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Stripped the glide plate allen screws on caliper

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Old 03-21-2010, 08:03 PM
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Crazy Eddie

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Default Stripped the glide plate allen screws on caliper

Has anyone run into this and if so how do you remedy...?
Standard approach is to drill it out, but this is a very small area (I don't think I can get the angle needed, to drill it out head on??
Any ideas, would be welcome
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:44 PM
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60Driver
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Originally Posted by Crazy Eddie
Has anyone run into this and if so how do you remedy...?
Standard approach is to drill it out, but this is a very small area (I don't think I can get the angle needed, to drill it out head on??
Any ideas, would be welcome
Just a thought, not based on any type of experience, but can you cut a groove across the bolt head with a dremel and use a large flathead screwdriver to torque it out?
Old 03-21-2010, 11:40 PM
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TexasBlake
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Whenever I've stripped out allen head bolts, I'll beat a little bit larger Torx socket into place. A cheesehead (12 point) doesn't seem to work as good as a Torx.

If that won't work, I'll weld a hex nut on top.

Drilling is always my LAST resort.
Old 03-22-2010, 12:06 AM
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potent951turbo
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I'd try a small chisel on the edge of the bolt head and tap it with a hammer to slowly turn it out.
Old 03-22-2010, 02:22 AM
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Crazy Eddie

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Originally Posted by 60Driver
Just a thought, not based on any type of experience, but can you cut a groove across the bolt head with a dremel and use a large flathead screwdriver to torque it out?
That was what I was thinking as a next step, unless someone who has done this, says don't bother because it wont work ....
It's in such a $hi%^ position, that's really hard to get to, except with a Dremel ...
Thanks
Ed
Old 03-22-2010, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasBlake
Whenever I've stripped out allen head bolts, I'll beat a little bit larger Torx socket into place. A cheesehead (12 point) doesn't seem to work as good as a Torx.

If that won't work, I'll weld a hex nut on top.

Drilling is always my LAST resort.
I dont even know if I can drill it out because of the angle it presents...
And sadly, there really very little room to hammer anything into it ... Because of the angle .... Otherwise I would try that ...
As for the weld ..Hummm I may have to call in the reserves ....
Hey Tom, got that MIG welder handy
Old 03-22-2010, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by potent951turbo
I'd try a small chisel on the edge of the bolt head and tap it with a hammer to slowly turn it out.
You mean try to turn the head by hitting it at a 90 degree angle... Or pry it off the guide plate
Thanks
Ed
Old 03-22-2010, 03:06 AM
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potent951turbo
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Originally Posted by Crazy Eddie
You mean try to turn the head by hitting it at a 90 degree angle... Or pry it off the guide plate
Thanks
Ed
Exactly, I have gotten a lot of bolts turning this way. Just angle the chisel in there and tap with the hammer, it will make a groove on the bolt head edge, and then tap away, that should get it turning. Once it starts turning you can just move your chisel and start again on a new spot until its out.

I don't think a dremel is going to work in this situation. It may, but even if you get a nice groove cut, the screw driver isn't going to give you much leverage and will probably just slip out of the groove.
Old 03-22-2010, 03:33 AM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by Crazy Eddie
I dont even know if I can drill it out because of the angle it presents...
And sadly, there really very little room to hammer anything into it ... Because of the angle .... Otherwise I would try that ...
As for the weld ..Hummm I may have to call in the reserves ....
Hey Tom, got that MIG welder handy
You bet! Of course it's about 50/50 whether (a) I weld the key in the screw or (b) I weld the screw in the caliper.... My sears welder is not really a precision tool (and I weld like a zoo animal). But I'm game if you are...
Old 03-22-2010, 04:33 AM
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that looks like a turbo S caliper. what were you trying to do?
Old 03-22-2010, 07:22 AM
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Luis de Prat
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Originally Posted by TexasBlake
Whenever I've stripped out allen head bolts, I'll beat a little bit larger Torx socket into place. A cheesehead (12 point) doesn't seem to work as good as a Torx.

If that won't work, I'll weld a hex nut on top.

Drilling is always my LAST resort.
If the torx fails to get it out, I would try using an extractor drill bit manually. I've found its reverse spiral shape bites into the rounded allen head better than the torx does.

You'll need a set of extractor bits, and choose one just large enough to fit in the allen head. Then tap it in gently with a hammer and use a suitable wrench on the bit to make it turn.
Old 03-22-2010, 11:31 AM
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CarbonRevo
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Why are you removing the plates?
Old 03-22-2010, 11:32 AM
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I always use the cutting wheel and a big flat screwdriver technique
Old 03-22-2010, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CarbonRevo
Why are you removing the plates?
My guess would be plate lift. My rears are doing it. The edge curls up and doesn't allow you to install a fresh pad.

From what I've read, the trick shops use is to heat it up. The factory loctite has to be pretty stubborn...
Old 03-22-2010, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
You bet! Of course it's about 50/50 whether (a) I weld the key in the screw or (b) I weld the screw in the caliper.... My sears welder is not really a precision tool (and I weld like a zoo animal). But I'm game if you are...
You kill me !!


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