JohnKoaWood

Well, now that I see the pics... damn.. if it makes you feel any better I just re-installed the head on my NA, want to guess the ONLY spot weeping any coolant... exact same frigging bolt... I am considering the drill/helicoil/new bolt route as well, although there isn't much in the way of space in the head there for a larger bolt head!

Call me tomorrow, an we can kick around some ideas!

OH, and for cleaning everything up, I used Permatex gasket removal gell and a scuffing pad.. add elbow grease and the block / head / cam tower will SHINE!




I had my head rebuilt, but I believe you already have a replacement head right? (not to mention it appears your #1 exhaust isn't fully closed!)

Tom M'Guinn

No need for a bigger bolt head. You drill it bigger for the helicoil, but then the helicoil insert brings it back down to a perfect M8 like the original...

Crazy Eddie

Hey Elliott
Hope all is well
Sorry about your busted bolt .. Tom helped me, when I was dumb enough to try to remove a water pump stud, out of the block, that in retrospect, was perfectly fine
Luckily, I was able to drill and tap to the orig size, but I did use those Heilcoils on the timing belt cover threads that are in the block. The freakin dealer drilled them out, and never replaced the thread. They worked like a charm !!
Good luck bud
Regards
Ed

Techno Duck

This one is a pretty common one.. stupid waterjacket design.

Anyhow as mentioned it looks like you should be able to get a pair of vice-grips on it. I heated it up as much as i could using a propane torch and it came right now. The best advice i can offer is to make sure you use a GOOD pair of vicegrips with a good set of teeth on the jaws.

ehall

#1 has a LOT of carbon crap on it. I have some serious(1/8 inch thick) carbon build up on #4 piston top. #'s 2 and 3 have some light carbon. What's the best way to remove that crap without getting it inside the block?

Yep, the head is brand new with great machine work, o-ringed and larger(2.7ltr) intake valves. I'll take your advice on the cleaning of the rest. I have to pull the front crank seal as well. There's a good amount of leakage there.
Obviously I'm doing the wp/gasket/belts and rollers and any other front seals that need replacing. I need a seal driver though. What do you use to get them squarely into place?

ehall

Yep! Soaking now! I'm going to try to heat and grip first. It looks like a lot of guys have had success with that, but I ain't skeered! I'll drill that bitch like BP on a budget if I need too!

ehall

How could you get that hideous stud chromed if you didn't pull it!

I may go without belt covers this time. I have the belly pans and I'd prefer to "F.O.D. walk" the belts, rather than find out too late.

ehall

Seriously, you may be the front runner for 951 member of the year! Thank you!

ehall

yep! got em!
I need to find a cheap propane torch. Anyone got a good deal on one from some big chain store?

ehall

BTW, what is the sensor protruding into that water jacket? I may need to replace mine/

theedge

Its called the DME temp sensor. Used to sense coolant temp for fueling. Quite important. And also not too expensive, $15-20 I think.

ramius665

I used Gumout carb cleaner and a toothbrush to get the carbon off of the pistons, then a shopvac to suck everything up.

I used oversize metric deep sockets as seal drivers. Worked fine.

ehall

Thanks. I'll pick one up. I knew it was one of two sensors that look almost identical.

ehall

cool. Thanks.

Okay, off to get this done.

Thanks to everyone! RL never fails.

JohnKoaWood

no worries nOOb!

and good luck!

metric socket for seal driver worked like a charm here too!