Installing a SFR stg2/T04B turbo?
#16
Three Wheelin'
you do need to remove that heat shield...it's a couple bolts you get to from up top. You shouldn't have to remove the alternator shroud to get to them though. I ended up removing mine anyway to modify it so that the 3" coupler would fit better on the turbo. The wires from the alternator to the starter come out on top - I ground down the top part of the shroud and drilled another hole on the side and routed the wires there to get a little more room.
For that long turbo bolt, you may need to move the power steering rack a little. There's 4 bolts that hold it in - you don't need to take the thing out, just loosen those bolts and give it a little push - that was all the room I needed to make it 100% easier to get to that bolt.
I put new crush rings everywhere I took the exhaust apart - I'd say that you definitely need them in the two spots that connect directly to the turbo - mine were flat as a pancake when I got those pieces apart...no reason to risk those and you certainly don't want a leak there - be a total PITA to fix that for the cost of a couple gaskets.
No idea on the restrictor - I'll let others with that turbo chime in. I replaced my stock with a Vitesse Stage 2, which is a Garrett, but modified by Vitesse so that it manages oil better and doesn't need a restrictor. I haven't had any problems with mine and have about 600 miles on it since I replaced it.
For that long turbo bolt, you may need to move the power steering rack a little. There's 4 bolts that hold it in - you don't need to take the thing out, just loosen those bolts and give it a little push - that was all the room I needed to make it 100% easier to get to that bolt.
I put new crush rings everywhere I took the exhaust apart - I'd say that you definitely need them in the two spots that connect directly to the turbo - mine were flat as a pancake when I got those pieces apart...no reason to risk those and you certainly don't want a leak there - be a total PITA to fix that for the cost of a couple gaskets.
No idea on the restrictor - I'll let others with that turbo chime in. I replaced my stock with a Vitesse Stage 2, which is a Garrett, but modified by Vitesse so that it manages oil better and doesn't need a restrictor. I haven't had any problems with mine and have about 600 miles on it since I replaced it.
#17
- How do I get to the long insex turbo bolt, there seems to be a lot of stuff in the way... my car has a small heatshield that really blocks it off. Is it necessary to remove the alternator shroud?
- Are new crush rings needed everywhere? I can understand that the ones at the turbo should be changed since they're tricky to get to but is it really necessary to change the ones at the wastegate? I think I've dismounted the front exhaust from the downpipe 5 times without changing that crush ring and it still seals without any problems.
- I've seen several threads recommending an oil restrictor and also an adapter plate between the oil feed line and the turbo when using a Garrett center section. Any opinions on this?
/Dea
- Are new crush rings needed everywhere? I can understand that the ones at the turbo should be changed since they're tricky to get to but is it really necessary to change the ones at the wastegate? I think I've dismounted the front exhaust from the downpipe 5 times without changing that crush ring and it still seals without any problems.
- I've seen several threads recommending an oil restrictor and also an adapter plate between the oil feed line and the turbo when using a Garrett center section. Any opinions on this?
/Dea
You only need the oil restrictor if the chra is a ball bearing one.
#18
Burning Brakes
Only place I could think that you don't need to change the crush ring would be the WG to exhaust tie in. On the other places, you might as well just for the piece of mind... a leak from a used ring is very minimal (not noticeable in terms of spool time, in my experience), but why not do it right if you can?