Acceleration not smooth(BIG UPDATE Check out last post)
#16
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either it has a weak spark or its running rich, i dont think it will be a fuel problem, if it was the plugs would be a crusty white colour.
when this happend to me i first got new sparkplugs and sparkplug leads. it help a little bit, then checked the cap and rotor. the rotor was demolished so replaced them both, problem solved.
Here's a little check list for your ignition:
- spark plugs ✔
- cap + rotor ✔
- Spark plug leads ❒
- coil ❒
#17
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Spark plug leads are the wires then? I don't have new wires. I thought wires only needed to be replaced when you could see tears in them or if you could see sparks arcing? Coil I'm assuming works otherwise wouldn't run at all.
When I looked up symptoms it looks like it could be ignition or the FPR I'm guessing. I am going to check the fuel pressure hopefully to rule out the fuel system up to the injectors.
When I looked up symptoms it looks like it could be ignition or the FPR I'm guessing. I am going to check the fuel pressure hopefully to rule out the fuel system up to the injectors.
#19
The conductor inside the spark plug wires /leads/ breaks down over time. Good idea to spend a little money to replace them after a while, esp. if the car has sat for a while. I have had incidents on other cars where the wire looks fine and tested fine, but at higher rpm's there was a skip. Changed wires and all was good.
Just a suggestion.
Just a suggestion.
#20
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It was not running great before the cap and rotor replacement. The rotor and cap might have been factory since they were all chewed up. Heres the deal I have 10 foot of bulk spark plug wire. I could replace the wires with my old ends, but I don't have the little screw things to put on the ends to allow me to screw them into the beru connectors.
#22
This sounds very similar to the problem I'm just now starting to get out from under. Mine still isn't totally solved, but cleaning the ground points has been helping. This would seem to indicate that the issue is with voltage drop and one or more sensors in my case, rather than ignition or fueling. Have you cleaned all your grounds?
#24
The biggest single change I've observed so far is from cleaning one of the two bell housing grounds. (I've only done one so far, and I still can't reach the other one even though it's only an inch away because there's too much in the way).
Here's a link to Tom M’Guinness' write up on the project: http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951...housing_gr.htm
Here's a link to Tom M’Guinness' write up on the project: http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951...housing_gr.htm
#25
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It will tell you how to install the fuel filter, amongst other things. It's easy to do.
A weak fuel pump will struggle to deliver fuel under boost.
#26
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Changing the sparkplug leads/wires will be a good sugestion. when i changed mine, they looked good, but it made a difference.
i really doubt it's a fuel problem when its running richer while trying to boost.
i really doubt it's a fuel problem when its running richer while trying to boost.
#27
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Okay so I found out that my jboot somehow fell off my AFM. Put that back on and went for a quick drive. Car runs a little bit better still doing all the other symptoms. It seems like it might be getting too much fuel and thats why I can't go WOT. I did notice that If I don't go WOT in 1st and 2nd gear that I can get into the upper rev range like 5,000 rpm or 5,500 rpm. If I go WOT it wants to die off. Weird? Still have not changed the plug wires, because I can't get them local and they are extremely expensive.
I cleaned some grounds the ones in the back hatch, front headlight grounds as well as the main battery ground in the battery tray area, no improvement.
I know where the fuel filter is at and what not but the oil cooler for the trans is in the way. Is there a way that I could get to it easier or how does everyone else change it out with an oil cooler in the way?
I cleaned some grounds the ones in the back hatch, front headlight grounds as well as the main battery ground in the battery tray area, no improvement.
I know where the fuel filter is at and what not but the oil cooler for the trans is in the way. Is there a way that I could get to it easier or how does everyone else change it out with an oil cooler in the way?
Last edited by 86 951 Driver; 08-02-2010 at 09:45 PM.
#28
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The oil coller isn't in the way. Drop the shield for the fuel pump and the filter is right there. Check out Clarks, as mentioned.
How do you know that the car is running rich up top? Do you have a WB02 hooked up?
How do you know that the car is running rich up top? Do you have a WB02 hooked up?
#29
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I'm just assuming its running rich up top cause I can smell almost raw gas while driving it. I am getting really bad gas mileage as well.
Just for kicks I unplugged the TPS and tried to drive the car and it ran bad really bad. I don't know if I should start throwing parts at it or what? I'm not 100% sure how to check the vacuum lines, but I don't hear any hissing sounds.
Just for kicks I unplugged the TPS and tried to drive the car and it ran bad really bad. I don't know if I should start throwing parts at it or what? I'm not 100% sure how to check the vacuum lines, but I don't hear any hissing sounds.