DrZ1

I was looking for a 80 gal compressor tank to help my small compressor with more volume. I found an old compressor, that seller said was running before he disconnected pwr. For $150 I fiqured it was worth a shot, as the few tanks I found were at least half of that. It is a Kellogg American 325-tvd, which is an old compressor, but it looks like I can still get parts.

I pulled the head off the pump and it looks like the valves need to be replaced. I was able to get a parts litst that breaks down all the parts. The bores in the cylinders look good, so I plan to just rebuild the head and see how it goes.

I would appreciate any helpful hints. I plan to dissaseble and clean the head, and the install the new valves, in reverse of how I remove. Is there any special procedures, in assembly of the valve.

Is there a reccomended tools to remove the seats or retainers or should I order the tools listed in the parts list?

One of the springs wore through the retainer, so it will need to be replaced. Should I replace all the parts in each assebly or just springs and gaskets. Each is composed of retainer/spring/valve/seat/seat gasket/

Also any ideas if 110 or 220??

Thanks
Steve

Chris White

A quick guess by the limited scope of the wiring pic is that it might be 220v – but looking at the size of the motor it could even be a 3 phase motor. It should have a spec plate on it somewhere (might be painted over). Almost all industrial motors have spec plates on them.

Same goes for the compressor – find a name plate and google it for specs/manuals/instructions.

DrZ1

Thanks Chris,

I pulled the motor and will bring it by a electrcian to see. There is no platevor spec on it. The wiring on it looks newer then the wiring on the rest of the compressor, so not sure if it has been replaced.

I will I guess need to make sure that I can use the motor, beforee getting too deep. Since I won't be able to use 3 phase unless the motor can be used for single.

Steve

Chris White

Phase converters are not a big deal...if you got a real good price on the compressor it would be worth it to get a phase converter.

Ronin-951

With the capacitors in there its definetly a single phase motor but unknown voltage. Most industrial motor are multi voltage and can be configured for 240v or 480v, sometimes 120v. I must say it is a hell of motor and should never burn out like newer ones, worth repairing the compressor, your grandchildern will appreciate it! After you do the valves, give the pressure relief system a tune up too, thats what kills them. Use non detergent oil in a 10 to 30 wieght. Good score!

DrZ1

Thankyou,

I thought it looked well built. The PR system you mention is the draining of excess water from the base of the tank or something else. There is a pressure switch that looks very old and I was thinking after it was up and running, replacing if need be.

I installed an automatic drain valve in the base, that runs about once an hour for about 5-10 seconds. I hope it holds, the drain plug was frozen, so I cut it off and tapped an 1/2 NPT thread, but the plug was thinner then I figured, so I may have to tap and thread a larger plug.

Steve

Ronin-951

The Pressure Relief valve is sometimes called the 'Unloader' valve which vents to atmosphere the pressure in the cylinders after the compression cycle is done. Makes things way easier for the belt, motor and power comsumption[your wallet] Two types, Mechanical or Electrcial. Mechanical will be a small valve in the head, Electrical will be a solenoid in the air line going to the tank.

DrZ1

May need to add that, only thing I see is a breather tube, which basically runs from the head to the base of the pump, but no valve.

Also, I called to check on repairing the clyinder head, and the parts list make mention of a seat and retainer tool. The set of 4 runs about $200. I am not sure if they are necessary for the job. If so i will probably send off to someone that already has them.

Thanks
Steve

Edit:

Just got in from a local auto repair shop that claims to work on compressors as well. One of the techs said he had worked on a Kellog years back and made his own tool. He thought the retainers were not real tight. I may try that and see before ordering any parts and tools or sending it out.

ramius665

Best of luck, I need to replace mine too.

67King

Interesting about the capacitors. I know they are needed to get the motor turning the right direction, but I didn't realize it was only for single phase.

Otherwise - agree this thing has to be a 220. I can't see it being a 110.

And I'll throw in my 2 cents - I bought an 80 gallon, 2-stage compressor. Easily one of the best purchases I've made regarding tools (unlike the mill I never use - grrr....).

Ronin-951

Single Phase motors have two, or multiples of two, windings, Three Phase motors have three, or multiples of three, windings. Caps store energy for a fraction of a second, causing a 'Phase Shift' in one motor winding thus producing a rotational magnetic field to start the rotor spining. Once up to speed, a switch in the 'End Bell' housing drops it out of the circuit and the rotational drag of the rotor [Slip] and load keeps the rotor pulling to the strong magnetic center of the winding poles. Three Phase means the three poles are fed by three seperate supply wires that are 120 electrical degrees out of 'Phase' with each other, thus providing a rotational magnetic field by themselves. Couple of other observations to note, I dont see a 'Popoff' valve, a max tank pressure safety device which vents tank pressure to atmosphere if the 'Off Set Point' fails and the tank is overpressured to bursting...MUST have, its a small brass device with its PSI rating stamped on it that can be installed in any tank port. Then the motor pulley, better fix or replace it or it will eat and spit belts which then brings up the need for a belt guard, eather put that side against a wall or build a cage for it.

DrZ1

Well, took a break from my car Sat to finish the compressor. I had already rebuilt the head, and had most of the parts on hand. I had taken the motor to a shop to confirm 220 and single phase, also that it worked properly. Which it did.

I had a friend come out and wire it up, and I finished trading out the old plumbing, oil, and installed the new head.


I was suprised at how quite it was, compared to the small compressor I was using. It worked out good. At about $300 in , $150 for compressor and about another $150 for parts. The Co. I bought the parts from was nice enough to sell me the valve tools for cost, which list was $200. I would have not been able to remove w/o, or at least been able to reuse the valve seats.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

Ronin-951

Thanks for the update, Garage life is sooo much easier with a rattle gun. One upgrade that is worth the money is a retractable hose reel, you deserve it.

gt37vgt

Nice one worth more than 300...you'l get heaps of use out it ..

DrZ1

I still have alot of work to do on the shop, I plan to install a reel in the near future.

I am ecstatic that it is working so well, after the time put into it. WHen I drained the old oil, it was nasty as all getout. I refilled with some castrol oil, and spun by hand a bit, then drained and repeated. Then I drained again, and put in a whole bottle of Marvin Mystry oil again spinning by hand. I left this in for a couple weeks, ocasionally spinning. Then The day befor working on it. I drained and added a quart of non detergent 30 wt oil. I fired it up and let run a cycle, then I drained it and added a Quart of the Amsoil 4 stroke oil, that was was reccommended to me by the compressor dealer I bought the other parts from. I will leave this in for 3-6 months, and change again, then probably change every couple years.



I wish I had done this sooo much sooner, as I have been really struggling when I used my air tools with the compressor I took out of my office when I upgraded. Not to mention hearing that thing constantly run. I put this in the back room of my shop, and now hardly really notice it with the music on.

Steve