ninefiveone

It looks very likely that I've spun the #2 rod bearing on day 2 at the track at Monticello. Great track, btw.

All the usual symptoms and while nothing is confirmed until I crack it open, it's best to assume the worst for now.

So what to do? In the experienced words of my friend there are three options: sell it, LS V8 it, or torch it

I'll be a little less extreme but I think the first two options may be the right way to go. Before I decide I wanted to get opinions and input here.

About the car, here's the long laundry list of stats:
- 1986 944 Turbo Black/Tan with 95K miles
- pics can be found at http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?...ct_cars&pg=951
- Perfect interior (no dash cracks)
- Excellent exterior (header panel needs work after a dent caused by an SUV spare tire parallel parking poorly in manhattan)
- Vitesse Stg 3 Turbo, sledgehamer head, cam, injectors, maf, chip, adjustable cam gear, etc
- SFR Stage 2 headers
- Hybrid Lindsey/SFR 3" exhaust with v-band clamp to the turbo
- Tial 38mm wastegate with profec spec b boost controller
- zeitronix wideband
- Swapped in a LSD transmission with cooler. Has gear whine though and will need a rebuild someday
- Iceshark headlight harness and Cibie euro headlamps, euro fogs
- Heated Sport Seats
- KLA cubby subwoofer and strut brace
- 968CS steering wheel
- keyless entry, one touch windows
- converted and working AC
- John Hajny Redline Rollbar, Sparco 6 point harnesses
- CCW 9X17 wheels w brand new Dunlop star specs (255/40/17 all 4 corners)
- 87-88 spindles and hubs
- Big Black brakes (928 GTS) w 993TT rotors on lindsey hats, 5/33 bias valve
- Intrax RSA dual adjustable coil overs (dual spring rate in the front, effective 350F/500R, no torsion bars) with racer's edge camber plates
- Elephant polybronze bushings
- Blaszak reinforced steel control arms with poly bushings
- Recently resealed power steering pump
- Parts I have lying around: Manual steering rack, Saratoga sunroof (needs work)

I've had this car for 10 years. I think it shows that I've put a lot into it. It's seen a fair amount of track usage but has been cared for in equal measure. In the end, I finally got bit by one of the car's well known weaknesses.

I don't have the time to tinker anymore and the free time I do have I'd rather spend at the track then in the engine bay.

Talk me into rebuilding the motor before I part it out or put a chevy v8 into it. Torching it is still an option, btw. So is buying a Cayman S or Carrera S, which is where I might be leaning.

But seriously...any good ideas on what to do?

minho78

Time for the 3.0L.

gt37vgt

Just buy a resonable bottom end from LART... how much Luis ?? it wont be much ..

ehall

+1

onspeed

Part the engine mods, use the money to convert to v8. preferably LS series since you track the car - aluminum block/head, although the LQ4/9 and 5.3's are significantly cheaper and with same mods, will produce about the same power, probably 10-15 less with the 5.3 than the LS/LQ.

333pg333

Can you tell us if you had any baffling in the sump and what oil you use?

lart951

$ 499.00 for a short block I only have one left, bare blocks I have at least 6 in good condition

Penguinracer

Rebuild & go for a CEP dry-sump kit.

gt37vgt

told ya ...so do you have short blocks in bits luis so he can inspect and re assemble ??

Chris White

A used 2.5 bottom end does not seem to fit with the rest of the mods, I would think that you would want a sort block that has been built to take the stress that the rest of the system is going to make.

A V8 swap – if done properly – will cost more than a well-built short block.

The ‘merits’ of a V8 swap have been beat to death elsewhere on the forum, in the end it’s a decision purely based on your own thoughts about what you think is ‘right’. Keep in mind that some PCA clubs will not allow a V8 944 to run at their DEs.

Paulyy

+ 1 for the 3L

docwyte

Why would some PCA clubs not allow an LS1'd 944 to run?

OP, either build up another short block or sell off the good engine parts and LS1 it. You won't get much for the car as it sits unless you part it completely out, which is quite a bit of work...

rlm328

Mr. White to build you something bullet proof.

minho78

That's exactly what I thought when I posted 3.0L. Mr White is about 4.5 hours away from the city.

ninefiveone

stock baffling and Mobil1 15w50, topped up before every session

Dry-sump certainly is something I was thinking about

I think this comment is spot on. Over the last 10 years I've been discovering the stock components that don't hold up under extended track usage, and replacing with improved parts as possible. If I rebuild, this will need to be a similar reliability improvement.