Need help finishing new Turbo install !1
#1
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Location: Wilm, DE
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Need help finishing new Turbo install !1
I need your expertise. I needed a new turbo ASAP so I paid premium for "bolt-on" upgrade. Only extra needed was the included cold-side reducer to mount up to the turbo boot.
Holy S#i%! This was anything but bolt on!
The last hurdle is to mount the cold side 3" inlet to the 1.7/8" turbo boot. Supplied reducer only takes it down to 2.5" and no amount of cutting into the boot will get me there. I can add a second reducer to get down to 2" but I still need to cut another 1.5" of turbo boot so it all fits to mount to "barn door" and airbox. This means I would have to cut out the opening that leads to the Cycling Valve.
If you have gotten past this, please let me know what you did!!! You will recommended for sainthood!
TIA
Bfugok
86 951
<img src="confused.gif" border="0">
Holy S#i%! This was anything but bolt on!
The last hurdle is to mount the cold side 3" inlet to the 1.7/8" turbo boot. Supplied reducer only takes it down to 2.5" and no amount of cutting into the boot will get me there. I can add a second reducer to get down to 2" but I still need to cut another 1.5" of turbo boot so it all fits to mount to "barn door" and airbox. This means I would have to cut out the opening that leads to the Cycling Valve.
If you have gotten past this, please let me know what you did!!! You will recommended for sainthood!
TIA
Bfugok
86 951
<img src="confused.gif" border="0">
#2
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Sounds like its time for a custom J Pipe from Sean951...or call Vision Motorsports, talk to Rob;
<a href="http://www.visionmotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.visionmotorsports.com</a>
see if they have the pc from the Kokeln intake system that replaces the J boot to sell you with adaptor hose for your turbo. Make sure you tell them you want to keep the cycling valve - they will have to add a port for the hose to connect to.
But really, with that bigger turbo, are you sure you don't want a new wastegate, MBC with new boost gauge(get rid of the cycling valve) so you can really tell what boost you are getting? Are you getting new injectors? AFPR? What boost are you planning on running? What chips are you running? You just can't stick one of those bigger turbos on there and expect to have everything just fall into place. Where did you get your turbo from?
If you have time check out the 944 page, the Kokeln Intake system, wastegate, injectors, AFPR, etc..
<a href="http://www.lindseyracing.com" target="_blank">www.lindseyracing.com</a>
Also
<a href="http://www.speedforceracing.com" target="_blank">www.speedforceracing.com</a>
<a href="http://www.visionmotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.visionmotorsports.com</a>
see if they have the pc from the Kokeln intake system that replaces the J boot to sell you with adaptor hose for your turbo. Make sure you tell them you want to keep the cycling valve - they will have to add a port for the hose to connect to.
But really, with that bigger turbo, are you sure you don't want a new wastegate, MBC with new boost gauge(get rid of the cycling valve) so you can really tell what boost you are getting? Are you getting new injectors? AFPR? What boost are you planning on running? What chips are you running? You just can't stick one of those bigger turbos on there and expect to have everything just fall into place. Where did you get your turbo from?
If you have time check out the 944 page, the Kokeln Intake system, wastegate, injectors, AFPR, etc..
<a href="http://www.lindseyracing.com" target="_blank">www.lindseyracing.com</a>
Also
<a href="http://www.speedforceracing.com" target="_blank">www.speedforceracing.com</a>
#3
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Ski,
Thanks for the info. I didn't want to mention the vendors involved because there may be an issue of whehter or not I recieved the right stuff.
The car has aftermarket chips, a test pipe and an A-pillar VDO boost guage. I removed a leaky MBC the PO had installed. Stock turbo leaked like a sieve. No reason to pay $$ just to keep stock, for a bit more you can have something to build on. A borrowed Deltagate is currently installed with a Tial on the way. Seller of turbo indicated stock fuel system was OK up to 14-15 psi so the Tial is sprung for 14 psi.
Thanks for the J-boot info. It sucks that the seller told me I could connect turbo to boot with supplied reducer, right! I should be at W. Glen right now!
Brian
Thanks for the info. I didn't want to mention the vendors involved because there may be an issue of whehter or not I recieved the right stuff.
The car has aftermarket chips, a test pipe and an A-pillar VDO boost guage. I removed a leaky MBC the PO had installed. Stock turbo leaked like a sieve. No reason to pay $$ just to keep stock, for a bit more you can have something to build on. A borrowed Deltagate is currently installed with a Tial on the way. Seller of turbo indicated stock fuel system was OK up to 14-15 psi so the Tial is sprung for 14 psi.
Thanks for the J-boot info. It sucks that the seller told me I could connect turbo to boot with supplied reducer, right! I should be at W. Glen right now!
Brian
#4
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I'll tell you, with that 3" inlet, even at 14-15 psi, the fuel pressure might be good but I think you are going to need more fuel to go with the new amount of cfm generated by that turbo, which then could throw off your chips, and the seller of the turbo missed the connection at the turbo; what else did he miss?
I would defintely go to the dyno before the track. You do not want to run lean with that turbo, you will blow a head gasket!
I would defintely go to the dyno before the track. You do not want to run lean with that turbo, you will blow a head gasket!
#5
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As a reference, my Huntley Stage 3 Turbo made 8psi before it overwhelmed my stock fuel system. After upgrading injectors, the motor starts to ping at around 12psi (305rwhp) using 91 unleaded.
#6
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It might take some searching but you can probably find a 2" to either 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 or 2 7/8 reducer at a muffler shop or Auto store. Saw it off to length required then trim the J pipe back to get the 2" side to fit. Then on the Turbo side get some flat Nitrile rubber sheet say 1/4" thick to match the 2 1/2 diameter or 1/8 thick to match the 2 3/4 diameter. Trim and cut this to exactly fit the od of the reducer, then using slicone glue it to the reducer to make a 3" od seal that will then match your 3" od turbo inlet.
Otherwise if you have the time call Turbonetics and get a 3" to 2" reducer and use a straight 2" pipe to go into your J pipe.
Dan
Otherwise if you have the time call Turbonetics and get a 3" to 2" reducer and use a straight 2" pipe to go into your J pipe.
Dan
#7
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Thanks for everyone's input. I trimmed the j-boot to just before the nipple leading to the cycling valve and cut off the outside ribbing so it is smooth. I inserted a small section of 2"od pipe inside the j-boot for support, then slipped the j-boot into the turbo inlet 2.5" reducer opening. Everything is clamped down tight and secure. As it is, the end of the j-boot comes to @ 3/4" from the turbo inlet. There wasn't room for any other reducers.
To determine and avoid a lean condition an adj. FPR is going in and I am heading to a dyno for testing.
The Glen will have to wait yet again...
To determine and avoid a lean condition an adj. FPR is going in and I am heading to a dyno for testing.
The Glen will have to wait yet again...
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#8
Professor of Pending Projects
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Do you have any photos on what you did... look at my new turbo and the adapter that was sent... bolt on? yeah right!
This is supposed to be all that is needed to install the new turbo with the existing j-boot.
I am looking for suggestions... bfugok is this what you received? Photos would be welcome...
This is supposed to be all that is needed to install the new turbo with the existing j-boot.
I am looking for suggestions... bfugok is this what you received? Photos would be welcome...
#9
Jaime,
You should have gotten a 2.5" to 2.75" reducer.You put the reducer on the turbo.Slide the pipe into it. Cut the rubber J boot back right behind the nipple for the cycling valve.Put the rubber J-boot on the adaptor pipe. The intake is now installed. It is not the prettiest set-up but it does work. I have some pictures of it installed somewhere on a customers car.I will look for them and email them to you.
You should have gotten a 2.5" to 2.75" reducer.You put the reducer on the turbo.Slide the pipe into it. Cut the rubber J boot back right behind the nipple for the cycling valve.Put the rubber J-boot on the adaptor pipe. The intake is now installed. It is not the prettiest set-up but it does work. I have some pictures of it installed somewhere on a customers car.I will look for them and email them to you.
#11
Professor of Pending Projects
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[quote]Originally posted by ken louie:
<strong>Jaime what's the spec on that garret turbo?
thanks
ken Louie
86 951
79 930</strong><hr></blockquote>
SFR Level 2 with Level 3 impeller. 2.75 inlet #8 hot side.
<strong>Jaime what's the spec on that garret turbo?
thanks
ken Louie
86 951
79 930</strong><hr></blockquote>
SFR Level 2 with Level 3 impeller. 2.75 inlet #8 hot side.
#12
Professor of Pending Projects
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[quote]Originally posted by TurboTim:
<strong>Jaime,
You should have gotten a 2.5" to 2.75" reducer.You put the reducer on the turbo.Slide the pipe into it. Cut the rubber J boot back right behind the nipple for the cycling valve.Put the rubber J-boot on the adaptor pipe. The intake is now installed. It is not the prettiest set-up but it does work. I have some pictures of it installed somewhere on a customers car.I will look for them and email them to you.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Tim, thanks! I will appreciate getting the photos. Email address is wachuko67@netscape.net
BTW - I sent you an email
<strong>Jaime,
You should have gotten a 2.5" to 2.75" reducer.You put the reducer on the turbo.Slide the pipe into it. Cut the rubber J boot back right behind the nipple for the cycling valve.Put the rubber J-boot on the adaptor pipe. The intake is now installed. It is not the prettiest set-up but it does work. I have some pictures of it installed somewhere on a customers car.I will look for them and email them to you.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Tim, thanks! I will appreciate getting the photos. Email address is wachuko67@netscape.net
BTW - I sent you an email