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Help a fellow 951 racer with Dyno problems!

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Old 04-12-2010, 10:49 PM
  #31  
Lemming
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
Lol, your not changing anything that wasn't adjustable from the factory anyway - I don't see how it is any different then getting an aggressive alignment (except clicking the FQS is easier).
Work with what you've got - use it to its full potential, IMO.
5.1. Cockpit adjustable engine management systems
All adjustable engine management systems must be declared on the Dynamometer Certification Form. Failure to do so will result in disqualification of all timed sessions for the weekend. Adjustable engine management systems include but are not limited to systems such as MoTec and MegaSquirt that can upload and download from external computers, potentiometers, diodes, and switches that can alter signals from engine sensors and other factory installed devices such as traction control that change engine performance when non-drive wheels are stationary.
Old 04-12-2010, 11:00 PM
  #32  
docwyte
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Basically if you decide to run the car with a certain FQS setting, that has to be the setting you *always* run in and you must dyno and race with that setting making a legal amount of power for your class.

You can't run one setting, then try to change the setting if you end up being chosen to dyno after a race. That's blatantly cheating, no better than having switchable boost maps and running a high boost map on the track and then swapping to a low boost map for the dyno.

I'm sure cheating goes on, but I'd hope that all here recognize that this is for fun. McLaren and Ferrari aren't going to knock on your door because you have a podium finish at your regional NASA event...
Old 04-12-2010, 11:03 PM
  #33  
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Well the DME doesn't fall under the specific examples. But I suppose it falls under the blanket "adjustable engine management system". By that definition, every DME is "adjustable" and should be declared - I highly doubt that is the case in practice though...
Old 04-12-2010, 11:06 PM
  #34  
docwyte
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If you can gain an advantage by fiddling with the DME, either by uploading different maps, or switching maps/settings, it's illegal. You have to run the same settings on the track as you do for dyno's etc and those settings have to put you at a legal power level for your class.

If you change settings in order to dyno at a lower number so you can have a competitive advantage on track, that's clear cut cheating.
Old 04-12-2010, 11:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by LUCKY DAVE
Umm....no.
Only an eddy current dyno reads actual horsepower. If you don't believe me, just run your car on an inertial dyno with a set of heavy rear wheels. Then bolt on some super light wheels and run it again.
The result will be that you just "made" more power. Did you really?
Of course not, and that's what's wrong with inertial dynos.
Any dyno numbers can be fudged, it depends on how accurately the correction factors are entered. Keep in mind most dyno operations are in the game to make tuners feel like heros.
You just proved my point - you have to make a physical change to the car to change the Dynojet numbers. I asked you to show me what a Dyno operator could do to change them. Remember that the chassis dyno is only reading the RWHP numbers - not the flywheel numbers. So if you dyno with heavy wheels and then go racing with those same heavy wheels guess what happens? You lose performance. So the Dynojet stayed true. That is how it's supposed to work. But when no changes are made to the car and the dyno operator is able to falsely produce numbers by modifying the parameters in a computer - like is possible on an Eddy Current dyno - you can get whatever readings you wish to produce. To recap - Dynojet is the most reliable because it is the most difficult to fudge. That is one of the reasons why they use them in JGTC and Nascar.
Old 04-12-2010, 11:13 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by docwyte
If you can gain an advantage by fiddling with the DME, either by uploading different maps, or switching maps/settings, it's illegal. You have to run the same settings on the track as you do for dyno's etc and those settings have to put you at a legal power level for your class.

If you change settings in order to dyno at a lower number so you can have a competitive advantage on track, that's clear cut cheating.
Could have sworn you just said that

Tough crowd tonight. I guess it is simply where your personal line of black vs white is...
Question - do people have 'track-tires' that they use only when on the track, and then switch to regular tires for the drive home?
Old 04-12-2010, 11:18 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
Lol, your not changing anything that wasn't adjustable from the factory anyway - I don't see how it is any different then getting an aggressive alignment (except clicking the FQS is easier).
Work with what you've got - use it to its full potential, IMO.
Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
Could have sworn you just said that

Tough crowd tonight. I guess it is simply where your personal line of black vs white is...
Question - do people have 'track-tires' that they use only when on the track, and then switch to regular tires for the drive home?
Yes, most of us use Load Range E tires on our diesel trucks and trailers

Black and white, to cheat or not to cheat!
Old 04-12-2010, 11:27 PM
  #38  
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A couple of clicks up on the parking brake should be good for one dyno run…..
Old 04-12-2010, 11:33 PM
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So the spirit of the hp rule is too keep everyone one an "even" playing field?
Does everyone run the exact same tires/suspension?

And once again - according to the rule you posted, the DME FQS does not explicitly break that rule.
Old 04-12-2010, 11:44 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
So the spirit of the hp rule is too keep everyone one an "even" playing field?
Does everyone run the exact same tires/suspension?

And once again - according to the rule you posted, the DME FQS does not explicitly break that rule.
Everything is based on WT/HP (slightly different when Torq is greater than whp). GTS2 has a cut off of 14.5, GTS3 is 11. Cut points are different for all-wheel drives and non-Dot slicks.

As for the FQS, if you can change it from the time you come off of track to the time you get to the dyno, and it changes your whp and torq, then you must declare it based my discussions with the series director. If you do not and are protested then my bet is you would be DQ'ed if they discovered it.
Old 04-13-2010, 12:25 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Chris White
A couple of clicks up on the parking brake should be good for one dyno run…..
You sneaky bastard
Old 04-13-2010, 12:48 AM
  #42  
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Those numbers don't sound out of line to me, though 224 ft lbs at the wheel is healthy if this is not an S. Might check to make sure the hose from the banjo bolt to cycling valve, and from cycling valve to wastegate, are tight and secure with no leaks. Those hoses have compression clamps from the factory and it's not uncomon for them to leak as the original hoses get old and hard. If those lines leak, they can slow the wastegate from opening and create more power. One of the very early mods for these cars was to drill a hole in the cycling valve to slow the rate at which the wastegate opened. Just a thought...
Old 04-13-2010, 01:08 AM
  #43  
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Why dont you just change the FQS thing and leave it there and that way you can be legit.
Old 04-13-2010, 08:51 AM
  #44  
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Thanks for the ideas gentlemen, time to get to work. First to fix the body damage.
Old 04-13-2010, 09:58 AM
  #45  
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Skip - I don't know about Nelson Ledges this year, we are kind of booked up with racing right now.



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