Cool new toy...Infrared Thermography
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Part of what I do to support the P-habit is building envelope diagnostics, which utilizes with some fun toys. One of those toys is thermographic camera. Thought you guys might find these interesting.
Engine bay at start up
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/EnginebayIR002.jpg)
Engine bay after a short run. Check out temp. differences and how cool the intercooler pipes are.
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/EnginebayIR015.jpg)
Cam cover
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/EnginebayIR013.jpg)
Coolant tank
Engine bay at start up
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/EnginebayIR002.jpg)
Engine bay after a short run. Check out temp. differences and how cool the intercooler pipes are.
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/EnginebayIR015.jpg)
Cam cover
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/EnginebayIR013.jpg)
Coolant tank
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/EnginebayIR012.jpg)
Last edited by Fluidplay; 04-03-2010 at 01:12 PM.
#6
Rennlist Member
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I got to use one this summer for a little bit: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...al-photos.html
Sadly another department needed it so I didn't get to take any more pics with it
Sadly another department needed it so I didn't get to take any more pics with it
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Yep, pic prior to install. Cam tower powder coated yellow, intake powder coated aluminum and headers, crossover, down pipe and exhaust thermal coated.
![](http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/fluidplay/IMG_3598-1.jpg)
#9
Race Director
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Looking at the intake pic, it appears that there is a decent amount of heat soak (to be expected) where it attaches to the block at the 4 runners.
With that in mind, it goes a long in saying that the best place for a H2O/Meth injection would be four individual mini nozzles placed halfway down each runner to maintain the cooler air, in lieu of larger singular jets located pre or post IC, or @ the TB location.
Now if I can just get the damn time.....
With that in mind, it goes a long in saying that the best place for a H2O/Meth injection would be four individual mini nozzles placed halfway down each runner to maintain the cooler air, in lieu of larger singular jets located pre or post IC, or @ the TB location.
Now if I can just get the damn time.....
#10
Rennlist Member
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With that in mind, it goes a long in saying that the best place for a H2O/Meth injection would be four individual mini nozzles placed halfway down each runner to maintain the cooler air, in lieu of larger singular jets located pre or post IC, or @ the TB location.
Now if I can just get the damn time.....
Now if I can just get the damn time.....
Could you somehow piggyback on the fuel injector locations??
#11
Addict
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I'm surprised that the inlet tube to the intercooler (from the turbo) appears to be as cool as the outlet tube. Guess that would look very different if it was under boost.
And thanks for posting, that's great stuff!
And thanks for posting, that's great stuff!
#12
Three Wheelin'
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Just for those unfamiliar with thermography: It ain't as easy as it looks!
Be wary of the different emissivity of different surfaces, they can screw up your measurements big time. A shiny surface reading 200F could actually be at 280F or more. The pro's stick a bit of masking tape or special paint (matte black) on any surface they need an accurate temperature from.
Also, reflections are a big problem with thermography, you could actually be looking at yourself! Use a "scanning" technique (change of position and angle) to see if the hot spots stay in the same place.
Despite what you see in the movies, thermography doesn't work through walls, glass or perspex.
More info on www.flir.com
Best,
Mike
Be wary of the different emissivity of different surfaces, they can screw up your measurements big time. A shiny surface reading 200F could actually be at 280F or more. The pro's stick a bit of masking tape or special paint (matte black) on any surface they need an accurate temperature from.
Also, reflections are a big problem with thermography, you could actually be looking at yourself! Use a "scanning" technique (change of position and angle) to see if the hot spots stay in the same place.
Despite what you see in the movies, thermography doesn't work through walls, glass or perspex.
More info on www.flir.com
Best,
Mike
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
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Looking at the intake pic, it appears that there is a decent amount of heat soak (to be expected) where it attaches to the block at the 4 runners.
With that in mind, it goes a long in saying that the best place for a H2O/Meth injection would be four individual mini nozzles placed halfway down each runner to maintain the cooler air, in lieu of larger singular jets located pre or post IC, or @ the TB location.
Now if I can just get the damn time.....
With that in mind, it goes a long in saying that the best place for a H2O/Meth injection would be four individual mini nozzles placed halfway down each runner to maintain the cooler air, in lieu of larger singular jets located pre or post IC, or @ the TB location.
Now if I can just get the damn time.....
Only time that per runner injectors become safe (IMHO) is when you have lots of failsafes and warnings. In particular a failsafe that can detect one nozzle blocked.
#14
Rennlist Member
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Just for those unfamiliar with thermography: It ain't as easy as it looks!
Be wary of the different emissivity of different surfaces, they can screw up your measurements big time. A shiny surface reading 200F could actually be at 280F or more. The pro's stick a bit of masking tape or special paint (matte black) on any surface they need an accurate temperature from.
Also, reflections are a big problem with thermography, you could actually be looking at yourself! Use a "scanning" technique (change of position and angle) to see if the hot spots stay in the same place.
Despite what you see in the movies, thermography doesn't work through walls, glass or perspex.
More info on www.flir.com
Best,
Mike
Be wary of the different emissivity of different surfaces, they can screw up your measurements big time. A shiny surface reading 200F could actually be at 280F or more. The pro's stick a bit of masking tape or special paint (matte black) on any surface they need an accurate temperature from.
Also, reflections are a big problem with thermography, you could actually be looking at yourself! Use a "scanning" technique (change of position and angle) to see if the hot spots stay in the same place.
Despite what you see in the movies, thermography doesn't work through walls, glass or perspex.
More info on www.flir.com
Best,
Mike
#15
Team Owner
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.Just wondering here but we use hand held laser thermometers in one of our digital printing processes as a back up to the built in infrared thermocouple controls. I think I'll borrow one tomorrow and run out to my car after driving in. Wonder how that will work? Only measure a very small spot on one part, but of course has to be on the surface and visible. Hummmm