How do I measure turbo shaft end play - easily
#1
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Location: Tampa, FL - US of A
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How do I measure turbo shaft end play - easily
Hi all,
I just bought a Huntley 'cheater' turbo from someone on the list. I wanted to check the end play on the shaft before installing it, as I can feel back and forth movement. Is this normal? It isn't much, but from what I understand, it doesn't take much.
I want to measure exactly how much movement there is, but I don't have the tools listed in the factory manual. What can I use to do this? Any info would be appreciated.
I just bought a Huntley 'cheater' turbo from someone on the list. I wanted to check the end play on the shaft before installing it, as I can feel back and forth movement. Is this normal? It isn't much, but from what I understand, it doesn't take much.
I want to measure exactly how much movement there is, but I don't have the tools listed in the factory manual. What can I use to do this? Any info would be appreciated.
#3
Nordschleife Master
I wouldn't worry about it. As long as it spins freely. I bought a NEW turbo from SFR 9turbonetics) and their was more end play then on my 75k k26/6 ?!?!?!?!
#4
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Thanks guys,
That makes me feel a lot better. Now I just need to figure out how to make sure that its really a Huntley 'Cheater'. After all, it looks stock! <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
That makes me feel a lot better. Now I just need to figure out how to make sure that its really a Huntley 'Cheater'. After all, it looks stock! <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
#5
make sure the end nut is on tight, the end shaft has 1-2 mm of freeplay at most, any more and its bearings are bad, spining freely dont tell the turbo is good, some new turbos will spin 6-7 turns before slowing down to a stop, others will spin 2-3 turns and stop, with both being perfectly good, some shafts have different tolerances and housings are all different sizes, thus the shaft which is 6-7 inches long can spin freely and be good or bad, but a shaft that has a looose end nut is going to destroy the turbo, and a shaft that you can wiggle side to side 3mm has a shot bearing or bent shaft, free play should be almost nothing at all to 1mm when it is new
#6
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Michael, if you give me some pics, or the numeration on the plate, I can tell you. I had a Huntley Cheater as well, and still have the pics of it. I can match them up if you like.
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Thanks Perry,
I've been following your rebuild web site for a while now. Pretty soon there will be nothing that you don't know about on these cars!
The plate on my turbo reads as follows:
K26
87 099 0953
5326 970 6720
How did you like the HR cheater turbo? Was the lag a lot less then stock? Did you have any problems with it? Which chips/management did you use with it?
Thanks!
I've been following your rebuild web site for a while now. Pretty soon there will be nothing that you don't know about on these cars!
The plate on my turbo reads as follows:
K26
87 099 0953
5326 970 6720
How did you like the HR cheater turbo? Was the lag a lot less then stock? Did you have any problems with it? Which chips/management did you use with it?
Thanks!
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#8
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I ran it totally stock with APE stage 2's at 15psi, and again with the MAF, FPR, exhaust, 18psi. Dyno sheets are on the site, chapter 6.
Lag was less than my old K26/6, no boost drop off at 18psi @ 6000rpm. I liked it, but not enough CFM for 330rwhp, and that is my goal.
The cheater is a K26/8 with a modified compressor wheel and clipped turbine. I'll send you some pics, and you can check the compressor wheel. I will check the numbers when I get home this evening.
Lag was less than my old K26/6, no boost drop off at 18psi @ 6000rpm. I liked it, but not enough CFM for 330rwhp, and that is my goal.
The cheater is a K26/8 with a modified compressor wheel and clipped turbine. I'll send you some pics, and you can check the compressor wheel. I will check the numbers when I get home this evening.