Throttle body Re-biuld Kit... calling Laust :-)
03-26-2011, 10:01 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
03-26-2011, 10:04 PM
#18
Addict
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Mine did the slow return thing after rebuild. I traced it to the lubricant I used. Bearing grease is way too thick for this appication. I used a thin oil and it now snaps shut. It probably wore in a bit too.
03-26-2011, 10:13 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
So how long before it snaps shut ... ? was it an issue when you first started the car i.e. slow to come to idle ?
Thanks for your feedback
Regards
Ed
03-26-2011, 11:15 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Heavy grease should thin out a little bit with use as it goes through a few heat cycles (especially in our engine bays!). I'd throw the TB on the car and run it a day or two before going too much further, the best problems are the ones that can solve themselves.
If it persists then I'd look into TB plate alignment.
Edit: Or I can sell you the rebuilt TB I have on my car right now. I haven't put my evap. delete TB on yet, so the one that is on there is just the extra I grabbed off eBay and rebuilt to get the car running.
If it persists then I'd look into TB plate alignment.
Edit: Or I can sell you the rebuilt TB I have on my car right now. I haven't put my evap. delete TB on yet, so the one that is on there is just the extra I grabbed off eBay and rebuilt to get the car running.
03-26-2011, 11:24 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Heavy grease should thin out a little bit with use as it goes through a few heat cycles (especially in our engine bays!). I'd throw the TB on the car and run it a day or two before going too much further, the best problems are the ones that can solve themselves.
If it persists then I'd look into TB plate alignment.
Edit: Or I can sell you the rebuilt TB I have on my car right now. I haven't put my evap. delete TB on yet, so the one that is on there is just the extra I grabbed off eBay and rebuilt to get the car running.
If it persists then I'd look into TB plate alignment.
Edit: Or I can sell you the rebuilt TB I have on my car right now. I haven't put my evap. delete TB on yet, so the one that is on there is just the extra I grabbed off eBay and rebuilt to get the car running.
Actually I did remove the grease already..but still a bit slowler than the spare one I have
Thanks for the offer though ...
03-26-2011, 11:28 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
03-27-2011, 02:18 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
03-27-2011, 03:01 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I wish I knew that before I took this thing apart at least 4 times and spent the better part of two days on it ...
SO the world should know, Anyone doing this rebuild
EXPECT THE MOVEMENT OF THE THROTTLE PLATE TO BE SLOWER WHEN YOU CHANGE THE SEALS....
Sorry but I don't know the answer to that .. Mine has some light showing through as well
03-27-2011, 06:23 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
Coming soon
03-27-2011, 09:31 PM
#29
Nordschleife Master
Sorry was off line for a few days!
While this is, in theory, true, it is also what the idle stab valve, and screw in the top of the throttle body is for.. both allow a small enough amount of air in to keep it running.. it is all in completely rebuilding the TB, not just replacing all the seals and calling it good. I rebuild each one I do a little beyond what is included in the kit, and each one has performed flawlessly since being rebuilt!
While SOME light is OK, on a fully rebuilt TB. I do the plate adjustment with all other hardware bottomed out, and have gotten the plate FULLY closed on each one..
Once re-assembled, each adjustment in order, and the throttle body acts, and throttle response is as it should be..
FWIW, this is something most of us will only ever do once, maybe twice.. I have done it too many times to keep track of... and am sure I will do it a few more times!
While SOME light is OK, on a fully rebuilt TB. I do the plate adjustment with all other hardware bottomed out, and have gotten the plate FULLY closed on each one..
Once re-assembled, each adjustment in order, and the throttle body acts, and throttle response is as it should be..
FWIW, this is something most of us will only ever do once, maybe twice.. I have done it too many times to keep track of... and am sure I will do it a few more times!
03-27-2011, 10:52 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
While this is, in theory, true, it is also what the idle stab valve, and screw in the top of the throttle body is for.. both allow a small enough amount of air in to keep it running.. it is all in completely rebuilding the TB, not just replacing all the seals and calling it good. I rebuild each one I do a little beyond what is included in the kit, and each one has performed flawlessly since being rebuilt!
To make a comparison to the LS1 crowd, when they put a big lopey camshaft in they sometimes drill a hole in the throttle plate. The little bit of extra air allows a smoother idle.
I'll be rebuilding my (second) TB tonight (I've juuuust had enough to drink to make car maintenance fun!), I'll see how the throttle plate fits. As far as I know it has ~105k miles on it and had never been rebuilt (except for the 50 miles I ran it after rebuilding it then moving the rebuild kit over to the TB I didnt break the nipple off).
I fully suggest you remove the evap system if you aren't in a state that inspect, it frees up so much room and gets rid of about 8 feet of vacuum line.