Got the car final tuned today, running up into the limits of the cam right now. Made 421rwhp and 410ft lbs of torque. That's 50 ft lbs more torque than before and you can really feel it. Huge gains under the curve, hitting the track tomorrow, can't wait to feel it.

Unfortunately my hood scoop/louvers showed up today, vs Wednesday like I needed them to, so I won't have time to install them.

I'm also having an issue with the Boxster ABS, light stays on no matter what, doesn't seem like the pump is cycling. I'm beginning to wonder if I bought the wrong pump, anyone have the part # of the Boxster pump that they have up and running in their car?

 

congratulations Doc.

 

Hit the track yesterday and had a good day shaking down the car. Motor ran great, no issues there! Could really feel the additional torque, even driving 6/10's I was easily bumping the rev limiter in 4th gear at 140+ mph on the back straight of HPR. Car pulls really well now! Suspension felt good, brakes were fine, but I need to figure out the ABS and get it working.

Water/oil temps are still a bit of a concern. The oil cooler needs to get moved down, right now it's mounted behind where the license plate mounts, but no holes were made behind it, so air can't flow through it. Rather than cutting up the radiator ducting behind the oil cooler I'd rather move it down, so it gets clean air completely through it.

Burped some air through the system on the track and the car runs very cool on the street and no longer gets too hot in street driving, even in traffic/idling. However on the track I'm still seeing 230F, I got the hood scoop and louvers, but they arrived late Friday, too late for me to install them.

Had a little smoke coming out the exhaust, but found that the shop had over filled the motor with oil. It did dissipate as the motor shot the excess out the exhaust. I'll check the level today and suck some out the dipstick tube with my Griot's oil evacuater if need be. Full on my car is half way up the hash marks, shop filled it to the top of the hash mark.

Plan is to install the scoop/louvers this off season, move the oil cooler down and get the ABS working. Everything else seems to be working well now.

 

Think I've figured out why the ABS isn't working. I didn't wire the alternator into the Porsche alternator lead, so the factory ABS relay has no idea if the motor is on and to give power to the ABS ECU. At least I hope that's all I need to do.

Debating whether to install a much larger oil cooler core when I move it down into the air stream. Will have to assess the costs involved there, but if I can do it for minimal cash outlay I think I will.

Pulled my PC680 battery, not sure if it simply didn't have the juice to fire the 383 beast or if it's just tired, but the motor was cranking over slowly. Popped my old full size battery back in and it spins the motor at normal (quick) cranking speeds. Might need to step up to the larger PC925 next season if I want a lighter battery.

Also installed the Rennline glove box hinges, one of my stock ones was broken and the other was cracked. Removed the instrument cluster as well. There's a Speedo shop down the street from my office, I'll take the cluster and my odo gear to them and have them repair it.

Still puzzling over the rear hatch release with the key. Works fine with the interior release switch, motor actuates and the hatch opens. Turn the key in the lock and you can hear a "click", but nothing happens. No love from the motor with the key. WTF?

Drove it today to check out a 4 post lift, it's fast. As in D A M N (!!) that's Fast!

 

I am running the PC925 on mine and it cranks over with no issue, even during the winter with 10w40 oil.

 

Looks like a bad microswitch for the hatch release. Need to find a part # and DIY so I can fix it.

 

Same here. We run them on the spec boxsters as well with good luck.

 

I bought some of the microswitches for the hatch (and a few other things) off ebay for a few bucks. Had an extended lever which was easily trimmed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pc-TEMCo-M...-/191202625167

 

Ok, that's the same price as an OEM one from Sunset. Is it an easy, plug n play swap, or will I need to solder the new microswitch into place?

 

Oh that price is crazy I think I paid $20 or so for a bag of them from the same seller. I wanted extras for the other cars and convertible top limit switches, etc. I soldered it to the OEM harness.

 

I'm confused about a couple of things.

The dyno looks good, but it's rolling over way too soon. Even for a street cam, the peak will be at least 6000rpms. So something looks off there. With the TQ peaking past 4500, the HP should be peaking far later than it is. What are the specs on the cam? What intake, TB are you running? What heads and what have you done to them?

The oil situation. Why is full on your dip stick over full on your car? What breather setup do you have? LS1, LS6, LS3 style?

I run the tiny Shorai Lipo battery on my car and it has zero problems starting my V8. Been bullet proof. 4.9lbs. And we run these a ton of 911 race cars. zero problems.

TonyG

 

It's a fairly small cam, 230/234 601 lift. FAST92/92, RHS heads. I could easily make 30rwhp more with a bigger cam, but then I'd have to move up a time trial class and potentially lose some of the torque I'm making.

Also remember I'm at altitude and while the dyno "corrects" for that, it's not a perfect correction, I'd probably make 15-20rwhp more at sea level with no changes.

I'm happy with the power it's making and right now don't feel the need to spend more money on a different cam/tune/install.

The dipstick on my car sits too low in the pan, that's why it reads high. Breather setup is a LS6 valley cover with dual valve cover vents each going into their own catch can. Breather setup is finally working properly.

The PC680 I picked up used from a friend, I think it's just had it.

 

It's not about the power level. It's about why the HP is rolling over so soon... which isn't an altitude related issue.

Which cam are you running?

You have RHS heads? http://www.racingheadservice.com ? Which heads? I was going to get a set of their heads but I couldn't wait the 8-10 weeks they need to produce them.

Do you have the wrong dip stick? How is it "sitting low" in the pan?

TonyG

 

Yep, those heads. Believe they're the 232 as casts, but I'm not entirely sure.

It's the same cam I've had all along, an EPS 230/234 .601/.601. It's not enough cam for my current motor, it's topped out. On my junkyard LS1 it pulled all the way to redline with the same intake setup.

Like I said, I'm happy with the amount of power I'm making now. If I make more I break out of my time trial class and I also don't feel like spending the cash for a new cam and tune. I want to get the Boxster ABS working and tie up some other loose ends.

I'm running the stock dipstick, with the Texas Performance Pan it sits low, hence reading high.

 

Why didnt you upgrade the cam while you were in there? You can always detune the motor for your class. Now if you do decide to move up you're going to spend a ton of money for a better cam and install.
I just followed in your footsteps and went with the RHS heads, Morel lifters and the F16 cam... It goes in the shop any day now... Dont know why i am doing this. It already is so frickin fast... LOL