Big Reds vs S4 brakes
08-29-2002, 10:33 AM
#17
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Just to chime in with my $.02.
I have the BR's on the fronts and rears with the 993TT rotors, pagid orange pads, and an adjustable brake bias valve. I found the stock bias valve gave to much brake to the rear causing premature lockup (due to weight transfer, IMO) and an ungraceful exit from the track.
I am still playing with the bias valve for its optimal setting, but the brakes are great. This is on my track only 951.
I have the BR's on the fronts and rears with the 993TT rotors, pagid orange pads, and an adjustable brake bias valve. I found the stock bias valve gave to much brake to the rear causing premature lockup (due to weight transfer, IMO) and an ungraceful exit from the track.
I am still playing with the bias valve for its optimal setting, but the brakes are great. This is on my track only 951.
08-29-2002, 12:01 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Pocono Pines PA
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Duke.
The part number for the 5/33 bar unit is 928.355.305.02 $70
You could get it from a dealer or Paragon Products.
On Non ABS cars the regulator screws onto the brake master cylinder(and the brake line goes into the Bias regulator. Very easy access and easy to change.
Those with ABS, you are not so lucky. The Bias regulator screws onto the ABS unit which is in the passenger side wheel well(towards the passenger side door) You need to remove the fender inner plastic lining. Not much room to work with in the area.
The bias regulator has a male end and a female end. The Bias regulator screws into the ABS unit vertically(male end downward)
The brake line goes into the female end of the Bias regulator on top.
Undo fastening nut and remove the brake line from the Bias regulator. Unscrew Bias regulatior from the ABS unit and screw in the " New " regulator.
Reattach the brake line into the bias regulator.
Bleed rear brakes. Done.
The whole procedure is easy. It is just that the limited space makes it a PITA.
BTW, 5/33 unit will work great on the street as well.
The part number for the 5/33 bar unit is 928.355.305.02 $70
You could get it from a dealer or Paragon Products.
On Non ABS cars the regulator screws onto the brake master cylinder(and the brake line goes into the Bias regulator. Very easy access and easy to change.
Those with ABS, you are not so lucky. The Bias regulator screws onto the ABS unit which is in the passenger side wheel well(towards the passenger side door) You need to remove the fender inner plastic lining. Not much room to work with in the area.
The bias regulator has a male end and a female end. The Bias regulator screws into the ABS unit vertically(male end downward)
The brake line goes into the female end of the Bias regulator on top.
Undo fastening nut and remove the brake line from the Bias regulator. Unscrew Bias regulatior from the ABS unit and screw in the " New " regulator.
Reattach the brake line into the bias regulator.
Bleed rear brakes. Done.
The whole procedure is easy. It is just that the limited space makes it a PITA.
BTW, 5/33 unit will work great on the street as well.
08-29-2002, 04:58 PM
#19
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I'm using BR's on front with Alcon race rotors on my '89 (spacers required to move calipers out a little from stock mounting) and '86 front calipers in the rear, with Pagid orange pads. I also have a twin master cyl setup with 7/8" front and 3/4 rear bores. This I use on street and track and have no bias issues( bias bar between masters helps) but am concerned about how far out the rear caliper pistons extend when the pads get worn. If the thicker and larger in diameter "s" rotors are used in back, an adapter would be needed to mount the calipers for the larger diameter rotor, Does anyone know if this piece is available? or where I could get one made? Also I have Alcon race rotors and would like to replace them due to wear and need a vendor for them, Any suggestions? if I buy from my tech it will cost$$$ and I am moving gradually to doing all my own work anyway
08-29-2002, 08:11 PM
#20
Race Director
For the price, you might as well get an adjustable brake-proportioning valve. This will allow you to dial in just about ANY front/rear balance you want:
This one's only $60: <a href="https://secure.vbcomm.net/store/detail.asp?part=A0707+BLACK" target="_blank">Tilton adjustable brake-prop valve</a>. They also have one that's got 7 pre-defined settings with a quick-adjust lever you can install on the transmission next to the shift-lever if you want to make adjustments while you're on the track.
This one's only $60: <a href="https://secure.vbcomm.net/store/detail.asp?part=A0707+BLACK" target="_blank">Tilton adjustable brake-prop valve</a>. They also have one that's got 7 pre-defined settings with a quick-adjust lever you can install on the transmission next to the shift-lever if you want to make adjustments while you're on the track.
08-30-2002, 06:46 AM
#21
Race Director
I just upgraded my brakes TO S4 units with floating Coleman rotors. I can't imagine having better braking power! Now you guys have got me wondering.....
I've only used them for autocross so far, I hope they perform well for an upcoming DE. I might look for a brake cooling kit before-hand..
Tifo
I've only used them for autocross so far, I hope they perform well for an upcoming DE. I might look for a brake cooling kit before-hand..
Tifo
