Mark944na86

Anyone change brake pads often enough to use one of the pupose-built tools to make things faster? I'm looking for ways to speed up changing pads on my S2, if I'm going to be doing this before and after track days. Any pointers appreciated.

JDS968

Never changed pads on an S2 so you'll have to tell me whether yours works the same...but can't you just pull the pads out the open back of the caliper and then leverage the pistons back in using a flatblade screwdriver or something? I have a pad spreader, but it's for other vehicles whose pistons don't want to go back in on their own, ESPECIALLY Audi rear calipers with the integral parking brake function, which need to be rotated at the same time. This is of course requires removing the caliper, so it would be far slower on the Porsche.

Mark944na86

The Brembo calipers are probably very similar to yours, the pistons do not require rotating to go in. I've been using the channel lock pliers+screwdrivers/prybars etc. method, and it works, it's just a bit slow and tedious. Just wondering if people have found any nifty tools that make things a bit faster, if I'm going to be doing this before and after every track session.

Chris White

I have the perfect tool for the job – a large channel lock pliers.
First I use the pliers to compress the retained and the I can pull the pads out by grabbing the pad backing plate with the pliers (traditional use)and then flip the pliers around and use the rubber coated as a lever to push the pistons back in.

This can be done without ever touching the caliper / rotor – I have used the system at the track on very hot brakes many times.
One tip – remove and replace one pad at a time – if you pull out both pads and then try to push the pistons in you will end up with the pistons on the other side pushing out.

Added bonus – if you do this at the track next to a Corvette you can actually hear the owner start to drool – I can jack my car up, remove the wheels and swap pads in under 10 minutes. It would take him over an hour…!

BTW – turbo, S2 and 968 calipers are essentially the same.

Mark944na86

That's clever. Maybe I just need a bit of practice to speed things up.

Well done! You've made me almost look forward to the next change so I can try your method out.

Duke

Try to find something similar to this tool. It's available for $15 in Sweden.

Quinlan

There is one at Harbor Freight - DON'T buy it - it is useless on Brembo brakes

gt37vgt

i found them on ebay motors but they are 45+ bucks i think i would prefer to upgrade my channel locks or chicken legs as we call em .. i find they are a tool ya can't skimp on i have thrown the cheap ones in disgust a few times

Duke

Sure it's not the best tool, but I've used it for years on all types of brembo calipers.

PorscheDoc

That one is for a different design brake caliper. You need the one duke has. ZDMak has them for about 40 bucks IIRC

Chris White

I forgot an important step in the channel lock pad swap procedure –
After you get the retainer of grab the top edge of the backing plate with the pliers and push the top of the pad towards the pistons – this will give you enough room to pull the pad out, some pas have the little posts on the backing plate to keep them aligned with the pistons, if you just pull straight tout they won’t move!

Here a pic of the best ones – the bend in the handle is really handy for prying the pistons back…

jerome951

I've been using this for years and it works quite well:
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=118

Yes, it's designed for sliding calipers, but I catch the top edges of the backing plates with the forward silver plate and black arm, pump the handle (it's like a caulking gun) a couple times, and both pads are pushed back simultaneously. No prying against the rotor or even touching the caliper itself.

You can find it for ~$35 on-line.

PorscheDoc

FWIW i also use the channel lock method.

JDS968

Definitely, once you get used to it, it's very fast and there's really no practical method that could speed it up much further.

Luis de Prat

I don't see how you can use channel locks to press the pad back against the pistons without touching the caliper? Please share any tips for doing this!


I always put a piece of cardboard under the outer channel lock jaw where it presses against the caliper, but invariably, the pressure cuts through the material and scratches the caliper finish. That's why I've searched for a tool like Duke posted for years but haven't found one yet.


Like you, I also use the rubber coated handles to push the pistons back in without gouging the seals.