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new guru chips, hesitation between 2-3k rpm

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Old 07-11-2003, 04:10 PM
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kasturbo
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I want to say that I'm on version 7, but it may be 8. Do you have my order in your system still? Do you think that this could be a afm issue? Thanks Danno.

EDIT: I just verified that I have your version 8 chips. Thanks.
Old 07-11-2003, 04:23 PM
  #62  
Danno
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Ok, version8 is really the latest. What you may need is an idle-adjustment to your AFM. It actually doesn't adjust the AFM, but really just an air-bypass like the idle-screw on the TB. It's called the CO adjuster in the book because a shop would use it while monitoring the exhaust gas and adjust the AFM. So it sounds like you need to send more air past the AFM to get a leaner mixture.
Old 07-11-2003, 04:36 PM
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kasturbo
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How do I adjust this? Do you think that I should be on a dyno so that I can see what good I am doing. Remember the car runs fine when it is warmed up.
Old 07-11-2003, 05:55 PM
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Danno
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Hmmm, it could also be the air-temp sensor. Do the check that Jaak posted. It may not be the CO mixture adjustment at all. If the air- temp sensor is reading colder than actual, the DME will add too much fuel under cold-start enrichment and you'll end up with big white cloud and stumbling idles.
Old 07-11-2003, 07:54 PM
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RJP 951
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Danno, I just realized your avitar has a car in the picture!

Does the CO adjustment only affect idle or low-rpm A/F mixture? Just wondering if I should mess with this since my A/F gauge is reading a little rich across the full RPM range.

Ron
Old 07-11-2003, 10:40 PM
  #66  
Danno
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"I just realized your avitar has a car in the picture!"

What !@#? You didn't see the big 993 Twist wheels and the bright Big Red calipers either? <img border="0" alt="[nono]" title="" src="graemlins/nono.gif" /> Too bad Katie's fat now...

Rich across the entire range would mean the spring-preload on the flapper door needs to be adjusted. This would affect idle as well.
Old 07-11-2003, 11:13 PM
  #67  
RJP 951
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>You didn't see the big 993 Twist wheels and the bright Big Red calipers either?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Umm, I guess the headlights caught my attention.
Old 07-13-2003, 12:26 AM
  #68  
kasturbo
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Alan C.:
<strong>Danno,

Who's Jim? I use Colletti Motorsports in Dayton to do most of my dyno runs. Steve is a great guy to deal with if any of you are in the Dayton, OH area. There are shops in Cincinnati where I live but I drive to Dayton.

Sorry for taking the thread off course.

Alan C.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Alan do they use a wide band there were you get your car dynoed? Do you know off hand how much it ran you to have the car dynoed and tuned there?
Old 07-13-2003, 04:39 PM
  #69  
awilson40
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Well, I Just got finished doing this check...2.05 v at 3k rpm, 3rd gear level ground required about 5 clicks richer on the AFM spring and it was running to rich. Felt like it was loading up. At the original setting I was getting about 1.85v so I ended up with it 2 clicks richer and am getting about 1.95 v. Its a touchy setting. I read 1.95v then add a slight incline or head wind and I'm getting 2.1v
Idle is .65-.7v



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