The LS1 swap has begun
08-05-2011, 09:54 AM
#796
Burning Brakes
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Contact:
david3@specclutch.com
http://www.specclutch.com/
Select the "Conversion Application" in the drop down box.
I went with the upgraded aluminum PP and I'd highly recommend it.
david3@specclutch.com
http://www.specclutch.com/
Select the "Conversion Application" in the drop down box.
I went with the upgraded aluminum PP and I'd highly recommend it.
08-05-2011, 10:06 AM
#797
Burning Brakes
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it's pretty much safe to say that Renegage made the design change to ensure that plenty of driveshaft would be supported by the pilot bearing no matter the driveshaft alignment in the torque tube. That's what I would guess. And it seems like cheap "insurance" with no down side.
Make certain you take the time to mock up your parts, bolt the TT to the BH, and visually inspect engagement. The Spec hub with the rear offset will help.
08-05-2011, 10:28 AM
#798
Three Wheelin'
I think about a year back Constantine was testing out a new driveshaft made from a better material. He made this specifically because of the splines wearing off on the end of the driveshaft. Something to look into if anything ever moved out of the beta phase.
08-05-2011, 10:34 AM
#799
Nordschleife Master
Contact:
david3@specclutch.com
http://www.specclutch.com/
Select the "Conversion Application" in the drop down box.
I went with the upgraded aluminum PP and I'd highly recommend it.
david3@specclutch.com
http://www.specclutch.com/
Select the "Conversion Application" in the drop down box.
I went with the upgraded aluminum PP and I'd highly recommend it.
08-05-2011, 11:28 AM
#800
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How are you guys shoving the driveshaft forward in the torque tube and still connecting it to your input shaft on the transmission via the coupler? Obviously the coupler allows for a little bit of movement forward and rearward, but due to where the bolts slide through the grooves, there isn't much room for movement.
08-05-2011, 12:15 PM
#802
Burning Brakes
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I believe with the correct engagement and clutch hub, we should be good to go. Mine had 52,000 miles of LS2 power on it when it finally locked up the clutch disk on the shaft.
08-05-2011, 01:21 PM
#804
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Just to clarify for people who are going to do this swap: this upgraded pilot does not enure you will have full DS spline to clutch hub engagement. If your DS isn't set properly within the TT, the clutch hub will be hanging off the end of the DS while the clutch is engaged, and you will eventually end up stripping the splines.
Make certain you take the time to mock up your parts, bolt the TT to the BH, and visually inspect engagement. The Spec hub with the rear offset will help.
Make certain you take the time to mock up your parts, bolt the TT to the BH, and visually inspect engagement. The Spec hub with the rear offset will help.
TonyG
08-05-2011, 04:37 PM
#805
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sorry for freaking you out Gene!
Tony, I've had no issue buying a piece here and a piece there from Renegade. They've been happy to send me misc bits seperately. I didn't buy their kit...
Tony, I've had no issue buying a piece here and a piece there from Renegade. They've been happy to send me misc bits seperately. I didn't buy their kit...
08-05-2011, 07:17 PM
#806
Race Car
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Oh man Tony. You are taking me way back to the old MTI dyno days. They were located here in Houston. First on Richmond Ave, then on Dairy Ashford. Blast from the the past.. They did great work, and put together nice packages for the LS series vehicles. LT1's and 4's way before that of course.
08-05-2011, 07:30 PM
#807
Race Car
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Josh got me all freaked out about the Comp 918's - appears it was one bad batch # that had about 20 failures. Comp Cams completely redesigned them in 2007 and the updated ones are good for .625 lift instead of .600 lift. That being said most people on LS1tech seemed to agree that the useful life of the springs on a cammed motor was about 20k miles.
Gene..EDIT: i was being a Dooshbag.. Short answer.. the cheapest ARP rod bolts (kit 6006) are way stronger than the stock rod and piston, so there's no reason to get any stronger rod bolts. I also proved the cheaper ARP rods do not change the big end of the bore of the Rod end, so there is no reason to machine them out.
So... With my testing with my parts, there was no reason to get more expensive/better rod bolts and the rod doesn't need machining when the ARP 6006 bolts are installed.
Last edited by 95ONE; 08-08-2011 at 10:18 PM.
08-05-2011, 11:05 PM
#808
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so i got 3 laps in before my autometer gauge said no oil pressure. The motor runs fine and theres no knock, my guess is that the sending unit crapped out. I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge tomorrow and see whats up.
