Factory v. Raceware Studs
08-23-2010, 12:56 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Happen to have any pictures showing where you put the port? Or did you just follow the pics LR posts on its site?
08-23-2010, 12:57 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
09-02-2010, 12:08 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tom, If I recall correctly I put some plumbers pipe thread sealant on the fitting going into the head. I don't recall there being any coating on the Lindsey supplied fitting at the time.
I did use Lindsey's hose as I tried to order some locally but the local supplier's hose was a lower temperature rating. I never had a leak, or none that I could see.
I did use Lindsey's hose as I tried to order some locally but the local supplier's hose was a lower temperature rating. I never had a leak, or none that I could see.
09-02-2010, 12:22 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The fitting LR supplied had sealant on the treads as shipped, and the online instructions said to use it without more -- so that's what I did. Here's hoping for no leaks!
09-03-2010, 12:55 PM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: A suburb of Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
3 Posts
Hey Tom,
When I blew my factory headgasket at 70,000 miles, the metal ring in the gasket at #4 cylinder was egg shaped. Some knowlegable people told me that was a sign that the head was lifting or warped, and the compression blew out the sealing ring in the gasket. Since the repair I have been running 21psi of boost for over 5 years now. Wide fire head gasket. O-Ring in head. Stock head studs (reused when I had Lindsey Racing do the valve job, surface the head flat and install o-rings).
Now that I am thinking about it, the 5 years is a bit misleading, since I do not drive my car much. It only has 90k on it now.
When I blew my factory headgasket at 70,000 miles, the metal ring in the gasket at #4 cylinder was egg shaped. Some knowlegable people told me that was a sign that the head was lifting or warped, and the compression blew out the sealing ring in the gasket. Since the repair I have been running 21psi of boost for over 5 years now. Wide fire head gasket. O-Ring in head. Stock head studs (reused when I had Lindsey Racing do the valve job, surface the head flat and install o-rings).
Now that I am thinking about it, the 5 years is a bit misleading, since I do not drive my car much. It only has 90k on it now.
09-12-2010, 10:30 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, just an update. The lindsey kit is in, and it is holding tight with no leaking! It sure does make it easy to vent the system -- just rev it a smidge and all the air comes right out the vent line. I'm going to pull it all apart to re-torque the hg studs--per Raceware's instructions--but was happy to see it function as designed without leaking. The thread sealer LR used did the trick right out of the box!
09-12-2010, 10:57 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great to hear it all worked. I also found it much easier to get the system bled with the vent kit. Tom, I used Raceware Studs on my 2.7 head vs ARP and I also re torqued the nuts as per Raceware recommendations. I marked all the nuts prior to retorque and was surprised to find one or two, don't remember which, that did move just a tiny bit. Not much though.
10-10-2010, 03:58 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well....drum roll please...... it didn't. 
After trying every trick in the book, it's still leaking. It's hard to check with the o-rings installed in the block, but at this point it seems the deck has low spots and it's just not going to seal well enough. It'll drive around town fine, and hold stock boost levels, but when I turn the boost up even a little, it starts pushing coolant out the overflow. Because the block is o-ringed, it's not as simple as just getting it decked. So, it's back to the drawing board right now. I do have a plan though, and it should be a good one -- benefitting from all lessons learned. New 2.7 core is already here, courtesy of Travis at Rennbay...stay tuned....
After trying every trick in the book, it's still leaking. It's hard to check with the o-rings installed in the block, but at this point it seems the deck has low spots and it's just not going to seal well enough. It'll drive around town fine, and hold stock boost levels, but when I turn the boost up even a little, it starts pushing coolant out the overflow. Because the block is o-ringed, it's not as simple as just getting it decked. So, it's back to the drawing board right now. I do have a plan though, and it should be a good one -- benefitting from all lessons learned. New 2.7 core is already here, courtesy of Travis at Rennbay...stay tuned....
10-10-2010, 04:34 PM
#29
Nordschleife Master
Sorry to hear. Pressurized coolant is getting old with these engines. I wish there was a certain way of dealing with these issues, but the cures just vary from time to time. I guess it mostly depends on what kind of woodoo spells used!
Let's hear more about the new project!
Let's hear more about the new project!
10-10-2010, 05:13 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
As they say down here, Bugger!
So given a blank canvas Tom do you think there is anything more that you can do? Clearly you have a plan so best of luck with that. Are you going to keep pootling around on 14psi until the new motor is built? Not the worst case scenario of course.
So given a blank canvas Tom do you think there is anything more that you can do? Clearly you have a plan so best of luck with that. Are you going to keep pootling around on 14psi until the new motor is built? Not the worst case scenario of course.