Hi,
I haven’t posted anything in a while on this list but that will change very soon. I go to a local tech school (Greenville tech if anyone’s in the area) and I am taking a general automotive class. My next class involves building engines of any type, and the students supply the engine. I was thinking this would be a great opportunity to freshen up my motor. The class is three weeks long, and the engines must be finished by the end of the class. I have done various work on my own car, like changing out turbo, etc. so I’m not to mechanically challenged. The engine has 180k miles on it now and smokes badly for the first 5 minutes of driving and at WOT. I’m pretty sure it’s the rings, but I’m going to do a leakdown and compression test just to be sure. So I guess I will start with the questions. Who sells the best engine rebuild kit if they’re available? What else should I replace “while I’m in there”? Should the bore require any work? I know there made out of exotic metals. What piston rings are the best? I would like for my engine to handle a pretty good amount of boost, probably nothing over 22psi. What could I do to make it stronger now or will it be strong enough with a stock rebuild? I would also like to have some info on breaking these engines in. I would appreciate any info that you think I might need. The class starts in 2 weeks so I have to start ordering parts soon.

Thanks <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

 

I forgot a couple of things. whats the easiest way to remove the engine, and should i replace the valve guides?

Thanks guys

 

Sean
I just rebuilt my 87 951 I think that I can help you avoid some pitfalls and speed you up.
I found that Vertex was the best priced for new parts and they do have an engine rebuild kit. 20th Century auto in Arizona was the best for used/salvaged parts. There are a lot of suppliers out there and the magazine "Excellence" was the best for finding their numbers and for having articles from past issues about things like timing belt and other tech. notes.

Before I forget
Vertex 1-866-668-0660
20th Century auto 1-800-999-4911

I would recommend taking the motor out from under the car. You don't have to remove the radiator, but it gave me the extra room to not mess anything up. You may want to replace the rubber grommets that the radiator sits on anyhow.
Remove the bellhousing from the torque tube at then the bell housing from the block, this will allow you a few more inches of clearance. The forked clutch lever needs to be removed from the bell housing before you do can get the bell housing off the block.
There are a thousand things that I could tell you to do but I think that getting a Haynes manual is an absolute minimum. You would be better off with the Porsche technical books.

You have asked a very comprehensive question here, perhaps if you take it a few steps at a time you will get more responses.

If your graded on getting this thing back together in three weeks you may want to pick another motor. There are a lot of hard to find parts that you will want to get before you tear this thing apart and that you will not discover a need to replace until you have it dismantled. Then rushing to get it back together all in under three weeks may be a little difficult.

I ending up sleeving my block back to factory specs and I installed stock sized pistons made by wiseco that they have on the shelf. The cost savings was huge over the factory pistons.

Good luck and keep me updated on how it goes. I would be happy to help you further.

 

Thanks for the info Snel, i may choose another engine. I wanted to get responses from people that had actualy done this to see if i would be able to. Even if i dont rebuild the engine in that class. i will rebuild it at home in my spare time. i think i may do an easier engine in the class.

Thanks

 

3 weeks cuts it close in the event you need a part. I know I found things along the way that needed to be replaced, and they had to be ordered.

I did a huge write up about the R&R of the engine on the 95. Do a search.. it will pop up.

I got all my stuff from Paragon.

Gasket sets - Head, Block, and Balance Shafts
Bearing sets - Rod and Main
Pinion Bearing
Clutch Components (if replacing)
Std Pistion Rings
Turbo O rings
Oil line crush rings
Belts
Yamabond and close knit roller
Swepco Moly Lube
Various metric nuts and bolts

That is the basics. Now, if you open it up and the bores are scored.. you will need to have it machiened, and new pistons made. That will take more than 3 weeks.

I say do it, only if you know the cylinders are good and smooth, and round! Make sure you check it with a boroscope.

 

I was hoping you would add something Perry. I wish my engine bay could look like yours when/if i rebuild my engine. I think changing out my **** yellow coolant tank would go a long way . I dont think i will build the 951 engine in the class, i will make that a side project when i get the time. I definantly dont want to rush through it and screw something up. I would also like to do some powdercoating and headwork, and im sure i wouldt have the time to do it in the class. I will still keep it porsche, I have a 912 engine sitting around that i can rebuild. And after i sell that i will have more money to workon my own engine. Thanks again for the info. oh and Perry, whens your next product run of the LED gauges. I wouldnt mind having the blue LEDS.

Thanks

 

I cast a set of red the other night.. pretty good but not perfect.. yet. I will do the same with the blues.

I will do another run as soon as I get my car on the road. That is priority #1. I will make a post for the kits sometime in April.

 

Sean... if you want some tips on powdercoating, when you get to it.. drop me a line. I can let you know how I did mine and where to get the stuff. Hell, I might let you borrow my kit.

 

Perry- Once again you are the greatest. Getting your car on the road is definantly the most important thing right now. What do you have left to do? I would like to be on that second production run, if its not allready full. Send me a PM about pricing, etc. I would like to go ahead and send you a money order now while i know i have money. I dont mind to wait till april. I will let you know when i start building my engine, i would love tips on powdercoating. I will probly rip her down next fall unless she blows up this summer.

Thanks again
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

 

Perry,

Do you plan to break in the new engine at OVR's MidOhio DE in April? ;-)

Alan