INURGRL951

ehall you need two pair of vise grip needle nose on the tappered sides of one pair of the vise grips grove the outside with an angle grinder so when it is clamped on the not makes a flat surface. Get the second pair and then clamp the first pair to secure the vise grips from slipping creating a lock then twist and wala!! never failed me got a pair of vise grips i have used just for this a handful of times. Hope I got to you in time there. I may have a pic on my other pc to display what I mean.

ehall

couldn't even drill it out. We broke FOUR bits trying to drill it out. I've torched like Hiroshima. The thing ain't budgin!...so it's staying. MM951, I hope you were telling the truth! lol

Tom M'Guinn

Get thyself to Ace Hardware and buy a set of COBALT bits. Those babies will cut throught that old crumbly bolt stub like butter... (really, they will).

Crazy Eddie

He tell-ith the truth for thee have witnessed it thyself

ehall

The problem is that it isn't at all crumbly.

Crazy Eddie

Let me add.... you may want to just buy one bit, as the are very expensive!
I drilled right through the old stud in the water pump in no time ... It was so clean I just chased the threads, and put in a new stud ...

Crazy Eddie

Here is a shot of the drilled out stud ... with a cobalt bit

Tedro951

+1 on the cobalt bits. I probably have hundreds of cheap, black and decker, you name it bits, that are useless except on aluminum and PVC....

Not cheap, but once you use good bits, you'll be able to tell instantly when you accidentally chuck a black and decker bit up.

Van

I know you don't have a welder, but see if you can bribe someone with beer to come help you. MM951 had a similar situation with a broken lower shock mount bolt. After weeks of fu*king with it, he brought it over to me, and in a few minutes it was out.

It's almost like magic, I'm telling ya!

azmi951

To center the bit on the stud use a drill bushing. set the head on and put the drill bushing in the hole. This will allow the drill to center on the stud. If you order from McMaster they ship next day for about $5. Also look at their drills, they have carbide tiped bits that will drill through grade 12.9 bolts (the really hard ones).
http://www.mcmaster.com/#twist-drill-bits/=b8y290

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-bushi...liners/=b8y0ol

All told you should have about $20 into tools to drill it.

JohnKoaWood

If I know elliot the marine, he will go 2K into a new motor before waiting the day for the $20 in tools to arive...

Not hatin, just sayin...

BTW, E, you never did call or are you still pulling on that beer?

azmi951

Marines can break anything. I have some friends at Davis Monthan AFB here in Tucson. Some Marines flew in an F18 of the first block and rumor is the Air Force boys were so scared of the condition of it they decommissioned it on the spot and sent it to the bone yard.

Tom M'Guinn

The only problem is that this particular bolt gets corroded and doesn't weld well. I had 3/4 of an inch sticking out and kept welding nuts on, only to have them twist off another chunk of the bolt. I could weld to the bolt, but the part under the weld had the strength of plastic and just kept breaking off....

MM951

I still believe leaving the broken stud in is better than breaking that tab off of the block. Like I said before, 64K+ miles on my engine with that stud broken (bought the block with it broken - didn't know until it arrived!) after spending too much time trying to remove it and bringing it to various machine shops etc. The bolt is 15 ft lbs, if the other bolt is still good I don't think it will be a real issue.

JohnKoaWood

And for me, this is the ONLY bolt weeping on my NA... it is torqued correctly, but weeping from the bolt head! If it doesn't stop, I will be pulling it out, and RTVing the hell out of it.. if it still weeps I will be tapping it, helicoiling it, using sealant and re-installing the bolt...

This is the ONLY fluid leak I have on my NA currently, and I want it GONE!

BTW Mike, did you get my PM RE your M3?