Does this look like a 1000 mile block?
#1
Does this look like a 1000 mile block?
Sorry for the xpost - put this up on the NA board but I don't think there are as many hardcore wrenchers over there....
Picked up this 1983 944 short block as pictured and the claim is that it only has 1000 miles on it. It looks pretty clean and there is nothing you can catch your nail on in the bores. Still seems like they should look a little better though. Engine has been in dry storage for 10 years and appears to have been sitting on its flywheel side.
I am thinking about converting it to a turbo engine. Sucks that there are no bosses for the timing belt tensioner or turbo oil feed line.
Cylinder 1 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 2 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 3 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 4 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 1 other side
Cylinder 2 other side
Cylinder 3 other side
Cylinder 4 other side
Picked up this 1983 944 short block as pictured and the claim is that it only has 1000 miles on it. It looks pretty clean and there is nothing you can catch your nail on in the bores. Still seems like they should look a little better though. Engine has been in dry storage for 10 years and appears to have been sitting on its flywheel side.
I am thinking about converting it to a turbo engine. Sucks that there are no bosses for the timing belt tensioner or turbo oil feed line.
Cylinder 1 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 2 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 3 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 4 facing towards exhaust side
Cylinder 1 other side
Cylinder 2 other side
Cylinder 3 other side
Cylinder 4 other side
#2
I would pass on this block for a turbo build. The early NA motors have smaller oil journals feeding the mains. Not the best solution for a turbo motor. One thing you'll notice is the factory x-drilling for the rods. Porsche stopped x-drilling and opened up and enlarged the mains somewhere in the late 84 blocks from what I can tell and I'm presuming so they could use the block and cranks for turbo use but it could have been for bearing burn up issues.
#6
It has bore damage that I would not expect on a low mileage engine. Of course, any engine can be damaged by abuse or neglect in a very short time. It is clean on the other surfaces though. For a turbo engine, I would look for an '87 or later. You can use a NA or turbo block if you are willing to spring for new pistons and machine work. I am sure you have some spare turbo rods and a filter console around!
#7
FWIW, the bores look remarkably simmilar (although you have much more scuffing) to my unknown mileage block (chasis has 205K on it, I put 20K on this motor since I bought her, I suspect the motor was swapped at some point, but who really knows anymore... it is apart and being reassembled / fully rebuilt...)
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#8
Interesting development. Just got off the phone with the guy that owns this block - I have it as I am checking it out to possibly purchase it. Anyways this motor came from Chris White about 10 years ago or more. It was one of two motors that were used for training so it was assembled and disassembled multiple times. It is certainly clean and the plating on the hardware is like new.
#9
FWIW, the bores look remarkably simmilar (although you have much more scuffing) to my unknown mileage block (chasis has 205K on it, I put 20K on this motor since I bought her, I suspect the motor was swapped at some point, but who really knows anymore... it is apart and being reassembled / fully rebuilt...)
#11
There's no reason why this can't be a 1K mile block. The deck is very clean, the block is very clean, I don't see any evidence of it being washed (surface rust) unless it was disassembled, there doesn't appear to be a ridge at the top of the cylinders, etc. Without measuring things it's hard to say either way.
I can believe is it was a motor that was started very infrequently (dry cylinders and rings, frozen rings etc.) and probably wasn't run very long. If it sat very long betweeen starts I can also see a rich condition that would make start up even worse. If it's from the NE then I can see the moisture buildup making infrequent starts harsh. How do the main bearings look? If you can't catch your nail on the ridge marks it's likely to polish itself out after a few thousand well lubricated miles.
I can believe is it was a motor that was started very infrequently (dry cylinders and rings, frozen rings etc.) and probably wasn't run very long. If it sat very long betweeen starts I can also see a rich condition that would make start up even worse. If it's from the NE then I can see the moisture buildup making infrequent starts harsh. How do the main bearings look? If you can't catch your nail on the ridge marks it's likely to polish itself out after a few thousand well lubricated miles.
#12
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From: Marietta, NY
Wow, there is a blast from the past!
I had that engine 10 years ago – its one of three that I bought from PCNA when they moved their headquarters. Its never been in a car or actually started up. The engines were in their headquarters for demonstration / training use. They were spun around by hand a lot and show some surface wear in the bores but no taper and most of the wear is just ‘marks’ and not gouges or scratches.
It should work fine with a new set of rings and pistons. I put that together 10 years ago so it should be taken apart and cleaned up. I would suggest new head studs – I can’t remember if I did those t 10 years ago – it they are the original ones they have been cycled 100’s of time!
BTW – note the odd looking power steering mount!
If this is going to be used for track use then you should use a good oil cooler (you should anyway – but the early galley design would make the oil cooler even more important).
I had that engine 10 years ago – its one of three that I bought from PCNA when they moved their headquarters. Its never been in a car or actually started up. The engines were in their headquarters for demonstration / training use. They were spun around by hand a lot and show some surface wear in the bores but no taper and most of the wear is just ‘marks’ and not gouges or scratches.
It should work fine with a new set of rings and pistons. I put that together 10 years ago so it should be taken apart and cleaned up. I would suggest new head studs – I can’t remember if I did those t 10 years ago – it they are the original ones they have been cycled 100’s of time!
BTW – note the odd looking power steering mount!
If this is going to be used for track use then you should use a good oil cooler (you should anyway – but the early galley design would make the oil cooler even more important).
#13
I decided to pass on this motor as I ended up with a bigger fish to fry (more on that later.) Anyways - if anyone is interested in it please let me know and I'll get the seller's info to you or help with the sale. I think he was hoping for $500 but might take offers.