AScholtes

Any tips on how to get to the damn thing... looks like it is going to be 0 fun to get out, especially when you have big hands like me.

running_cold924

good time for a new blue hose....other than that, little "girly' hands are a great help for this task, especially on a turbo car...

AScholtes

Yeah, I have a new blue hose and a new slave cylinder hose to go in as well. Replacing everything. I can tell you, my hands arent going to fit back there...at all...

elargentino

Use a 1/4 drive 14 inch extension and a u-joint.
Put 1 layer of electrical tape around the u-joint so it doesn't flop on you.
Don't try to do it without the right tools....hypertension invitation.

PorscheDoc

I highly recommend picking up 1/4" drive wobble sockets in 8, 10, and 13mm (sears or snap on, etc). They have the wobble built in and fit in tighter spots than a 1/4" socket plus and basic universal joint.

You only need a 13mm for this job, but the others come in handy all the time.

AScholtes

I have a set of wobble heads for the job.... its just getting back there so I dont drop the nuts... etc

Ski

leave the rod attached on the inside just change the main cylinder part.

Bearing grease inside the socket.

JohnKoaWood

Let the nuts drop, fish em out with a magnetic retriever once the cylinder is out..

OR

Smear a little bit of RTV inside the socket before removing the nuts.. if you smear enough RTV it will even capture washers for you too!

Also good for installing hardware into spots you cant reach.. dab of RTV, insert nut, another dab of RTV, insert washer... snake whole mess into location, and turn slowly with fingers untill nut starts on the stud.. makes for a neat little install where you cant reach, and the rtv wont hurt a thing!

I quite often use mechanical fingers and magnetic retrievers to retrieve hardware rather than worying about trying to make it not drop, I just let it drop and worry about it later!

quinnfiske

leave the rod attached on the inside just change the main cylinder part.


+1 This is what I did. Just for good measure, I crawled under the dash to make sure the rubber boot slid over the rod properly (it did)

Start the pressure line in the end of the master cylinder while the unit is still loose. The threads seem to line up better that way.