Paulyy

Hey Eric, yeah im still happy with it. installation for the o2 was probably the hardest, there’s a hole near the starter motor i fed the cable through. Wiring up the 5v inputs to the sensors was quite straight forward, just had to find the wire that had the regulated 5v signal for what i wanted to log (they all go to the dme or klr)

what i didn't like is the cig lighter plug do i took it off and hard wired it into the head unit acc (which you apparently shouldn’t do but i didn't see anything wrong with it if it ran a 10 amp fuse and so did the head unit where the fuse box has a 20 amp fuse) i put my own fuse there also. and the rpm input had problems reading over 5000rpm from the tach output from the dme. so i have it going straight from the coil, tested it with a long cable from the coil to the lm2 and worked well but haven’t tested it with the cable it's connected to right now which should be the coil still since i did that while it's been of the road.

I recommend getting a GM 3 bar MAP sensor if you want to log MAP.
And also getting the windscreen holder for it, Really handy.

and once it's all connected and working all you need to do is put it in your laptop and tell the program all the inputs, rename them and put the values in for the sensors like E.g min: 0.01v = 0psi Max: 5.00v = 10psi for the MAP sensor (the values will come with the sensor).

on the hand held it, for the inputs (apart from rpm & afr) it will only tell you volts or % (0v=0% 5v=100%) but you select what you want to see on the screen either afr or rpm or both or 4 different sensors. you can have the afr log as a "worm" line graph if you like. heaps of features.

Play back is real good. for whatever you've logged you can set up gauges on you laptop and watch it and take notes and set up charts and all sorts of things. if there’s not enough aux inputs you can put the LMA3 to it which allows to use more sensors and has an inbuilt map sensor.


Hope that gives you an idea about the unit. if you've got any other questions.. do ask. if you want a log file to play with, i'll be happy to send 1 over.

Eric_Oz_S2

Thanks Paulyy - yes been thinking about installing a map sensor to log boost for the LM-2. Is there a cheap place to get these locally (Repco?).

Paulyy

I don't think Repco will have any, that's more car accessories and tools.
Id give Autobarn a call if you want 1 like the GM ones.

if not call these guys up, they'll have what you need.
(click the sensor and view the pdf for info on the sensor)

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/s...624164&Ntt=map

zerMATT951

You might be able to buy one from Joshua at Rogue, he includes them with the M-Tune kits.

Paulyy

You could. he sells the standard GM 3 BAR ones IICR. the problem is it'll cost double to ship them over here.

Paulyy

Eric, have you connected your LM-2 yet?

Eric_Oz_S2

Paully,

I was going to start this weekend but got hooked on watching Bathurst. I bought a Delphi 2 bar map sensor from the US ($68 del) and I have a rainbow assortment of wires to splice into the DME harness. I'm going to log RPM, AFM, IAT, TPS and MAP. Rather than weld in the bung, I'll just put the wide band O2 sensor in place of the narrow band and use the LM-2 to simulate narrow band through the analogue output. Have you tried this approach?

I hope to start wiring it up next weekend.

I have, however, managed to get my home made knock sensor working. I bought a black anodised aluminium panel that I'll cut to size to make the gauge plate. Then just need to add one of these as well:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motors...auge/1771/1722

and perhaps one of these:

http://www.fastwrx.com/mavdiintega.html

Paulyy

those dual gauges are pretty neat, pretty disappointing there's no AFR one.
How did you make the knock sensor? I've been looking for one.

Are you sure the wbo2 sensor will fit in the nbo2 original bung? i was thinking of doing this but since my nbo2 is on the up pipe it sees a lot of exhaust heat and pressure so wasn't going to but it there. i just put it where everyone else puts it before it goes up to get to the turbo.
I have been looking do simulate a narrow band signal to my narrow band gauge but will be a custom signal so it'll be like a wide band gauge with out number readings in a way instead of having the unit always on the windscreen on the streets.

I'm interested how you're going to log RPM as in which wire you're going splice. I originally used the tacho signal wire but it wouldn't read over 5000 rpm. so I'm going to go (-) from the coil. This worked when i used a long cable from the coil to the LM-2 but i found the wire from the fuse box but havn't tested that wire yet, only with a ohm tester which seemed about right.

Eric_Oz_S2

The knock sensor was put together using a Red Lion CUB4 counter. These effectively record switched pulses. I had to modify the input slightly using a transistor (and resistor to reduce the load) as a switching device. Effectively, when the DME knock yes/no pulse is sent to the transistor it closes the gate and sends a signal to the counter. The curtis ones are much smaller (and probably better), but hard to find now.

I think both (narrow and wide band) sensors have a m18x1.5 thread, so it should fit.

For the RPM, I will use terminal 6 of the DME (rev counter signal). I presume you tried pin 21 of the DME for the 951?

I also plan to hard wire mine in, but I'll use the feed to the cigarette lighter to tap the power as I presume this has a higher current rating. I have also read that you shouldn't use the radio feed as the voltage isn't stable with the radio on and can lead to incorrect or varying readings.

theedge

Wideband sensors use the same thread as most narrow band sensors but you cant put it pre turbo. Wide bands are more delicate than narrow bands, the head and backpressure that are preturbo will give you false readings first then kill the sensor.

Paulyy

yeah i've heard that before, reason why i didn't do it.

knock sensor is pretty neat, it would be great if i could log it with the lm-2 to find out where (rpm vs boost) would knock.

yep i used 21, it was connected to my AFMLink piggy back and that worked fine with that input but the lm-2 didn't like it past 5000rpm.

Eric_Oz_S2

Did you try installing a potentiometer between the signal feed and LM2? It may be a case of the LM2 being unable to differentiate the signal waveform at higher revs. Adding a pot should filter out the noise (covered in the manual)

I don't think the LM2 can't log knock as it is a pulse signal. The only pulse input available is for rpm.I think the lm-3 can log knock (though I suspect not very well due to the sampling rate required). The lm-3 can also log duty cycle whcih woulod certainly be nice.

Paulyy

I havn't tried, i just found it in the manual. i might try it when the car is started and report back

the LMA3 is a pretty neat add-on for the lm-2 probably be good in your case if you're self tuning the dme

Dubai944

Just a caution based on my own experience with innovate products... I set up 4 LC-1 widebands (one per cylinder) for individual cylinder trim in the motec but the analog outs all failed. This is aparently a common problem due to the sensitivity of the chips if the analogues are earthed even momentarily. In my case I was aware of this before install and followed the install instructions to the letter with the greatest of care but they worked for a while then failed. Additionally I had problems with the serial port connections for daisy chaining the sensors causing the sensors to fail to initiate which despite several calls to Innovate was never resolved.

My ultimate conclusion was that although potentially capable products they are far too touchy for serious motorsport applications which need to be robust and reliable.

Paulyy

ehhh really? hope that didn't cause damage