How to time balance shafts w/o covers.
#1
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How to time balance shafts w/o covers.
About to install a fresh motor in an 86 951 and do not want or have non broken belt covers. I know for the t belt the flywheel shows mark through bell housing for TDC then cam gear has mark to line up with notch on housing. As for the balance belt what should i do. Crank still at tdc i know the drivers side shaft needs mark going somewhere near 12 o clock and pass. shaft somewhere near 6 o clock.
#2
Rocket Scientist
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Use the factory covers to scribe marks on the balance shaft front metal caps. Personally, I'd think twice before running without the covers, specifically on a street car.
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DDP i know its not the smartest thing. I have done it before and scribed the marks like you said. Van is that right? with the up and down pointers? which mark do you use the 0 in the front of pulley or arrow on rear of pulley
#5
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Here is an illustration I did a while back that I think should help.
I think it shows the angles pretty well. I run w/o covers and this is what I use to set mine.
I think it shows the angles pretty well. I run w/o covers and this is what I use to set mine.
#7
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If I recall, because the engine is slanted, the purple marks in Ben's diagram are almost lined up with vertical...
Certainly scribing the marks on the housings would be the best bet.
Certainly scribing the marks on the housings would be the best bet.
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#8
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His illustration is correct. (At least that's how I lined mine up). I just held up my old cover to the engine, and lined them up. Top is at 1 o'clock, and bottom is at 7 o'clock.
The BS belt teeth are big, so if you're a tooth off, its very noticeable.
(I didn't think there was 6 of us w/o belt covers lol)
The BS belt teeth are big, so if you're a tooth off, its very noticeable.
(I didn't think there was 6 of us w/o belt covers lol)
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im running custom splitter panels as well which cover bottom so road debri should not be a problem. looks like this thread was able to help some people thats great. and m73 your right with 1 and 7 o clock in mind the teeth are big, its hard to F up.
#11
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When the pulleys get wet they'll rust, rocks and such aren't your only enemy here.
Anyways, like Van said, that picture is more upright than the engine is. So in reality when you look at the engine, the keyways on the balance shafts should both be at 11 o'clock. The 0's are opposite of each other, like seen in the picture.
Anyways, like Van said, that picture is more upright than the engine is. So in reality when you look at the engine, the keyways on the balance shafts should both be at 11 o'clock. The 0's are opposite of each other, like seen in the picture.
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bring on the rust. lol motor is about to go back in. timing belt is done. geuss ill wait and do balance belt when motor is in so i can clock the marks correctly.
#14
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I'm just speaking from my experience. It only took about 1k miles before mine looked like garbage on my new motor. (I also had a splitter with belly pan) And when you don't have the stock airbox, you can see the rusted turds pretty easily. I'm all about deleting and simplifying, but I've realized there is a point where it's overdone. I'm personally not ok with something looking like crap shortly after I spent thousands to make it right. Just trying to give you a heads up. It's different on a track car when you want ease of access.
#15
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DDP i see ur point my are already rusty and i havent driven the car yet. but i can live with that because i can always check the tension. and i can a lil of WD and its fine