Why didn't Porsche paint the Spindles in certain areas ?
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Check 2bridges thread on "it's alive....". He has done a lot of renovation and repainting work including spindles.
Re wear. Spindles don't wear, they break. Overheated wheel bearings can also damage the spindles. The only potential wear area is where the seal contacts the spindle. With grease and dirt it can create an abrasive situation. As long as the grooving is not deep, and its even then its good to go. You can clean the surface (not to get the groove out)with wet and dry 600grit or similar, lubricated with WD40 works best.
Re wear. Spindles don't wear, they break. Overheated wheel bearings can also damage the spindles. The only potential wear area is where the seal contacts the spindle. With grease and dirt it can create an abrasive situation. As long as the grooving is not deep, and its even then its good to go. You can clean the surface (not to get the groove out)with wet and dry 600grit or similar, lubricated with WD40 works best.
I will check out that thread
Kind regards
Ed
#17
I just sand blasted mine yesterday at work and I'm going to powder coat them with a bunch of other stuff. I have lots of time to do it because my 3.0L is still being built and I am waiting for new wheel bearings.
Jason
Jason
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here the are cleaned up
This took way more time than I care to admit ...
But I think they are ready to paint ... A little primer and hi temp enamel paint ..
I should probably powder coat them, but I am to cheap...
Regards
Ed
But I think they are ready to paint ... A little primer and hi temp enamel paint ..
I should probably powder coat them, but I am to cheap...
Regards
Ed
#19
I'll be on it tomorrow... like a Hobo on a $50.
Pictures will follow ... the main rust area, was where the hub meets the disc guard which in turn meets then meets the spindle The rust really came from the disc protector on the bare metal on the spindle
Pictures will follow ... the main rust area, was where the hub meets the disc guard which in turn meets then meets the spindle The rust really came from the disc protector on the bare metal on the spindle
Because i am lazy, i don't waste my time to clean parts with "elbow grease". I just put all dirty and rusty parts to overnight citric acid bath. After that just rinse parts with hot water, dry them and they are ready to paint.Acid will remove all the dirt & rust effectively.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ed,
Because i am lazy, i don't waste my time to clean parts with "elbow grease". I just put all dirty and rusty parts to overnight citric acid bath. After that just rinse parts with hot water, dry them and they are ready to paint.Acid will remove all the dirt & rust effectively.
Because i am lazy, i don't waste my time to clean parts with "elbow grease". I just put all dirty and rusty parts to overnight citric acid bath. After that just rinse parts with hot water, dry them and they are ready to paint.Acid will remove all the dirt & rust effectively.
I know you mentioned before citric acid but the only one I ever saw that was sold out here in CA, is one that is used on redwood fences to remove the oxidation and make the woods tannin show like it did before it turns gray .. Do you make your own? I know they sell it in food stores (as a lemon substitute) I would have had them powder coated, but I am sure that would have cost another 50 bucks... I didn't want to spend that on something no one will probably ever see...
All the best
Kind regards
Ed
#21
I get it from a local farming equipment store. It's 99% citric acid and main purpose is to heal bad stomach of pigs
5kg is aroud $20. In my purposes 5kg last usually about 2 years.
5kg is aroud $20. In my purposes 5kg last usually about 2 years.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK I can get the same stuff except is a bit more expensive buying it from a food store .. What is the the ratio of citric acid to water ? i.e. 3 tablespoons to one cup of water ?