Rich Idle and cruise. And a TIAL warning ;-)
#16
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If your car is running fine now that you have the vacuum line hooked up then your wastegate is setup correctly!
Check out this link if you need to understand how a wastegate works: http://www.quartermile.ws/forum/inde...=7456.msg76942
Check out this link if you need to understand how a wastegate works: http://www.quartermile.ws/forum/inde...=7456.msg76942
Yes the boost pressure is perfect now just like it should be on spring value
Last edited by Adonay; 03-06-2010 at 07:55 AM.
#17
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No hoses = lotsa pressure, more than you want!
#18
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I will maybe have to solder in that piggyback soon was hoping that i could have a perfect idle first though. John can you confirm the tial thing if it needs boost line to open on a 951? I know it will dont ask for my digital boost read "i thought it was broken"..
FQS are the microswiches on the PCB chip right?
FQS are the microswiches on the PCB chip right?
The FQS is a 8 position rotary switch on the side of the DME. It is not the micro switches your refer to. I suggest you read the instructions and the documents I sent you before going any further.
#19
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A Tial 'properly installed' requires a vac/pressure hose run to the lower port for it to open at the spring pressure. You add the ability to raise the opening pressure to a setting above spring pressure by adding a boost signal to the top port. With a n adjustable boost controller you cannot get the wastegate to open at a setting below the spring pressure – only at or above the spring pressure.
No hoses = lotsa pressure, more than you want!
No hoses = lotsa pressure, more than you want!
Yes yo need a boost line to the WG to OPEN it. There is a proper way to connect the lines to the WG. Contact your vendor for information.
The FQS is a 8 position rotary switch on the side of the DME. It is not the micro switches your refer to. I suggest you read the instructions and the documents I sent you before going any further.
The FQS is a 8 position rotary switch on the side of the DME. It is not the micro switches your refer to. I suggest you read the instructions and the documents I sent you before going any further.
John Read your mailbox..
#20
Burning Brakes
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I don't remember what the factory wastegate looked like in there, but I remember when I hooked up my Tial there was something backwards about it. I looked back and forth between the diagram and the bottom of the car a ton of times. If you don't have it, the installation diagram for the Tial 38mm is
Last edited by odb812; 03-07-2010 at 01:23 AM. Reason: fixed image
#21
wow that is sketchy ... by looking at the valve and seat i would logicly hook that up backwards if i didn't have the schematic.assuming it had a regular piston or diapram ...no help that the KKK is the oppsite way
This why i would always activate it on the bench first that would sort it out ..
This why i would always activate it on the bench first that would sort it out ..
#22
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On the Tial the piston moves into the body of the wastegate. This side needs to be on the "pressurized" side of the exhaust. On the OEM gate, the piston moves out of the body, therefore the opposite flange is on the pressurized side and the piston goes on the "atmospheric" side.
#24
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Seems i was lucky i boosted like that for 2 days not for very long but small jolts ..
I don't remember what the factory wastegate looked like in there, but I remember when I hooked up my Tial there was something backwards about it. I looked back and forth between the diagram and the bottom of the car a ton of times. If you don't have it, the installation diagram for the Tial 38mm is
I was told that if you want the tial to work with out vacuum on a 951 u need to change\weld the exhaust different . I dont know how true that is though.
#25
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Played with FQS and sensors "again" today. My engine temp sensor is 100% working as it had about 300 ohms resistance when checked and got more and more resistance the colder the engine got by going up 1 ohm at the time. I gave the car 5% less fuel and it fixed my idle and stop issues car would get close to 14,7:1 . But running extremely lean at 13.2 Flat on the woot map decided to go back to normal mixture for now. with 12,5:1 and mid elevens at idle and cruise but near perfect woot map at 11,7:1.
Now for the O2 sensor how does your cars behave with a broken Lambda "02sensor". I think that both the ones i have tested are broken . As the afr does not seem to ajust\change very much it far to stable and linear if you ask me. If i unplug the O2 sensor i will have a IDLE at 13,2:1 before it brakes again back to 12,5:1 after woot. Car stalls after hard acceleration and requires restart if going to a full stop. When O2 sensor is not working should the AFR be as rich as mid 11 and 12,5 on IDLE ? Anyone knows . I will replace the thing with a new Bosch sensor tomorrow though .
Now for the O2 sensor how does your cars behave with a broken Lambda "02sensor". I think that both the ones i have tested are broken . As the afr does not seem to ajust\change very much it far to stable and linear if you ask me. If i unplug the O2 sensor i will have a IDLE at 13,2:1 before it brakes again back to 12,5:1 after woot. Car stalls after hard acceleration and requires restart if going to a full stop. When O2 sensor is not working should the AFR be as rich as mid 11 and 12,5 on IDLE ? Anyone knows . I will replace the thing with a new Bosch sensor tomorrow though .