leaks anywhere. I decided that I would take the car for a test drive before re-bleeding it, and the pedal works fine, the pedal feels different than when I had the old slave and master cylinder in which it did since I replaced it, but the pedal does not get stuck. I don't know if I should bleed the system at all. How is that possible? I was driving it home that night, and the pedal got stuck halfway, not completely to the bottom, just half way. I pulled it back into place with my foot and it was working fine after. Mind you this only happened once. This morning, it's working fine. I'm baffled. Maybe there's a small pocket of air circulating in the system?

Anyway, I think I might just bleed the system again but I do not have a motive pump and will have to just do it the old fashion way.

Tom M'Guinn

Well it does sound like a little air is still in the system. A Motive bleeder does help, but if you can't use one, then the old fashion way will work eventually -- though it can take a long long time.... One trick I've used successfully is to unbolt the slave and tilt it with the bleeder screw pointint up (so that any air bubbles will rise us to the bleeder) and then with the bleeder screw open have someone push the pedal down gently. This can help get to those little bubbles that get trapped in the slave when it's installed. You just need to be careful not to push the pedal too hard, or push the pedal when the bleeder is closed, because the rod will push right out the end of the slave and cause a big mess...