Stripped the glide plate allen screws on caliper
03-22-2010, 08:21 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey Luis
Sorry for some reason the rennlist didn't send me an email on the responses
I was attepemting to remove these end plates to powder coat the calipers as they are looking pretty sad these days
Thanks for the parts bud.. got'em Sat
Regards
Ed
Sorry for some reason the rennlist didn't send me an email on the responses
I was attepemting to remove these end plates to powder coat the calipers as they are looking pretty sad these days
Thanks for the parts bud.. got'em Sat
Regards
Ed
03-22-2010, 08:25 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If the torx fails to get it out, I would try using an extractor drill bit manually. I've found its reverse spiral shape bites into the rounded allen head better than the torx does.
You'll need a set of extractor bits, and choose one just large enough to fit in the allen head. Then tap it in gently with a hammer and use a suitable wrench on the bit to make it turn.
You'll need a set of extractor bits, and choose one just large enough to fit in the allen head. Then tap it in gently with a hammer and use a suitable wrench on the bit to make it turn.
I have that and will try that. So, I shouldn't try it on a drill but rather use it on a wrench
Thanks
Kind regards
Ed
03-22-2010, 08:33 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I knew as soon as I looked at those screws that I was in for a real Screwing !!
A year or two after I bought the car ( back in 88) I raced the car at Summit Pt and used the same pads as I used for Bridgehampton and I toasted the rotors I should have rebuilt the brakes back then .... I knew anything I touch on these brakes is going to a real joy.... The plates are in reasonable shape ...
I heated them PB Blasted them, massaged them ... Yada Yada Yada...
You name it I did it...
Regards
Ed
03-22-2010, 10:21 PM
#19
Drifting
I didn't even bother removing those when I painted mine a few weeks ago. No one will ever see that part and it's really not worth the trouble. Just be concerned how the outside is done.
Make sure to have the calipers media blasted. Compress all o the pistons prior to that. Media blasting will remove any old brake fluid, too. Anthers tiny glass beads can get and strip paint, your powdercoat or paint will get.
I'll try to post a picture of mine tonight.
Make sure to have the calipers media blasted. Compress all o the pistons prior to that. Media blasting will remove any old brake fluid, too. Anthers tiny glass beads can get and strip paint, your powdercoat or paint will get.
I'll try to post a picture of mine tonight.
03-22-2010, 10:36 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
The risk is that the head willl break off when you try and remove them. If these were not S calipers then I would recomend junking them, replaements are cheap.
You can split the caliper to get better access, but you may never get them back together again properly. I would suggest trying the chisel method, with lots of heat. If the head breaks off you will be forced to split the caliper as a last resort.
You can split the caliper to get better access, but you may never get them back together again properly. I would suggest trying the chisel method, with lots of heat. If the head breaks off you will be forced to split the caliper as a last resort.
03-22-2010, 11:53 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I didn't even bother removing those when I painted mine a few weeks ago. No one will ever see that part and it's really not worth the trouble. Just be concerned how the outside is done.
Make sure to have the calipers media blasted. Compress all o the pistons prior to that. Media blasting will remove any old brake fluid, too. Anthers tiny glass beads can get and strip paint, your powdercoat or paint will get.
I'll try to post a picture of mine tonight.
Make sure to have the calipers media blasted. Compress all o the pistons prior to that. Media blasting will remove any old brake fluid, too. Anthers tiny glass beads can get and strip paint, your powdercoat or paint will get.
I'll try to post a picture of mine tonight.
Thanks
Ed
I would love to see your calipers
03-22-2010, 11:57 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The risk is that the head willl break off when you try and remove them. If these were not S calipers then I would recomend junking them, replaements are cheap.
You can split the caliper to get better access, but you may never get them back together again properly. I would suggest trying the chisel method, with lots of heat. If the head breaks off you will be forced to split the caliper as a last resort.
You can split the caliper to get better access, but you may never get them back together again properly. I would suggest trying the chisel method, with lots of heat. If the head breaks off you will be forced to split the caliper as a last resort.
I think at this point I may just may screw it ( pun intended )
and paint them the way they are ...
There is no way I am splitting those calipers
Regards
Ed
03-23-2010, 12:21 AM
#23
Drifting
Dude you cant give up haha.
What I would try (although I've never had to do this before):
Soak the bolt head area with wd40, securely fix caliper in large vise, heat the **** out of it. Get your chisel/sharp *** piece of tool steel and try your best to land a really good hit on the bolt. If it doesn't work then try the zoo animal's welding skills haha.
Good luck dude.
What I would try (although I've never had to do this before):
Soak the bolt head area with wd40, securely fix caliper in large vise, heat the **** out of it. Get your chisel/sharp *** piece of tool steel and try your best to land a really good hit on the bolt. If it doesn't work then try the zoo animal's welding skills haha.
Good luck dude.
03-23-2010, 12:42 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK
Here is the score card .... Not good
First, I tried the torx bit ... There was no way to really do it because of the angle that was available.
Second I tried the chisel method but after 4 smacks one of which glanced off ( because of the angle) and hit the caliper ( Aluminum vs Steel.. steel wins every time )
Third I tried the extraction bit ( I just couldn't wait to use the set I bought from Harbor Freight .... Well that was a bad move .... The bit shattered like it was made of glass ... I had been warned in prior instances, that this is a risky move because of exactly what happened... Yes, Tom I learned my lesson forever! Now, I am left with part of a hardened steel shank embedded in the head of the allen head screw
Fourth After trying to pull out the bits and pieces of the extractor, I then attempted with a Dremel to put a nice cut across the bolt head so I could later try to turn the head with a flat blade screw driver.. That seemed to allow me, to try an new idea... I got to thinking how well the impact hammer worked on the ridiculously small screws that hold on the rotors, that were almost stripped and it got those suckers out, why not try it here ... Well after numerous attempts... That failed as well ... Luckily the screw head didn't break off, it just didn't turn I think the main reason for failure there was again, do to the angle
The last and final possibility is to try and turn the screw with a large flat blade screw drive that has a square shaft and at the same time have someone with a wrench on the screw driver turn the wrench holding the screw drive while I am pushing the screw drive in with all the effort I can muster ... My guess is that either the screw will turn or part of the head will come off the screw ...
At this point I am wondering if the risk is really worth the reward ..i.e. I am pretty much totally screwed if the head rips off as I really don't know how I would drill it out and then have to put in a thread insert .......
So the final score is ...
Ed gets his *** kicked
Here is the score card .... Not good
First, I tried the torx bit ... There was no way to really do it because of the angle that was available.
Second I tried the chisel method but after 4 smacks one of which glanced off ( because of the angle) and hit the caliper ( Aluminum vs Steel.. steel wins every time )
Third I tried the extraction bit ( I just couldn't wait to use the set I bought from Harbor Freight .... Well that was a bad move .... The bit shattered like it was made of glass ... I had been warned in prior instances, that this is a risky move because of exactly what happened... Yes, Tom I learned my lesson forever! Now, I am left with part of a hardened steel shank embedded in the head of the allen head screw
Fourth After trying to pull out the bits and pieces of the extractor, I then attempted with a Dremel to put a nice cut across the bolt head so I could later try to turn the head with a flat blade screw driver.. That seemed to allow me, to try an new idea... I got to thinking how well the impact hammer worked on the ridiculously small screws that hold on the rotors, that were almost stripped and it got those suckers out, why not try it here ... Well after numerous attempts... That failed as well ... Luckily the screw head didn't break off, it just didn't turn I think the main reason for failure there was again, do to the angle
The last and final possibility is to try and turn the screw with a large flat blade screw drive that has a square shaft and at the same time have someone with a wrench on the screw driver turn the wrench holding the screw drive while I am pushing the screw drive in with all the effort I can muster ... My guess is that either the screw will turn or part of the head will come off the screw ...
At this point I am wondering if the risk is really worth the reward ..i.e. I am pretty much totally screwed if the head rips off as I really don't know how I would drill it out and then have to put in a thread insert .......
So the final score is ...
Ed gets his *** kicked
03-23-2010, 12:44 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dude you cant give up haha.
What I would try (although I've never had to do this before):
Soak the bolt head area with wd40, securely fix caliper in large vise, heat the **** out of it. Get your chisel/sharp *** piece of tool steel and try your best to land a really good hit on the bolt. If it doesn't work then try the zoo animal's welding skills haha.
Good luck dude.
What I would try (although I've never had to do this before):
Soak the bolt head area with wd40, securely fix caliper in large vise, heat the **** out of it. Get your chisel/sharp *** piece of tool steel and try your best to land a really good hit on the bolt. If it doesn't work then try the zoo animal's welding skills haha.
Good luck dude.
I used WD40 amd PB Blaster at least 20 times over the past 3 days ..
I am
03-23-2010, 12:56 AM
#26
Drifting
How sharp was your chisel, and how hard. Ive gotten bolts out with a ground piece of tool steel, almost all bolts are softer than tool steel so its tough for it to glance off and miss.
I assume you had it in a vise?
I assume you had it in a vise?
03-23-2010, 01:20 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I got a decent slot in the head but I don't think its going to survive the twist
This freakin' this is welded in there
Regards
Ed
ps I will probably have at least 4 other bolts to try it on, if I continue this tomfoolery
03-23-2010, 01:57 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Well, perhaps we can "mask" off the surrounding area by drilling a hole that size in a piece of copper, then weld a bolt to it. I have some copper we can use for that. Want to bring it over?
And, BTW, extractors are pure evil, for exactly that reason.
And, BTW, extractors are pure evil, for exactly that reason.
03-23-2010, 02:06 AM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes You are quite correct !! Edfoolerly it is
As for the welding I think I better just cut my losses and either paint them myself or just powder coat them it the end plates on ... Its not like its just one screw ...
I will bet that at least four are going to strip....
Thanks Tom ...
Regards
Ed
As for the welding I think I better just cut my losses and either paint them myself or just powder coat them it the end plates on ... Its not like its just one screw ...
I will bet that at least four are going to strip....
Thanks Tom ...
Regards
Ed