Ball joints + alignment...what else? DD/track 951
#1
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Ball joints + alignment...what else? DD/track 951
I've got an 86 951 and am in the process of replacing the ball joints. Knowing that I will need an alignment after the ball joints are on, what else (that would effect the alignment) would you guys recommend replacing before I get an alignment done?
The car is currently a DD, but I have plans to bring it on the track in the near future. So far the parts I've got to install before I get an alignment are:
-Ball joint rebuild kit ( w/ solid bushings CNC milled from alluminum bronze)
-Racers Edge front-of-front delrin control arm bushings
-968 style caster mounts
I was also thinking of buying a kit for the tie rods as well.
Thanks guys
The car is currently a DD, but I have plans to bring it on the track in the near future. So far the parts I've got to install before I get an alignment are:
-Ball joint rebuild kit ( w/ solid bushings CNC milled from alluminum bronze)
-Racers Edge front-of-front delrin control arm bushings
-968 style caster mounts
I was also thinking of buying a kit for the tie rods as well.
Thanks guys
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Maybe I worded my question wrong, but I'm looking more for a short term answer to what I should replace before getting an alignment done. My goal is to only have to get an alignment once and not have to get a second alignment a short period of time later after finding out that it would be smart to replace a certain part at the same time that I install the listed parts above.
I wanted to state that the car will see track use in the future, but not right away. I'm in the stage of sorting the car out first while it is still my DD.
Pads and brake fluid will definitely be new before the car sees the track.
I wanted to state that the car will see track use in the future, but not right away. I'm in the stage of sorting the car out first while it is still my DD.
Pads and brake fluid will definitely be new before the car sees the track.
#6
Drifting
What's your budget and what is your end goal for the car?
How good are the tie rod ends?
Control arm bushings/caster blocks?
New struts?
It depends how far you want to go "while you're in there"
How good are the tie rod ends?
Control arm bushings/caster blocks?
New struts?
It depends how far you want to go "while you're in there"
#7
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Look, if nothing's broke, don't fix it! Take it to the track and enjoy it. If you're a beginner, you don't need any of the go-fast stuff half this board talks about.
You can go all out and rebuild the shocks, put in stiffer springs, new sway bar bushings, adjustable camber plates and new tierods... But, seriously, you'd rather pay $2500 now so you only pay for one $100 alignment, than pay for another alignment a year or two down the road?
You can go all out and rebuild the shocks, put in stiffer springs, new sway bar bushings, adjustable camber plates and new tierods... But, seriously, you'd rather pay $2500 now so you only pay for one $100 alignment, than pay for another alignment a year or two down the road?
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I can definitely see where you're coming from Van, as I am on a budget. I'm eventually wanting to start out doing PCA DE at Road Atlanta. I don't plan to have any upgrades on the car for the DE other than basic things like good pads and fresh high temp brake fuild. I've done a little research and know that the issue of ball joints comes up a lot on these cars. Since my ball joints are pretty much shot fixing them is a must, and since the control arms are going to come off anyways when the ball joints get installed, I went ahead and bought new caster blocks and control arm bushings too.
Shocks, springs, sway bars and other handling upgrades I expect to do after I enjoy the car in stock trim for a few DE's. Right now, I'm mostly just trying to knock out recommended maintenance so I can have a good track experience.
Shocks, springs, sway bars and other handling upgrades I expect to do after I enjoy the car in stock trim for a few DE's. Right now, I'm mostly just trying to knock out recommended maintenance so I can have a good track experience.
#9
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Take the car to a good, competent shop that works on Porsches that are driven on the track - a shop that's active in your PCA region is always a good start. They will be able to truly advise you better on what routine maintenance your car needs than any of us on the internet.
Realistically, if your car passes the pre-event tech inspection (which includes things like a minimum amount of pad material, brake fluid flush within a year, no suspension play, etc.), you'll be fine for your first several events as a beginner.
The truth is: if you're a novice, you're just not going to be pushing the car that hard. Even in regular street trim, these cars are robust enough for beginner track use.
Realistically, if your car passes the pre-event tech inspection (which includes things like a minimum amount of pad material, brake fluid flush within a year, no suspension play, etc.), you'll be fine for your first several events as a beginner.
The truth is: if you're a novice, you're just not going to be pushing the car that hard. Even in regular street trim, these cars are robust enough for beginner track use.
#11
I would bleed the brakes say no more then two week before and event, I do it the day before. Use brake fluid with a higher boiling point then normal stock. Don't need to spend a fortune, do some searching. Brake pads should be more then 50%. If you don't know what is one your current setup, metal masters are a good, inexpensive pad that does well on both street and track. Higher temp pads just get really expensive and you will not need them to start.
Tires need to be in good order, speed rated and you need to know what pressure to run them at. You don't need (or want) R compound to start with. If in doubt, start with stock pressure and adjust from there. Ask for help from people with similar cars. There is plenty of good advice to be had at a track.
Like Van said, you don't need much to start...but I like to instruct in cars that I know will stop.
Tires need to be in good order, speed rated and you need to know what pressure to run them at. You don't need (or want) R compound to start with. If in doubt, start with stock pressure and adjust from there. Ask for help from people with similar cars. There is plenty of good advice to be had at a track.
Like Van said, you don't need much to start...but I like to instruct in cars that I know will stop.
#12
Drifting
Green,
Good call on wanting to get onto the track. I won't repeat the good advice from above but sounds like you've got everything covered. Be sure to check your sway bar bushings for deterioration. Not that it would require a re-alignment if replacing, but could lead to some funky handling.
Do you know what alignment specs you're going to use? Stock alignment tends to lead to significant understeer. If you're wanting to do a single alignment, suggest you get smart on what specs you want to use. When I was running dual-purpose, I ran ~0.5 degrees more negative camber in the front than factory specs and that seemed to dial out most of the understeer without affecting road manners.
Good call on wanting to get onto the track. I won't repeat the good advice from above but sounds like you've got everything covered. Be sure to check your sway bar bushings for deterioration. Not that it would require a re-alignment if replacing, but could lead to some funky handling.
Do you know what alignment specs you're going to use? Stock alignment tends to lead to significant understeer. If you're wanting to do a single alignment, suggest you get smart on what specs you want to use. When I was running dual-purpose, I ran ~0.5 degrees more negative camber in the front than factory specs and that seemed to dial out most of the understeer without affecting road manners.
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My intentions were to get a factory alignment, but I'm willing to take whatever advice you have to give the car a more nuetral feel. Although, I don't want an alignment that will cause excessive tire wear on the street. I will eventually buy 968 sway bars, which from what I hear will help get rid of some of the understeer as well. I'll be sure to give the sway bar bushings a check.