ehall

That probably went to some kind of sub box/speaker.

Unplugging the TPS should make the car idles at about 1600 rpm and it should otherwise drive fine.

You can't assume that you are running rich. You could be rich off boost and very lean at high RPM's.

ehall

Now, you can throw money at this car, with little result but to lighten your wallet, or you can go read up at www.clarks-garage.com.

86 951 Driver

My car didn't really idle high with the TPS unplugged.

I noticed today that if I can the car into boost when I put the clutch in the car wants to die like it doesn't have gas, but I wasn't able to start the car right up.
This is after the car is all warmed up BTW.

I have read up on stuff, but I'm not really sure how to do stuff with diagnosing turbo related problems. I may buy an FPR. I have noticed the fuel pump is making some noise, not really loud but noticeable. What kind of fuel pressure gauge do I need to check my fuel pressure?

pontifex4

Those grounds you mentioned didn't make a difference for me, either. Before you buy anything, take a 10mm deep socket, a flex joint and an extension and LOOSEN (do not remove) the bolt on the left, as shown in the photo below:



You will only need to loosen it enough so that you can just turn the brown wire around in a couple of half-circles. Spray some contact cleaner on it if you have it, then tighten it back up and see if it makes any difference. If so, stuff a rag tightly in that inspection hole shown in Tom's directions, remove the bolt, clean the ground as thoroughly as you can, put it back in then do the one to the right of it. If not, then look elsewhere.

I'm working on what seems to be exactly the problem you're having, and cleaning that particular ground point made a pretty big difference for me. I also didn't have to remove any parts to clean that point, but it was a bit of a tight squeeze.

86 951 Driver

Did you have to take the manifold and all that off to clean those grounds?

Paulyy

leads should't be that expencive, call up your local auto shop and ask for either magnecor, TopGun (what i used) and i dont know what other US brands there are, but dont use bosch ones unles you want to pay $750, which it should only cost around $150

pontifex4

So far, I haven't removed anything, and I think I should be able to reach the larger bolt indicated by the arrow without removing anything, too.

I used a really big screwdriver to gently bend my heater hose and one big vac line out of the way in order to reach the bolt on the left.

Just to reiterate what Tom's instructions say: it's a bit of a reach into that area, and it's easy to drop the bolt of a washer into the clutch inspection port. That would be a disaster. I don't even want to think of what you would have to do if you dropped anything in there!

86 951 Driver

Just ordered a new set of spark plug wires.

pontifex4

Be sure to update the thread if it works!

Paulyy

hope this solves the problem!

86 951 Driver

You have no idea. If it doesn't then I will be trying out a FPR.

86 951 Driver

How bad is it to drive the car with it running how it is?

Paulyy

do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail?

86 951 Driver

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge on the end of the fuel rail. Tonight I will be checking the fuel pressure with a gauge. I believe its a snap on. Hopefully this will give me a clue.

Wanted to give another update. What I have found is that when I am first driving the car meaning just started it up, and I go to open it up the car runs good not great, but better than normal. Then once its warmed up or it has been driven a bit the car will not be running good, and the fuel pump will be making noise. My question is could the fuel pump be going bad and work great for a second then the next be falling on its face?

Also would the FPR play a role at all then. What I am going to try to do is put that fuel pressure gauge on and see what it does on a cold idle. Then drive it around the block or a little bit then come back and see what its registering at. Would that be good to check the fuel pump or FPR?

I would like to thank everyone for all the help it really means a lot.

Paulyy

well the stock FPR should read 2.5 bar (36.3 psi) on idle. if you want to test the FPR, my method i used worked.

what you need is:
- a pressure unit aka a small compressor or a ball pump
- air pressure gauge... boost gauge will do, something that reads no more then 30 psi so its accurate
- a T piece
- some sort of vaccum hose

1. connect the pump to the T piece with some hose
2. connect the gauge to the T piece
3. connect a piece of hose to the T piece
4. connect the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail.
5. turn the car on, see what the fuel pressure gauge is reading, hopfully it's 2.5bar (36.3 psi)
6. dissconect the vaccum line from the FPR and block the end of the hose with a screw or something to prevent a vaccum leak.
7. connect the loose hose from the T piece to the FPR
8. apply pressure with the pump. The FPR will raise 1:1 so if its on 36.3 psi and you apply 5 psi, the fuel pressure gauge should read 41.3 psi, 10 psi - 46.3 psi, 15 psi - 51.3 psi and so on.

If that's how it reads, then the FPR is good

- Paulyy