bang for buck EBC
03-12-2011, 09:08 PM
#16
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i think anything beyond 300$ and it should do a little other stuff like shift lite turbo timer even afm controller.
I like pnumatic boost control and leaving the klr cycling valve intact i found i had pretty solid 21 psi and it it drop to 18 psi on bad fuel so all the klr jaz was still working.
I like pnumatic boost control and leaving the klr cycling valve intact i found i had pretty solid 21 psi and it it drop to 18 psi on bad fuel so all the klr jaz was still working.
03-12-2011, 10:25 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
The thing that drives me NUTS is that I have never found a stand alone boost controller that would allow you to map boost against the throttle position sensors. It's what kills driveability compared to OEM or full stand-alone systems like MOTEC. We just get full boost, all the time, rather than being able to give 50% throttle and get 50% boost...
03-13-2011, 01:24 AM
#18
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i think anything beyond 300$ and it should do a little other stuff like shift lite turbo timer even afm controller.
I like pnumatic boost control and leaving the klr cycling valve intact i found i had pretty solid 21 psi and it it drop to 18 psi on bad fuel so all the klr jaz was still working.
I like pnumatic boost control and leaving the klr cycling valve intact i found i had pretty solid 21 psi and it it drop to 18 psi on bad fuel so all the klr jaz was still working.
03-13-2011, 03:51 AM
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If you install it and want a HI/LO switch, tell me and ill do a quick write up on how to do it. I did it for a mate.
03-13-2011, 10:00 AM
#21
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there are several pneumatic set ups
and a very effective one is run a regulated supply to the close side of dual port waste gate . along with the full factory plumbing set up as well as a inline check/boost enhancer .. .
you set the check valve on the bench to about 13 psi and you slowly wind on the the other regulator until the boost comes up.. the boost enhancer will keep the gate compleatly closed until you have 13 psi the the waste gate and spring and the pressure differences sets the boost ...
the cycling valve bleeds of a few psi of boost on the way to the waste gate wich scales the signal down and increases the boost .. it any thing go''s like temp of knock the cyling valve will close and then the full signal is sent to the waste gate ..
and a very effective one is run a regulated supply to the close side of dual port waste gate . along with the full factory plumbing set up as well as a inline check/boost enhancer .. .
you set the check valve on the bench to about 13 psi and you slowly wind on the the other regulator until the boost comes up.. the boost enhancer will keep the gate compleatly closed until you have 13 psi the the waste gate and spring and the pressure differences sets the boost ...
the cycling valve bleeds of a few psi of boost on the way to the waste gate wich scales the signal down and increases the boost .. it any thing go''s like temp of knock the cyling valve will close and then the full signal is sent to the waste gate ..
03-13-2011, 10:27 AM
#22
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there are several pneumatic set ups
and a very effective one is run a regulated supply to the close side of dual port waste gate . along with the full factory plumbing set up as well as a inline check/boost enhancer .. .
you set the check valve on the bench to about 13 psi and you slowly wind on the the other regulator until the boost comes up.. the boost enhancer will keep the gate compleatly closed until you have 13 psi the the waste gate and spring and the pressure differences sets the boost ...
the cycling valve bleeds of a few psi of boost on the way to the waste gate wich scales the signal down and increases the boost .. it any thing go''s like temp of knock the cyling valve will close and then the full signal is sent to the waste gate ..
and a very effective one is run a regulated supply to the close side of dual port waste gate . along with the full factory plumbing set up as well as a inline check/boost enhancer .. .
you set the check valve on the bench to about 13 psi and you slowly wind on the the other regulator until the boost comes up.. the boost enhancer will keep the gate compleatly closed until you have 13 psi the the waste gate and spring and the pressure differences sets the boost ...
the cycling valve bleeds of a few psi of boost on the way to the waste gate wich scales the signal down and increases the boost .. it any thing go''s like temp of knock the cyling valve will close and then the full signal is sent to the waste gate ..
I'm looking for something that i can adjust boost in the car and have multiple boost settings.
03-13-2011, 01:34 PM
#23
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i think anything beyond 300$ and it should do a little other stuff like shift lite turbo timer even afm controller.
I like pnumatic boost control and leaving the klr cycling valve intact i found i had pretty solid 21 psi and it it drop to 18 psi on bad fuel so all the klr jaz was still working.
I like pnumatic boost control and leaving the klr cycling valve intact i found i had pretty solid 21 psi and it it drop to 18 psi on bad fuel so all the klr jaz was still working.
Gear based boost
Over boost shutoff
Aux output (programmable by RPM and Boost)
Programmable warning lights (2 out puts programmable by PRM or Boost)
Audible Alarm (Programmable by RPM or Boost)
Correction for high RPM Boost Rolloff (nice for K26/6)
6 programmable boost settings
External input for controls – like sequential boost switching
And of course lots of ways to tweak the boost control!
I tend to use either the highly programmable stuff like the eboost2 or the MBC. When used with standalones and a good dual port wastegate the MBC does a pretty good job regulating boost.
12-26-2013, 11:33 AM
#28
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I always wonder that anyone would complicate an otherwise pretty bullet-proof mechanical boost system by interposing an electronic circuit that is made of bubble gum wrappers and a solenoid that cost at most $1.00.....they're junk.
12-26-2013, 11:33 AM
#29
You can program the EBC to keep the solenoid shut until it sees a certain amount of boost, THEN open, thus spooling the turbo up a little quicker. An MBC, on the other hand, is open all the time. If I had the gain setting turned up, it spooled up fast, but it had a tendency to overshoot my desired boost level (spike) and then settle down.
It's not SUPER noticeable... but it's noticeable. I don't know that I'd consider it worth the price difference based on that alone.
What I liked about the EBC over the MBC was that I could have it set, and then with the touch of a button, turn it off, or turn it up (with the 2nd boost setting).
I'd still have it had I not killed it (a zip tie failed, let the solenoid wires drop, they hit the manifold, melted, and shorted the driver circuit out) but I put an MBC in its place (didn't feel like dropping another couple hundred bucks) and haven't really felt like I lost anything. In fact I prefer the slightly slower but smoother spool up of the MBC.
12-26-2013, 12:43 PM
#30
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Hey bruce, What did you end up with mate?
I mounted mine on off the firewall sort of. I had a thread sticking out near where the cruise control unit sits i let it hang there and used a piece of rubber and treaded it as a nut and holds it in place. (looks like where the factory zip tie would go on but theres no cables running there.
I mounted mine on off the firewall sort of. I had a thread sticking out near where the cruise control unit sits i let it hang there and used a piece of rubber and treaded it as a nut and holds it in place. (looks like where the factory zip tie would go on but theres no cables running there.
