Studs, bolts, and nuts ?
#1
Racer
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So head is off to machinist (Thanks Lart) and turbo is on its way back to me (Thanks evergreen) and I'll be bolting everything back together, and I'd very much like to change some of my fastening options as some of the stock fastners were clearly made from paste and shoe polish.
Here's what I've decide on, and I'd love your suggestions about what I missed and where to source.
For Header studs: those fancy stainless bolts from summit racing
For manifold bolts: studs and nuts so I can ditch the allen head
For coolant inlet and outlet: studs and nuts (by the way, these bolts were my most troublesome--three out of four broke, which leads me to question why)
What should I use for the cross over to turbo and turbo to downpipe?
Any other suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Dan
Here's what I've decide on, and I'd love your suggestions about what I missed and where to source.
For Header studs: those fancy stainless bolts from summit racing
For manifold bolts: studs and nuts so I can ditch the allen head
For coolant inlet and outlet: studs and nuts (by the way, these bolts were my most troublesome--three out of four broke, which leads me to question why)
What should I use for the cross over to turbo and turbo to downpipe?
Any other suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Dan
#3
Drifting
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Copper work well. Before going w/ studs/nuts on the intake manifold, make sure you can get a socket on the nuts since they're so close to the intake runners.
Who did you choose for machining the head? Let me know how that turns out.
Who did you choose for machining the head? Let me know how that turns out.
#4
Nordschleife Master
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For the turbo downpipe, i used standard studs with copper clad nuts.
Same deal with the crossover flange, standard bolts with copper nuts.
For the studs on the downpipe, technically there are 7. 4 on the backside of the turbo and 3 between the downpipe and midpipe. I used hardware sourced from ATPTurbo, you need 10mmx1.5.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=FST
Same deal with the crossover flange, standard bolts with copper nuts.
For the studs on the downpipe, technically there are 7. 4 on the backside of the turbo and 3 between the downpipe and midpipe. I used hardware sourced from ATPTurbo, you need 10mmx1.5.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=FST
#5
Racer
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Thanks Duck
Jerome I went with Simon at Tyson's so far he has been good to work with and his rates seem reasonable. I'll keep you (and fellow Dorkis) updated.
Jerome I went with Simon at Tyson's so far he has been good to work with and his rates seem reasonable. I'll keep you (and fellow Dorkis) updated.
#6
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There is no clearance problem for the nuts if you put studs in for the manifold – one stud does block access to the head stud/nut – so don’t install all the manifold studs until the head is torqued.
BTW – put the studs in with lock tite or they will come out when you remove the nuts later.
BTW – put the studs in with lock tite or they will come out when you remove the nuts later.
#7
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Thanks.
Anyone else have trouble with those coolant neck bolts (2 13mm nuts behind AOS filler neck and two of those blessed allens at the front of the head)?
Anyone else have trouble with those coolant neck bolts (2 13mm nuts behind AOS filler neck and two of those blessed allens at the front of the head)?