Best Year and Best options for a 951
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Best Year and Best options for a 951
Hey guys,
I've been driving my 87 na for 3 years now, and it's time to start shopping for a 951. I was hoping you could give me some input on what I should look for. What are some of the differences between the years (I think some years came with wider tires and ABS)? Are the suspension and drivetrain options worthwhile? What are the best modifications to start with... and what are the best for ridiculous HP and handling?
Thanks,
The quest for horsepower begins next summer.
Justin
'87 944
I've been driving my 87 na for 3 years now, and it's time to start shopping for a 951. I was hoping you could give me some input on what I should look for. What are some of the differences between the years (I think some years came with wider tires and ABS)? Are the suspension and drivetrain options worthwhile? What are the best modifications to start with... and what are the best for ridiculous HP and handling?
Thanks,
The quest for horsepower begins next summer.
Justin
'87 944
#2
the 86 doesnt have airbags or abs, but it's significantly lighter than the 87 on models. the 86, 87, and 88 951 were all the *base* models, while an S was introduced in 88 with a larger turbo. this S model became the base model in 1989, after which the 951 was discontinued in the US. For all models, the M030 option is important for handeling, as you get upgraded koni yellows and a better torsion bar. so, if you're looking for all out power (about .4 seconds faster in the 0-60) go for the S model. if you want best handeling with best brakes and good power (with better spool time), get the 86 with M030 because it's lighter (unless you're going to strip the car, in which case get an S model for the extra power).
LSD was available in all years, and i think was standard in later models. I have an 86 with M030 and LSD.
Cheers,
LSD was available in all years, and i think was standard in later models. I have an 86 with M030 and LSD.
Cheers,
#3
Nordschleife Master
best is such a vague word...
In my mind the best combination of 951 parts would be a 1986 sunroof delete car (lighter chasis, no airbags, oil cooler on the differential (w/ a LSD), forged rods in the motor) and then putting on a 88 Turbo S, or 89 Turbo suspension and brake (M030, bigger sway bars, coil overs, S4 brakes, strongest spindles on the front of any derivation).
Then for the interior you could get some sport seats (came with the M030 option cars) and I would say you would have a great combination. But that is what I would want to do.
So yes there are significant differences between the two years. You essentially have three different groupings.
86: Early offset wheels 23mm, Forged rods in the motor, transmission cooler, weak front spindles
87-88: Late offset wheels 52mm, ABS (on most), Dual Airbags (one of the first cars in america to have them, and that actually worries me), Sunroof motor moved, stronger front spindles.
88 Turbo S and 89 Turbo: Now it is the M030 package that sets these apart, and also a slight boost in h.p. from the change of the turbo from the K26/6 in early models to the K26/8 in these. And also M030 package I described above.
I am sure i missed a few things... but I think the rule is by the best one you can, because buying a basket case leads to nothing but frustration, unless you like replaceing 1/2 a car.
On last note, if you plan on upgrading the car perhaps the premium of the Turbo S is not worth it for you. Some people swap out suspenion and brakes and in that case you just paind for parts you are going to take off....
In my mind the best combination of 951 parts would be a 1986 sunroof delete car (lighter chasis, no airbags, oil cooler on the differential (w/ a LSD), forged rods in the motor) and then putting on a 88 Turbo S, or 89 Turbo suspension and brake (M030, bigger sway bars, coil overs, S4 brakes, strongest spindles on the front of any derivation).
Then for the interior you could get some sport seats (came with the M030 option cars) and I would say you would have a great combination. But that is what I would want to do.
So yes there are significant differences between the two years. You essentially have three different groupings.
86: Early offset wheels 23mm, Forged rods in the motor, transmission cooler, weak front spindles
87-88: Late offset wheels 52mm, ABS (on most), Dual Airbags (one of the first cars in america to have them, and that actually worries me), Sunroof motor moved, stronger front spindles.
88 Turbo S and 89 Turbo: Now it is the M030 package that sets these apart, and also a slight boost in h.p. from the change of the turbo from the K26/6 in early models to the K26/8 in these. And also M030 package I described above.
I am sure i missed a few things... but I think the rule is by the best one you can, because buying a basket case leads to nothing but frustration, unless you like replaceing 1/2 a car.
On last note, if you plan on upgrading the car perhaps the premium of the Turbo S is not worth it for you. Some people swap out suspenion and brakes and in that case you just paind for parts you are going to take off....
#4
Your post makes me want to voice a question i've had for a little while: anyone else here have an 86 951 with LSD and M030? my car is a canadian import, and it's noticible because of some european hardware (all euro lights, euro warning lables, etc...). i'm curious if this configuration was ever offered in the states.
#6
Nordschleife Master
I think the M030 951 were offered in the states in 1986, my friend actually just sold hers for get this 2500 dollars. I told her she should have come to me first, i would have picked it up for that. Sure she needs work, but the car ran well.
Anyway, point being yes the M030 86's were available. I don't think there were a lot of them, my 86 has the sport suspenion, I can't remember, I think it was like M474 or something, but most are just the standard base model.
And the LSD is more important in track situations, most people in normal driving never use it, but in slippery conditions the LSD distributes power better, so that you don't have just one wheel spinning.
Anyway, point being yes the M030 86's were available. I don't think there were a lot of them, my 86 has the sport suspenion, I can't remember, I think it was like M474 or something, but most are just the standard base model.
And the LSD is more important in track situations, most people in normal driving never use it, but in slippery conditions the LSD distributes power better, so that you don't have just one wheel spinning.
#7
Unaffiliated
MO30 did NOT include sport seats, at least in 88 and 89. But you would think it would be a logical combination!!
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#8
Track Day
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I agree with everyone above but want to add my $.02. The 86 isn't as heavy but there were enough changes from 87 on that may nmake it easier to find parts, etc for the later cars.
LSD and M030 are well worth it if you can find them.
Unless you plan to keep them stock, I wouldn't spend the extra $$$ on the '88S or '89 cars.
I think that an '87 or '88 are the choices. Find ones that already have some of the mods you would do yourself. There are enough litely modded cars in great shape out there. Some have rims, MAFs, upgraded suspension, etc.
The most important thing to consider is the maint. history. Records are important. Make sure the imprtant stuff is covered otherwise the repairs could cost more than the purchase of the car.
Have patience and buy ythe car you are REALLY looking for.
BOL,
Daniel
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" /> <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
LSD and M030 are well worth it if you can find them.
Unless you plan to keep them stock, I wouldn't spend the extra $$$ on the '88S or '89 cars.
I think that an '87 or '88 are the choices. Find ones that already have some of the mods you would do yourself. There are enough litely modded cars in great shape out there. Some have rims, MAFs, upgraded suspension, etc.
The most important thing to consider is the maint. history. Records are important. Make sure the imprtant stuff is covered otherwise the repairs could cost more than the purchase of the car.
Have patience and buy ythe car you are REALLY looking for.
BOL,
Daniel
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" /> <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
#9
Instructor
[quote]Originally posted by Jeremy Martin:
<strong>the 86 doesnt have airbags or abs, but it's significantly lighter than the 87 on models. ,</strong><hr></blockquote>
What was lighter about the 86 other than it didn't have airbags and abs? what the car itself lighter? how many pounds are we talking here? Just curious...
<strong>the 86 doesnt have airbags or abs, but it's significantly lighter than the 87 on models. ,</strong><hr></blockquote>
What was lighter about the 86 other than it didn't have airbags and abs? what the car itself lighter? how many pounds are we talking here? Just curious...
#11
Race Director
Hmmm, Spooort Seaaaats.
Really the sport seats are very nice. Some of the best seats offered in P-car. If not ever put in a P-car.
They tend to wear a little on the side bolster and you will know when you gaining weight since they don't take well to those of WIDE GIRTH.
There are fanstic on the twisty road and idea for autocross or DE. Onlt thing better are real race seats.
There was a thread going around about these little while back with pictures. You will notice them if you see them and sit in them!
Hmmm Sport Seats
Really the sport seats are very nice. Some of the best seats offered in P-car. If not ever put in a P-car.
They tend to wear a little on the side bolster and you will know when you gaining weight since they don't take well to those of WIDE GIRTH.
There are fanstic on the twisty road and idea for autocross or DE. Onlt thing better are real race seats.
There was a thread going around about these little while back with pictures. You will notice them if you see them and sit in them!
Hmmm Sport Seats
#13
true. the timing belt tensioner is a blessing and a curse; it eliminates the need for the 15000mi or so retensioning. however, it's also one more part to break and i've heard of tensioners going far before the belt would have, and thus necessitating a very costly head job.
#14
Drifting
Join Date: May 2001
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[quote]Originally posted by Jeremy Martin:
<strong>the timing belt tensioner is a blessing and a curse; it eliminates the need for the 15000mi or so retensioning.</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is NOT the case. It just elimitates the need to own a $550 tool to do the job. You still need to "re-set" the timing belt tension after 1,500 miles, then every 15,000 miles.
<strong>the timing belt tensioner is a blessing and a curse; it eliminates the need for the 15000mi or so retensioning.</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is NOT the case. It just elimitates the need to own a $550 tool to do the job. You still need to "re-set" the timing belt tension after 1,500 miles, then every 15,000 miles.
#15
tabor: if you set your timing belt by hand on a car with a self tensioner not only are you a braver man than i but you're also dangerously ignoring the tension reccomendations for that car. the self tensioner will keep tension for the life of the belt, but the car should always be tensioned at the reccomended milage. i'm more concerned about doing it at the correct time because i have an 86; i will agree actually setting the belt on there is significantly easier with a tensioner.