JohnKoaWood

Last pic that got posted got the poster banned...

PM me your e-mail and I will send you the info.. it is coming out of Sweden from Duke (I bought it off him, as his old car is gone, and he is working on teh new car), but is made in Finland...

I am getting a second one from a different source for my 951, almost the same design, and uses the same bushings...

The solid mount transmits EVERY gearbox noise into the body of the car.. very anoying.. I have used it for about 20K miles or so, and it drives me insane.. hence it is coming out..

JohnKoaWood

Machinists always hold it up.. but a good one is worth the wait!

Lincoln is a good solid supplier, Hobart and Miller are less solid.. make sure whatever you buy is recently made, and comes with certs... don't settle for second rate supplies or you will get what you pay for....

95ONE

thanks John..

I'm not absolutely sure how hot those torque tubes get. The aluminum expansion might get just enough out of tolerance the might let them get a little looser.. BUT, they really dont' need to be in there extremely tight. But an allen screw for each one might be added security, I dont know;. Ill do the math and let you guys know.

TonyG

Dude... you better get some metal in those fender liners... because if you don't, and you lose a tire at speed, it will rip that entire quarter panel off the car, possibly the mirror, and.. by the looks of what's left of the pan of the car, possibly a whole lot more.

And I'm speaking from experience.


TonyG

95ONE

Tony, those are the rear. The fronts are still stock. And I have no doubt the damage will be great to the body if hit. As a builder, the less I have to replace the better..... I got this.

TonyG

I can see it's the rear. And it's not that the damage will be great if hit (it will no doubt... and if you so much as rub shoulders with someone, that quarter panel will come part and probably cut a tire down), but if you have a tire go down at speed, it will come apart, and it will rip the entire quarter panel off the car, and probably damage the door and mirror as well. And since there's no real rear structural metal left, a blown tire could potentially damage other structures as well (seriously damage).

I've had it happen to me and I've seen it happen to other people as well.

You are far better to fabricate some light weight aluminum fender liners to contain a blown tire. The weight is minimal. And they will prevent a LOT of damage to the car if (and when...) you have a tire come apart at speed. And it will happen... it's just a question of when.


TonyG

boost feen

Dont forget once you break 2000lbs you get into superlight territory and thus once you go over 100mph the car will become even lighter so downforce downforce downforce! Large rear wing, front splitter with added downforce multipliers, underbody aerodynamic panels, along with all factory under engine and tray pieces.

This will all help keep a car this light stuck to the ground at 120mph?

95ONE

I guess its the door and mirror damage comment that's confusing me a bit. But yeah, I see what you're saying from your experience, but at a loss since I know I have more back there than most fiber race cars I've seen. Thank you for the sincere concern, and I do appreciate it. But it's just an understood part of this class of car, and I understand the risks, as should the other drivers.. have you seen landjets car? All said, I am still thinking seriously about a sort of bumper bar there like I have at the rear bumper.

preaching to the choir. I am going through great pains to make sure all of this happens. Flat bottom, Suction air pocket at front, canards, rear diffuser and large spoiler. Of course, most of the paneling you see is gearing towards this goal.

TonyG

When the tire goes flat, the side walls will over heat and the tire will start to come apart. Then what happens is that a piece of it starts slapping around. And that piece gets bigger and bigger. The force of that piece of tire slapping around at 100mph is enough to rip the quarter panel, those little fender brackets, and anything else in the way... right off the car. And that's exactly what will happen. It just so happens that the mirror and side of the door align perfectly with the pieces of the tire that start flinging around, so the side of the door gets scratched up and the side mirror also becomes a fair target for a piece of flying rubber....

So the point is that while you understand the "risks" (and the safety risk is no greater with our without metal fender liners), without them you weekend is over and you have just cost yourself a lot more money in repairs.

With the fender liners, you just put on a new tire and go, and there is no other damage to the car.

As far as fender-to-fender contact goes... I'd feel unsafe if I had any rubbing with that setup because the fender brackets could easily bend and start cutting down a tire.

Just seems like a lot of wasted money...


I'll try to find some pics of what it looked like the last time it happened on a wide body 944 without fender liners. It's ugly.

TonyG

TonyG

Yeah... now that I look at it closer... given the direction of tire travel, if a tire came apart, it would take out the hatch as well and you would have flying rubber in the drivers compartment. Not good.

That piece of stock fender liner would slice apart the rubber coming off of the tire like a hot knife going through butter.

TonyG

95ONE

ok. .. ok.. yes.. the worst thing imaginable can happen. And if a tire goes, it is unsafe no matter what the after effects, but. once again. I'm confident I'm safe. Specially considering the 20 strong steel tubes the tire has to wiggle through to get to anyone. The design is just there ONLY FOR AIR FLOW. Otherwise, the super light thin aluminum spars can barely cut my skin.. They and the plastic are strictly to keep air flow outside the cabin. Nothing more. Once again, I am still considering bumper style bars extending inside the fender just to minimize bumping damage. i had discussed these in depth years ago.

86 951 Driver

Why not just get the mount XSChop makes that is semi solid or filling your stock mount with urethane.

JohnKoaWood

I have one on order, mine will be the first shipped out of his next batch (in work).. but the lead time was longer than I was willing ot wait, and the 1st one I purchased was available before he got back to me.. so I bought it.. should have it in hand next week (I hope)..

Origional mount has been long gone (went to landfill 2 1/2 years ago).. I replacing a LR solid mount with a semi solid, and my solid mount has already been spoken for, as soon as the replacement is in hand, the solid comes off and gets shipped to its new owner...

V2Rocket

any update on the tube?

anders44

ref discussion on solid mounts, I have bad experience with it, I "lost" one side of my traverse for transmission mount on spa-francorchamps, in a turn!! the other side was almost off the car as well when we checked it on jacks after getting towed to pit. bolts were mounted with loctite, and inspected a few days before!

so.. I need a new mount now with some rubber in it, stock mount is silly though, transmission moves like its suspended in a rubberchord. I cant have more than a few MM movements with the new engine in.


cool project btw. alu welding is weird without preheat, so hard to get it good, once up to temp.. sooo easy