Im installing a new boost gauge and I was wondering if I should tap in to the KLR or The FPR line..
Thanks for the help

 

Brett, I'm about to do the same, and plan to tie into the KLR line. The advantages are 1) you don't have to go through the firewall, and 2) you'll know you're seeing the same boost reading that is being sent to the KLR.

I'm still waiting for just one Saturday above 30F to go out in the garage and do the install! I'll be installing an A/F ratio gauge at the same time.

Ron

 

Yeah, I found KLR to be about the darned easiest way...simple splice, plus, it give you a sure idea of whether you're overboosting...if you T off another line that might leak, the boost could read different from what the KLR sees and never alert you to possible overboost issues. On top of which, it's just plain simple...some plumbers' goop seems to have proven impenetrable as a sealant around the rubber T for the splice, and it was very easy to route.

 

Would also be a good time to disconnect the line from the KLR and spray some carb-cleaner through it from the top. Trapped oil in this line is what causes a lot of the inaccurate boost-readings. Particularly 20psi boost that shows up as 14psi on the gauge....

 

i take it you have experience with that danno?

i had my gauge installed (this was before i was comfortable working on the car myself... doh) and the shop that did the work choose the line that's near the "central electric" box - i think it goes to the fuel vent (don't have the diag. in front of me).

advantage: close to where the gauge ended up (a-pillar)

disadvantage: had to go thru firewall

had i done it myself now, i think i'd still go that route vs the klr one - i wouldn't want any chance of my "T" leaking, nor it affecting the pressure readings seen @ the klr...

 

does anyone have a picture of the proper "T" to use when taping into the KLR line? i got a T but it is not optimal as i use 2 different sizez lines in the T. So assume you use the stock KLR line then the bottom of the T as the 3rd line is 2.5mm vaccume hose going to my boost gage, what make and size T would be ideal for no vaccume leaks? thanks to anyone who can show the pic, its just hard to find the right size T for the small clear KLR line with the bottom of the T regular sized for 2.5mm standard vaccume line if you get me, i got a custom setup but it could be bulletproof if i find the right T, thnaks

 

where exactly is the KLR line, im about to wire a temporary turbo gauge up myself.

 

I tapped into the FPR line with a barbed T fitting and some rubber vac line. I ran a hard line along the firewall securing it with the existing zip ties. I then routed it behind the firewall where the fuse/relay box is and then over to where the existing rubber grommet penetrates into the interior. I made a very small incision with a razor blade to get through the grommet. When closed up you cannot evern see it. After routing the hard line under where the pedals are I then pushed it through the radio slot to the gauge.

Boost levels are very accurate based on tuning with the LBE and before and after readings with the GURU chipset. I'm hitting 15 psi exactly with the chips and LBE set to stock. I was hitting 11.5-12 psi before with the LBE dialed out.

Good luck.