tman

I had a similar issue with mine. A new griffin radiator and a new water pump improved it but it was still running too hot at higher speed. Adding some vents on the hood fixed it. Apparently there was not enough airlfow thru the radiator at speed.

tconn

If your using the stock temp gauge, I'm with John, check it first.
I had a bad temp gauge that would slowly spike after driving.
Took me a little while to fugure it out.

reno808

bleed the system. sounds like their is air in it. when you think u have gotten all of the air out bleed it again. make sure your res cap is good. also leave your t-stat on because if you take it off it wont allow the coolant to cool in the rad.

reno808

Also take the temp of the in and out hose there should be a temp difference. if there isnt then its the prob is in circulation. somehting may be clogged in the rad

Jeff N.

+1 for a flow test / inspection on the radiator.

333pg333

Ok some more facts:

When I cracked the bleed bolt initially at the track, just steam came out....(before I tightened it again....and it broke off with half inside the hole...but that's just another part of the joy of racing!!!).
So we fixed that and bled the system so only coolant came out. If it were a headgasket, then It would be pissing coolant out a lot more and be visible on some part of the car or underneath. None of this.

The temp gauge is the one out of the Grey car as it's the whole dash. Not sure where the sensors are though? Therefore not sure if they're from old or new car? Sean might have to chime in about this.
Not sure how to measure temps in and out of radiator? In and out were both getting warm/hot though.

Boost was 1.1 bar and then I even went out at .6 bar to see the difference. Very little. 98oct (Aust) pump gas and I think it's on image '3' John but maybe '4'. Again, I'd have to check with Sean.

Batwing is in place and we ducted plenty of air into the radiator. I'll get Sean to take some pics to show.
We have the D9 side vents which I believe should help vacate plenty of underhood heat, but having a central one like Duke's might be a good idea too.

Wish I'd taken some E85 just to see how much cooler it might have made the block.

aben8057

what about the thermo switch on the radiator? If that is faulty, what effects could that have besides not triggering the fans?

reno808

get a temperature laser reader they are cheap
http://www.google.com/products/catal...3&ved=0CBwQ8gI

I really do nothing think the problem is with ur fuel

Van

As I said before, I've had head gaskets start to go, producing blow-by, which causes just enough air/steam to build up at the top of the block to make the gauge run hot and steam comes out of the bleeder...

Of course I've had head gaskets blow catastrophically - that's that's a totally different experience.

shiners780

Same thing happened to me. No oil/coolant transfer, no coolant overflow, just air buildup in the cooling system and a higher than normal temp gauge reading. Replaced the head gasket and all was well.

333pg333

Are you guys talking about stock head gaskets or Metal?

shiners780

Mine was stock.

Ian Carr

Hood VENT right behind the radiator and intercooler makes a lot of sense. there is not much air flow into the engine bay, but being able to draw air and heat out would make such a difference

gt37vgt

the vents Pat has are the big D9 louvers over the tower tops . in my opinion a better set up they would keep more of the engine bay breazzy and put less hot air on his rear wing more thin less draggy hot air on his side windows .

Van

-Stock (the LeMons 944 Dragon)

-Copper (my car)