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Transaxel coupler binding

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Old 06-12-2010, 09:12 PM
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Tayloray
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Default Transaxel coupler binding

Okay so i got a 951, and after a couple weeks, i heard a grinding noise from the rear. so after allot of trouble shooting, it turns out to be that the torque tube splines are stripped. so i went to slide the coupler towards the transaxel after removing the two allen bolts, and it keeps getting stuck, i can move it back up, and down, but not far enough to remove the transaxel, any ides is to what i should do?
Old 06-12-2010, 09:27 PM
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JohnKoaWood
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Originally Posted by Tayloray
Okay so i got a 951, and after a couple weeks, i heard a grinding noise from the rear. so after allot of trouble shooting, it turns out to be that the torque tube splines are stripped. so i went to slide the coupler towards the transaxel after removing the two allen bolts, and it keeps getting stuck, i can move it back up, and down, but not far enough to remove the transaxel, any ides is to what i should do?
I would pull the trans like normal, but you MAY have to drop the torsion bar carrier to get the clearance under the gas tank to pull the trans out!

let the TT drop WITH the trans....
Old 06-12-2010, 09:31 PM
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Tayloray
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that's what I was thinking. dammit. I wonder if there is any other way around it
Old 06-12-2010, 09:37 PM
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JohnKoaWood
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There is another way around it... You can use search or just trust me, young man had to take a saws-all to his coupler to get it all apart...
Old 06-12-2010, 09:42 PM
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Tayloray
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I tried a grinder, but it would not fit. a saws-all works though?
Old 06-12-2010, 10:11 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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The TT has big hooks that prevent it from sliding back unless it is turned upside down -- so don't think it will work to pull the transaxle with the TT attached -- unless you virtually remove the rear suspension and torsion tube carrier.

Are you planning to rebuild that TT and replace its driveshaft, or are you going to get a replacement? If you are not rebuilding it, you can always cut a bigger hole in the TT bellhousing to gain better -- Dremel with carbon fiber cut-off wheel cuts like butter. Seems like you should be able to get "something" in there to cut the coupler without cutting the bellhousing though...
Old 06-12-2010, 10:49 PM
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xsboost90
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usually you can get a pry bar into the hole at the front of the coupler, and push it back onto the transaxel. Lemme know if you need a coupler.
Old 06-13-2010, 01:56 AM
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Tayloray
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I've tried the pry bar thing for hours and hours, and it doesnt work. hence why i posted this. and elliot has a few couplers so i'm getting one off him.
Old 06-13-2010, 02:40 AM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Can you actually see the splines stripped/damaged? If not, you might try loosening the transaxle mounting bolts and working the coupler with the tranny at different angles. It the angle is off slightly, the coupler will bind up.
Old 06-13-2010, 08:43 AM
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MM951
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SawzAll will not cut through the coupling.......not even with 30$ fire rescue blades.. .it sucks when it sticks, ask me how I know
Old 06-13-2010, 09:08 AM
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Bigger crow bar. I have a three footer I usually use to move the coupler back.
If the torque tube splines are stripped you are going to have to remove the torque tube anyway – which requires dropping the rear suspension. So the coupler getting stuck it not a significant problem – it all has to come out!
Old 06-13-2010, 02:55 PM
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Tayloray
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I thought your didn't have to remove the rear suspension to get the tt out? and ideas on how to get to the downpipe flange bolts other than a 2ft extention
Old 06-13-2010, 03:29 PM
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eniac
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Originally Posted by MM951
SawzAll will not cut through the coupling.......not even with 30$ fire rescue blades.. .it sucks when it sticks, ask me how I know
It will, I've had to do it before. It took three blades to get the thing cut in half.

Originally Posted by Tayloray
I thought your didn't have to remove the rear suspension to get the tt out? and ideas on how to get to the downpipe flange bolts other than a 2ft extention
You have to lower the torsion tube some which requires unbolting the rear suspension but it doesn't really need to come out.

Originally Posted by Tayloray
I've tried the pry bar thing for hours and hours, and it doesnt work. hence why i posted this. and elliot has a few couplers so i'm getting one off him.
If the splines are stripped on the coupler, that could prevent the coupler from sliding over the trans splines and forcing it may damage the trans input shaft.
Old 06-13-2010, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Tayloray
I thought your didn't have to remove the rear suspension to get the tt out? and ideas on how to get to the downpipe flange bolts other than a 2ft extention
A 3' extension....
Old 06-16-2010, 01:08 PM
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so I wad able to slide it a little bit. and in the end, I pushed back my spare tire well enough to slide the trans back a couple of inches which was enough to disconnect the two. now I need to get the tt out and find a replacment. is anyone in the central Florida area selling one? I found one on cl but the guy can't pull it for another couple weeks, and he wants $400 which seems high considering I see them on eBay for 200.


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